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Modified JK Tech Tech related bulletin board forum regarding subjects such as suspension, tires & wheels, steering, bumpers, skid plates, drive train, cages, on-board air and other useful modifications that will help improve the performance and protection of your Jeep JK Wrangler (Rubicon, Sahara, Unlimited and X) on the trail.

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On board air recommendation

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Old 10-15-2017, 03:38 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by jchappies
Not a fan of installing a compressor in the engine bay. They have an operating temp. and putting them in the engine bay pre-heats them before you even use it and IMO wears them out faster. I know companies make mounts for them but it doesn't mean you should mount it there. I emailed ARB and they don't even recommend you mount in the engine compartment. They do sell a breather relocation kit to help bring in cooler air in case you do though.
I have an ARB now as a backup with 1gal tank that's mounted in the back of the JK with my 10lbs CO2 tank as my primary way to fill up.
The smittybilts work but I've gone through 2 of them and won't buy another which is why I have the ARB now.
Interesting hearing you say this now chappies. That's exactly what I outlined in our previous discussion of how the engine bay is one of the worst places to put any electronics when you mentioned the mounting location of my compressors didn't seem like a good one.

Originally Posted by Rednroll
Let's also keep in mind, that the engine bay where you mounted your compressor is not immune to water. If anything the engine bay may be the worst environment to put any kind of aftermarket electronics, since it not only gets exposed to water but you also add high temp heat to the mix as well. The only thing you really avoided with that mounting location over mine, is you raised your submersion water level of the compressor while adding heat and other inconveniences I decided I would like to avoid.
You're 100% correct in that the heat from the engine bay wears out the electronics faster. Automotive OEM accelerated life cycle durability validation tests are based upon raising the electronic's operating environment temperature, in addition to raising the humidity level at the same time. Both high temps and high RH levels are present within the engine bay. These types of tests have been in place in the Automotive industry for many years where you can run a 6 month test exposing the electronic part to elevated temps, with a 50% relative humidity level to simulate 5,10, and 15 year life cycle expectancies of electronic equipment. Those tests are what provides the OEMs the comfort levels behind their 5 and 10 year bumper to bumper warranty coverages on their vehicles. It's good to hear ARB realizes this as well, since the larger companies I work with and have conducted testing for such as Toyota, FCA, BMW, Mercedes,GM, and Ford have known about this for many years as well. I've seen those OEM parts after they've gone through those types of tests and analyzed any failures that occurred during development cycles. Yes, they come back looking very old and worn out and look like a 10 year old part after only 6 months of testing.

Now you know the reasons why I don't think the location I chose for mounting my compressors may not be the best location, but I feel pretty confident it's a better location than the engine bay that many choose to use for their compressor mounting location. Now that you're hearing it from ARB, some on the Jeep forums may actually start to believe it since obviously ARB has a lot more smarter engineers with more experience, than companies with many more resources and deeper pockets like Toyota, Ford, GM, BMW, etc and their entire supply chain of suppliers.

Last edited by Rednroll; 10-15-2017 at 04:06 AM.
Old 10-15-2017, 01:48 PM
  #22  
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good small compressor - I have MV50. Had it for close to 10 years now... bought it when they ran on clearance for $25 Now I bought a second one for $45 (here's a link to it for reference) https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/s...r/mv50/4683305 )

It's a great little compressor - it fills up 35's fairly quickly and the value for $ is great.
Old 10-16-2017, 06:33 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Rednroll
I never really understood the desire to be running air tools on the trail. Yeah, it's kind of "cool" and might get the job done quicker but my bag of hand tools work just as well and I never have to worry about running hoses, running out of air, or the compressor needing to take a break where I'm now sitting there with a worthless tool that doesn't work without air. What did offroad enthusiasts ever do to fix something on the trail before air tools and tools with rechargeable batteries existed? Oh yeah, they pulled out a set of wrenches and got to work and used a little elbow grease instead. I just make sure I pack a little elbow grease, maybe there's Jeepers out there that don't own any.
This is no different than working in your garage. When given the choice, would you prefer to work with air tools or hand tools? Can you accomplish the same task with hand tools? Sure. Is it easier with air tools? Yep, almost always. So, for someone who might have CO2 for air, then it's just an added benefit, and really not much extra to pack in regards to tools when heading out.

I would add that I've also seen CO2 be able to reset a bead on a tire on the trail without having to pull the wheel off for more creative methods like the lighter fluid trick. An air compressor would never have been able to get air fast enough to reset that bead.

I totally get your opinion about the price of these things, and I have no problem with it at all. You've come up with a solution that seems to work great for you with some work and ingenuity. I don't look at having paid $465 for the dual arb compressor as money that was thrown away. It's an asset that has resale value. When I'm done with it, if I can turn around and sell it for $275 or $300, would it have been worth $165 - $190 to me.....heck yes. I use that thing a lot, and I have no doubt that it will last a long time....not to mention it's small enough to tuck under my passenger seat and be protected from the elements.
Old 10-16-2017, 11:50 AM
  #24  
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I have been using a knock off Harbor Freight portable for 7 years now. I air up 37's from 15-35 about once a month after wheeling. I mounted it to a small board with an old pc cooling fan. Cheap and has never let me down. I got made fun of by the guys with the high dollar on board systems, but my wallet always wins.
Old 10-16-2017, 10:54 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by resharp001
This is no different than working in your garage. When given the choice, would you prefer to work with air tools or hand tools? Can you accomplish the same task with hand tools? Sure. Is it easier with air tools? Yep, almost always. So, for someone who might have CO2 for air, then it's just an added benefit, and really not much extra to pack in regards to tools when heading out.

