Changing to adjustable lower front control arms
10-04-2017, 11:42 PM
#51
JK Enthusiast
Thread Starter
That's just a question, or are you now saying that you do have cam bolts? If so, you will probably want to order an eliminator kit prior to installing the adj arms.
Assuming cams have not been installed : when the bolts are removed, there should be square holes in the brackets. As part of cam bolt installation, those holes get enlarged, notched out along a perforated section. At that point, the cam bolts can be adjusted along that slot to raise/lower caster.
4.2* (+/- a bit) is the caster spec from the factory. After a lift, it is fairly common to run higher caster for better steering, anywhere from 4.5 up to 6* or so. But as was mentioned several times, higher caster = lower pinion. Lower pinion = more likelihood of driveline vibes, which gets worse the higher you go. (But if you think about it, since you have been running at a bit over 3* and say it's better than stock handling, I'd guess that raising it just to the stock 4.2 would be fine.)
Also, if you set it higher than stock and then go for an alignment, be sure and tell them so they don't drop it back to stock.
Assuming cams have not been installed : when the bolts are removed, there should be square holes in the brackets. As part of cam bolt installation, those holes get enlarged, notched out along a perforated section. At that point, the cam bolts can be adjusted along that slot to raise/lower caster.
4.2* (+/- a bit) is the caster spec from the factory. After a lift, it is fairly common to run higher caster for better steering, anywhere from 4.5 up to 6* or so. But as was mentioned several times, higher caster = lower pinion. Lower pinion = more likelihood of driveline vibes, which gets worse the higher you go. (But if you think about it, since you have been running at a bit over 3* and say it's better than stock handling, I'd guess that raising it just to the stock 4.2 would be fine.)
Also, if you set it higher than stock and then go for an alignment, be sure and tell them so they don't drop it back to stock.
Last edited by MikeOK; 10-04-2017 at 11:48 PM.
10-05-2017, 08:00 AM
#52
JK Enthusiast
Thread Starter
I talked to the owner of Sam’s in Tulsa and he’s going to mount my new arms and adjust my caster and do a complete alignment for $150. He said it would cost the same regardless of if I installed them or not. That’s a little better than the $400 the dealer quoted me. By the way, he said if I installed them myself to set them at the minimum length which is just 1/16” longer than stock. I know this guy knows his stuff so I’m taking it over there Monday and let them do the whole job. At least I know now how it all works. Thanks guys! Maybe another greenhorn will find this thread helpful in the future when they do a search.
Last edited by MikeOK; 10-05-2017 at 08:08 AM.
10-05-2017, 08:18 AM
#53
JK Jedi
Wow, I missed a boat load of comments in this thread! Well, glad it finally clicked at least.
I would only say that caster isn't an exact science. There is a wide range of acceptable values in which you would be happy. You're talking about 4 bolts. Could easily set the arms as Sam's guy is telling you, torque down the 4 bolts yourself and save the $150, but I get it too if you just want them to do it and be done.
I would only say that caster isn't an exact science. There is a wide range of acceptable values in which you would be happy. You're talking about 4 bolts. Could easily set the arms as Sam's guy is telling you, torque down the 4 bolts yourself and save the $150, but I get it too if you just want them to do it and be done.
10-05-2017, 08:53 AM
#54
JK Enthusiast
Thread Starter
The 150 included a complete alignment, caster, camber, toe, etc. so they are going to mount and adjust my arms for 70 bucks, I figured that was a pretty good deal since the dealer was going to charge me 400 and they just set toe and center the steering wheel. Plus I don’t know for sure that nothing else is bent. I still question the looks of that tie rod. And I’m not sure I’m up for another 6 page thread to learn how to change that myself lol.
10-05-2017, 09:05 AM
#55
JK Jedi
TR replacement is an easy 2 bolt thing.....but, usually alignment after that is suggested to get toe set right. I might be the only one that has never had luck with an "at home" alignment in regards to toe. If your TR isn't bent and you upgrade it, it's easy as you just need to match the new one up to the same length; however, if your factory TR is bent that makes it harder.
