Got my 35s installed and noticed I have to apply the brakes a little harder to stop, go figure. It's time to redo them anyway because the pedal pulses a little so the rotors are probably warped, noticed the steering wheel has a little shimmy when they are applied too.
Do you have any suggestions, better rotors & better pads? Is there a brake setup that you have used that isn't too expensive?

Thanks

 

When I had my 2012 Jku I installed hawk ceramic brake pads. It was the first time in my life when I said wow, those pads really stop better than the old pads. I was very happy with the improved stopping power. However, they did generate tons of brake dust.

 

https://www.quadratec.com/products/56215_4113_07.htm

the power stop kit on quadratec has good reviews. I plan on putting a set on my Jeep soon.

 

I've had factory, hawk, Wagner oex, z36 powerstop, and now Raybestos. Opinions are like you know what and we've all got them. I feel like the z36 had really good bite to them but I wanted to be sure I wasn't missing out with the Raybestos. I don't have their rotors, just the pads though and the z36 seemed to work well. If you're just starting down this rabbit hole, maybe look into the Crown BBK and go from there.

 

I'm not looking for anything too elaborate, just being able to stop reliably. Being that I suspect my rotors are warped and not sure if there is enough meat on there so they can be turned, I was looking for options.
If the rotors can be turned, are there brake pads out there that make a difference?

 

Hey Reddout - I did a brake check when my Jeep was off the road for the engine conversion. I put metallic pads on no name brand from the local parts store. Now they work fantastic but I must add that that LT Chev engine with the cylinder disable (now turned off) has little vacuum so Chev put an oil lubricated vacuum pump driven by the engine and those brakes haul me down from 70mph like a good car system. But one other thing I have come across is it still has the flywheel effect in low range off road and one has to push harder to stop because the auto wants to push me along in that slow / low range with the bigger engine and torque converter. That alone would justify me putting more clamping force on the system. Wish there was a larger piston caliper to put on the system not so much a larger diameter disc.

 

I did the Crown BBK kit Karl mentioned above. I got it for $350 off ebay but I think it's really hard to find that price now. Dual piston calipers, new caliper brackets, and 13" rotors. With '12+ you can get by without replacing the MC, but with your '10 you'd probably be looking at the Teraflex MC with the factory brake booster. I cannot suggest the Mopar or Crown MC and booster combo myself.

 

I don't know why anyone would turn rotors rather just buy new ones.

 

Pretty common practice if they are still good and could get them turned for around $15.

 

Thats like saying “why rotate your tires when you can just get brand new ones”.

If normal maintenance can be done within spec and it’s a fraction of the price of new, I’ll turn rotors every time.