I would add that I've also seen CO2 be able to reset a bead on a tire on the trail without having to pull the wheel off for more creative methods like the lighter fluid trick. An air compressor would never have been able to get air fast enough to reset that bead.

I totally get your opinion about the price of these things, and I have no problem with it at all. You've come up with a solution that seems to work great for you with some work and ingenuity. I don't look at having paid $465 for the dual arb compressor as money that was thrown away. It's an asset that has resale value. When I'm done with it, if I can turn around and sell it for $275 or $300, would it have been worth $165 - $190 to me.....heck yes. I use that thing a lot, and I have no doubt that it will last a long time....not to mention it's small enough to tuck under my passenger seat and be protected from the elements.
My point was meant to be more towards mounting inside the engine bay, like many do with the ARBs. Someone spends that much money on a compressor and the engine bay is shortening its life much more rapidly. I'm sure the ARBs are great, I have nothing against them or their price. Customer service through providing replacements? That game has been played by many companies by overcharging up front prices (ie Snap-on). It's the same business model as insurance policies, applied to the products we purchase and I know how much everyone enjoys paying for insurance. Overall, I just don't think it's a great idea to put one inside the engine bay is alls I'm saying, especially when you're paying a higher price for it, such is the case with the ARB compressors. Like I mentioned, OEM accelerated aging tests are done by raising the temp and raising the RH (air moisture level) and the engine bay has plenty of both. Like I mentioned, the engine bay is the worst area to mount ANY aftermarket electronic device. That includes devices like the SPOD as well. Along with the elevated heat and moisture levels, you also need to be concerned with potential exposure to liquids that can also be present such as coolant, oil, gas, battery acid and brake fluid which are running throughout that engine bay. It would kind of suck having a radiator hose leak, which can be repaired for $30, only to find out that coolant that was spraying all over corroded and destroyed a $300-$500 air compressor.

In regards to my opinion on air tools in the Jeep. The difference between the tools in my garage and the tools in my Jeep, are that the tools in my garage are for planned projects and repairs. So yeah, I have air tools and electric tools in my garage. The tools in my Jeep are there for "just in case" emergency situation repairs. So I don't really feel your analogy applies. In reality if that just in case situation happens, where I needed to re-mount a tire, then I rather use the lighter fluid trick on the trail since I will likely not need it, but I can deal with some minor inconveniences for the 1% of the time I do need it, if it means I'm reducing the inconveniences the other 99% of the time when I don't need it. For example, Lighter fluid and a lighter takes up a lot less space and can fit in my tool box. An air tank, hoses and all the various attachments don't. I rather not deal with the inconveniences of making sure I have CO2 before heading on the trail, the space taken up by air tools with the hoses and tank, making sure I have batteries packed up and charged. I don't go out on the trails, and decide "Hey, I think I'll install a new bumper while I'm out here and replace my shocks while I'm at it." I feel the air tools cause more inconveniences 99% of the time, than the benefit of the convenience they provide the other 1% of the time for the emergency repair situation.

Last edited by Rednroll; 10-17-2017 at 07:47 AM.
Old 10-29-2017, 09:28 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by MikeOK
I have the ARB twin. I can air up a 33 from 14 psi to 34 psi in about 90 seconds. Plus it’s 100% duty cycle so no waiting for it to cool between tires. If I had it to do over I would get the single. Much cheaper and still pretty fast. Mine is mounted under the passenger seat. The only drawback is by the time I bought the mounting bracket and the hose, etc I have sunk over $700 for it all.
Originally Posted by ragnarok_jku
I've got the ARB High Output kit from Northridge and love it. Use it for airing up my 35's and for my ARB locker as well.
My experience with the single piston ARB high output is not the best. It takes about 4-5 minutes per 37 inch tire to air up from 8 psi to 26psi. I am usually the last to leave the air up area after a run. I just thought people should know that the air fills are slow. Forget running any air tools.

My plans are to upgrade to an ARB twin compressor with a power tank in the rear compartment to air my tires, leaving the single high output for just the lockers.
Old 10-29-2017, 01:56 PM
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Originally Posted by NevadaZielmeister
My experience with the single piston ARB high output is not the best. It takes about 4-5 minutes per 37 inch tire to air up from 8 psi to 26psi. I am usually the last to leave the air up area after a run. I just thought people should know that the air fills are slow. Forget running any air tools.

My plans are to upgrade to an ARB twin compressor with a power tank in the rear compartment to air my tires, leaving the single high output for just the lockers.
Agree with you on the single and 37’s. I’ve got 35’s now and it’s not too bad airing them up. I’ll be moving up to 37’s here shortly and plan on upgrading to an ARB twin sometime soon after. I like the idea of dedicating the single to the lockers.
Old 10-30-2017, 07:47 PM
  #28  
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This is the kit I've got. ----> Constant Duty OBA | VIAIR Corporation

They come pretty basic, you will need to buy extra stuff to do a clean install. Line, fitting and such.

My tank is mounted on the passenger side roll cage, and the compressor is in the engine compartment mounted on a Synergy bracket. ----> SYNERGY MANUFACTURING :: Body & Exterior :: Synergy Jeep JK Onboard Air Compressor Bracket

Pressure gauge and switch are mounted to the driver side of the steering wheel. Pressure switch is mounted under the steering wheel.

I've had it this way for over three years now, and have no issues. Air down every time I hit the trail.
Old 12-19-2017, 12:55 PM
  #29  
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I opted for a Viair unit with 100% duty cycle. It's very quiet and relatively low current draw. I mounted on a used tank I got from a pawn shop. It is connected up to a 30 amp circuit I brought from the battery back to the rear via quick disconnects. Works slick. Is easy to transfer from one rig to the next.
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