Changing to adjustable lower front control arms
#61
Former Vendor
RK
#62
JK Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Rock Krawler- it’s too late for the LCA’s, I already got the TFs. But I have a few questions. I’ll probably put 35”s on when these 33”s wear out, so I’ll probably beef everything up then.
-Do you make heavy duty tie rods? And drag links?
-I see you have a lifetime warranty, does that cover trail damage?
-Is there anywhere I can buy your products that have a discount code like northridge’s JKFORUM code?
-Do you make heavy duty tie rods? And drag links?
-I see you have a lifetime warranty, does that cover trail damage?
-Is there anywhere I can buy your products that have a discount code like northridge’s JKFORUM code?
#63
Former Vendor
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 563
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Rock Krawler- it’s too late for the LCA’s, I already got the TFs. But I have a few questions. I’ll probably put 35”s on when these 33”s wear out, so I’ll probably beef everything up then.
-Do you make heavy duty tie rods? And drag links?
-I see you have a lifetime warranty, does that cover trail damage?
-Is there anywhere I can buy your products that have a discount code like northridge’s JKFORUM code?
-Do you make heavy duty tie rods? And drag links?
-I see you have a lifetime warranty, does that cover trail damage?
-Is there anywhere I can buy your products that have a discount code like northridge’s JKFORUM code?
JK Off Road Pro Tie Rod
JK High Steer Upgrade
Northridge is an RK dealer, so their code you mentioned will work on RK parts.
We are also an RK dealer and you can find us online at River City Offroad - The Wheelin Man's Friend. The forum discount code for our store is JKFORUM and we are a full line RK dealer including custom orders for stretches, pieces of systems, ect.
Here's their full warranty disclosure (link below). I can tell you that I've seen Jeremy and his crew send replacement parts to people who had damaged parts from the result of auto accidents, trail damage, ect. They do put customer service first and will always ask for photos or broken parts back so that they can adjust and improve if necessary.
Rock Krawler Suspension
Marcus
#64
JK Enthusiast
Thread Starter
The other day I didn’t actually measure my toe I just trial and errored it and it improved so I left it at that. I got bored this morning so I went out and measured it and it was 1/2” toe in! I got it down to just a hair over 1/8 and test drove it and it drove great. So I cancelled with Sam’s and my new arms are here so tonight I’m changing them. So you guys’ help was not in vain after all.
#65
JK Jedi
Best of luck to you. Don't forget....you're gonna have to skooch the axle forward a bit to get the axle's LCA brackets to line up with your now longer control arms. Floor jack under the diff should get you there....just jack it a bit till the holes line up. If you ever need to go the other direction, floor jack goes under the pinion.
#66
JK Enthusiast
Thread Starter
I got them on. Man, those bolts were tight! My harbor freight impact wouldn’t budge them, had to borrow an air impact. I set my toe, and set my caster with my iPhone to just a little under 5*. Took it to the shop this morning for an alignment and they only had to slightly adjust the toe. They showed my caster to be 4.5* so they didn’t have to touch it. By the way, I read several places that said to set the ca’s at 23”- 23 1/8”, Sam’s told me to set them at minimum which is 22 3/4”. They were right, 23” would have been too much.
Tie rod is next. How hard will that be to change myself?
Tie rod is next. How hard will that be to change myself?
#67
JK Jedi
I got them on. Man, those bolts were tight! My harbor freight impact wouldn’t budge them, had to borrow an air impact. I set my toe, and set my caster with my iPhone to just a little under 5*. Took it to the shop this morning for an alignment and they only had to slightly adjust the toe. They showed my caster to be 4.5* so they didn’t have to touch it. By the way, I read several places that said to set the ca’s at 23”- 23 1/8”, Sam’s told me to set them at minimum which is 22 3/4”. They were right, 23” would have been too much.
Tie rod is next. How hard will that be to change myself?
Tie rod is next. How hard will that be to change myself?
Do you have a flipped drag link? If so, you don't have to remove anything to swap out the TR. It's just two castle nuts on the knuckles. "IF" the factory TR is not bent, you should be able to remove it with tires on the ground, don't touch anything, install one side of the new TR, and then adjust the other side so that the stud slides perfectly in to the other knuckle. This should keep your toe right about the same as previous. Now, the big thing on that is the "IF" your factory TR is not bent. If it is bent at all, you're gonna be looking at a different length for the new TR.
If you don't have a flipped DL (flipped to the top of the knuckle), I'm thinking you might have to remove the DL on the knuckle side to have room to remove the TR castle nut on the passenger side......but can't recall as it's been a long time.