choosing a 3.5" lift AEV or Metalcloak?
#31
JK Jedi
When you raise the drag link you also have to raise the track bar bracket on the axle to keep them as parallel as you can. You get some pretty bad bump steer if you don't.
#32
JK Jedi Master
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Austin <--> Colorado Springs
Posts: 11,465
Likes: 0
Received 162 Likes
on
154 Posts
Just noticed that quadratec has a tech article section, this may help a bit. Ignore the first pic, it's for a TJ.
https://www.quadratec.com/jeep_knowl...article-68.htm
https://www.quadratec.com/jeep_knowl...article-68.htm
#33
JK Jedi
Drilling a knuckle is not that big a deal and you can easily go back to stock with a $9 tapered bushing.
https://www.summitracing.com/nv/part...0175/overview/
https://www.summitracing.com/nv/part...0175/overview/
#34
JK Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Just noticed that quadratec has a tech article section, this may help a bit. Ignore the first pic, it's for a TJ.
https://www.quadratec.com/jeep_knowl...article-68.htm
https://www.quadratec.com/jeep_knowl...article-68.htm
i guess I'll just add the Drag Link Flip Bracket from MC to go along with their adj trackbar .. it also repositions the steering stabilizer if i'm not mistaken.
i also think i'll need the steering stabilizer tie rod mount and while i'm at it might as well order a rocksport steering stabilizer to match the rest.
this is adding up fast
#35
JK Jedi Master
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Austin <--> Colorado Springs
Posts: 11,465
Likes: 0
Received 162 Likes
on
154 Posts
The stock stabilizer actually gets favorable reviews. Assuming it is in good shape, you could just relocate it with the bracket until there is a reason to replace.
Keep on top of that 'eventually' as part of normal maintenance. The rear driveshaft will likely be ok, but as mentioned, that particular joint on the front shaft is known to be a problem, so you need know 'when' to do something about it. Much better to replace the joint (teraflex high angle rzeppa is popular) or the shaft (thinner aftermarket replacement) while grease is still slinging out, rather than waiting for it to make noise and seize. Could be a few thousand miles, could be 50k or more, just another of those variables to keep on top of with a quick look every now and then.
Driveshafts will eventually have to be changed, but that's the cost of lifting so high i suppose
#36
JK Jedi
#37
Agreed, I got the rocksport SS to replace the stock SS solely because when I was buying my draglink and tie rod it was the same price to get all 3 together than to get the tie rod and drag link seperately. Plus my stock SS had 140k miles on it and it was getting a little tired
#38
The stock stabilizer actually gets favorable reviews. Assuming it is in good shape, you could just relocate it with the bracket until there is a reason to replace.
Keep on top of that 'eventually' as part of normal maintenance. The rear driveshaft will likely be ok, but as mentioned, that particular joint on the front shaft is known to be a problem, so you need know 'when' to do something about it. Much better to replace the joint (teraflex high angle rzeppa is popular) or the shaft (thinner aftermarket replacement) while grease is still slinging out, rather than waiting for it to make noise and seize. Could be a few thousand miles, could be 50k or more, just another of those variables to keep on top of with a quick look every now and then.
Keep on top of that 'eventually' as part of normal maintenance. The rear driveshaft will likely be ok, but as mentioned, that particular joint on the front shaft is known to be a problem, so you need know 'when' to do something about it. Much better to replace the joint (teraflex high angle rzeppa is popular) or the shaft (thinner aftermarket replacement) while grease is still slinging out, rather than waiting for it to make noise and seize. Could be a few thousand miles, could be 50k or more, just another of those variables to keep on top of with a quick look every now and then.