10-05-2017, 09:22 AM
#56
Super Moderator
TR replacement is an easy 2 bolt thing.....but, usually alignment after that is suggested to get toe set right. I might be the only one that has never had luck with an "at home" alignment in regards to toe. If your TR isn't bent and you upgrade it, it's easy as you just need to match the new one up to the same length; however, if your factory TR is bent that makes it harder.
When I replaced my TR, I attempted to match the replacement up with stock length. My alignment guy told me I did a pretty good job, "better than the majority of DIY lifted Jeeps with tie rod and drag link replacements he's seen" were his actual comments.
It seemed to ride ok when I was taking it to the shop, but here was what the toe showed for the actual measurements before alignment. So I'm there with you on that front.
He did a little better than me with all that fancy equipment and know how.
Last edited by Rednroll; 10-05-2017 at 09:28 AM.
10-05-2017, 09:46 AM
#57
Former Vendor
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Good plan and a great price. It would be cool to hang out at Sam's and watch if they'll let you. That way you can see how everything comes together and apply what you learned here to an actual visual as it happens. 
10-05-2017, 10:41 AM
#58
JK Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Their normal labor charge is $85 an hour. Good Lord! I had a little trouble figuring out how to wire my air compressor so I called them asking what they would charge me and they said 3 hours at $85 per. Instead I got on here and asked a bunch of silly questions (like in this thread) and it was easy with the right knowledge. On my motocross forum I can actually answer more questions than I ask, here it’s the opposite but I’ll get there.
10-06-2017, 05:20 AM
#60
Former Vendor
Hi guys, thanks for the opinions and the video. I liked the RK’s because they have a bend in them to give you more clearance. My friend recommended the TF Alpines, but they are not high clearance. Both are about the same price. Both I think would be an improvement over stock. I’ll post pics below. By the way, I called the dealer and they want $425 to install and align. Forget that, I’ll definitely do it myself especially after you guys’ giving me info.
RK
Attachment 675240
TF
Attachment 675241
RK
Attachment 675240
TF
Attachment 675241
We are not sure where all of this "bad joint" info is coming from to be honest. We are not seeing the issue in house nor are our dealers/wholesalers. If you actually look at "unique" posts and instances on any forum or fb group over a years time we can tell you for 100% certainty that the number is extremely low. But don't take our word for it. Call main stream dealers and wholesalers who carry and move a lot of products from a lot of manufacturers and ask them. That is indeed one tool we use for determining where we are in the industry as far as warranty/customer issues etc. We are constantly at the bottom of warranty claims on joints and other parts and components. It is extremely important to us as a manufacturer that we keep track of this vital information. On the internet people can say and do really whatever they would like to do with little to no consequences. However, poll the professionals that do this everyday for a living and they will tell you to real answers... We are sure you can find some issues over an 11 year period of JK products being produced, but look at the unique number - not the he said / she said or our "fan boy" stuff. Our number one service part is RK00882 which is the old style control arm bushing that was in service from 2002 - 2014. The new style Pro Flex Joints and Pro Krawler Joints are extremely low. Any issue we may have had with them has been posted on line, but for the most part most warranty claims were due to consumers using the incorrect lubrication methods.
When it comes to selecting control arms - get arms that meet your needs.
If Jam Nuts are a point of concern for you, then certainly stay away from them if you feel they are something you cannot tighten properly. That will eliminate 90% of the companies out there for you though. Jam Nuts are a tried and true method of locking joints in place that meet SAE standards which is important to companies like us. If you want to gain access to them in the vehicle simply trim back the mounts like BDS recommends. But we do know they are not for everyone. If you are looking for arms that do not use Jam Nuts, we would recommend welded ends on both ends for the lowers and get some form of adjustable upper arms.
If you plan on being a weekend warrior we recommend arms with construction similar to ours. A spherical style joint at the axle to take the majority of the misalignment demands required from off-road demands and a robust bushing style joint at the frame connection to provide a nice ride.
If you plan on being a hard core wheeler then get some arms with spherical style joints on both ends to take the abuse and provide the utmost in off-road ability.
If you are just looking for a basic arm to reset caster and make corrections for the lift to improve drivability then basic arms with OEM style bushings will suffice. But, as your off-road habits increase you will quickly find the limits of the OEM style bushings.
RK
Last edited by Rock Krawler Suspension; 10-06-2017 at 06:00 AM.