snakeyes76

so after talking to some retailers and installers, including a friend with a jeep shop I am now leaning towards rock krawler and a frankenlift.
the triple rate coils seem to have great reviews and i was told they are a little softer in ride compared to the AEV which is what the wifey wants
shopping list is as follows
rock krawler 4.5" 2dr springs
Rock Krawler Rear Track Bar and Bracket
JKS front adj track bar
Bilstein 5100s
Crown Performance Extended Front and Rear Brake Lines 3-6
JKS drag link flip kit
JKS J-Flex Adjustable Rear Upper and Front lower Control Arms
i'm leaning towards the JKS control arms due to the rubber bushings on one side of the arms
i may also get the AEV correction brackets to resolve operating angle of the control arms and the shock alignment but can always add them later if deemed necessary

any thoughts/recommendations?

resharp001

Bilstein 5100s are going to go against every thing you're looking for in regards to a soft ride, adn 4.5" RK springs are going to be a big mistake if you ask me. Way too much lift, and the powder coating sucks, so you'll have rust issues were you are. You've gotten good advice above, so not much more I can say. idk why you'd want 4.5" lift (which will probably be more like 5" on a light JK, with 35s for a wife's DD. If you're planning on going that high, you need a full set of arms too.....you're not gonna get by with just a half set.

snakeyes76

understood. typo on the lift it would be 3.5" springs. what shocks would you recommend instead?
if powdercoating on RK springs sucks, then I'm back to square one

anyone used or using the JKS arms?
metalcloak arms are out due to the zinc coating.. apparenlty it flakes in our climate within a couple of years

DEJK2012

run the metal cloak but not with the fox shocks. get the Falcon 3.3s. they are great and can adust them for your driving/riding style

resharp001

The Bilsteins aren't bad per se, in fact, they are a very nice value and a good shock, but they are stiff, stiffer than a lot of people prefer. Fox shocks are about the same. I have Fox 2.0 shocks, and they might be a hair softer than Bilsteins, but not much. I've never used/owned em, but almost every recommendation these days includes Rancho RS9000 adjustable shocks. Cost a little more, but still relatively cheap compared to other adjustable models. I've never used the MC Rocksports either, but supposedly supposed to be more of a factory feel. Although flashy, the Teraflex Falcons seem way to pricey. Kings are great, but way too pricey for most people's use. I'm definitely not saying don't use Bilstein cuz they're junk......just, if you do, don't expect a soft ride

I have RK springs myself. I've had them for maybe 5 years now. Some complain about sag over time. I've not experienced that at all, but I have a skinny bumper on back, and a stubby bumper up front with a winch. If I lived in a winter climate, they wound't be on my jeep at all. I really do think those would be a major headache when I see the things you northern guys have to deal with.

The MC springs are powder coated. If I was making a choice, I’d go with their 2.5” springs which would likely net 3” on a light 2dr. That’s just my opinion though. Did you look at Synergy’s things, both arms and springs? I think for a DD, and for where you’re located, I’d definitely stay focused on arms that have a bushing style joint, mainly due to the winter issues again. You really might just do some control arm brackets to start with tbh. You can always move to arms later.

My Jeep is a Frankenlift. Definitely nothing wrong with that route in general. I wouldn't discourage it at all, you just have to know what you need to address, but really you should know that information anyhow. Problem most people have is just buying a "kit" and figuring everything they might need is included in the package.

I have JKS quick sway bar disconnects, and that is the extent of my experience with that company. Maybe someone with their arms, springs, or other components can chime in.

My last comment would be in regards to front track bar. I've been through an older Synergy TB (before their new bushings), an RK TB, and I'm on to a MC TB. For that specific application, I'd suggest sticking with a bushing style joint, both ends if possible. That may or may not limit options if you buy in to that idea. That front TB if one of the most important components, and I think the DDM or Durotrak bushing, or similar, is going to hold up the best. I threw in the towel on the RK anti-wobble joint after 3.5 years. My old Synergy TB had the older poly bushing in it which wore out pretty quick, but their new DDM bushings are much better.

Best of luck with the build. I'll let some others chime in.....

DEJK2012

so random question im kinda just picking up here... the metalcloaks coating on the arms and stuff is it bad in the coastal environment? i have their bumpers with the powdercoating and it is breaking down after 3 years down here. wanting to redo my build and have been looking around for a lift and wanted the metalcloak 3.5 also

TheDirtman

I would not put Rock Krawler on a rig if it were free. Their stuff is pushed by venders and the quality and ride is shit. I have installed kits from just about every manufacturer and the last RK (rock runner in 2018) kit I did was the worst I have ever done.For a mainly daily driver on 35's you are going to be hard pressed to beat the metal cloak 2.5" lift. 2.5" is plenty of height for 35's while maintaining less axle shift and better driveline angles at ride height. You also will not need high steer which will save you some money. Use some front lower adjustable arms or some drop brackets for caster correction. At 3.5" (really 4"-4.5) you are going to be looking at a full set of arms and a drag link flip, driveshafts, brake lines, etc. Realistically figure around $2500-$3k more for a 3.5" lift kit when you are all said and done.
JKS make good arms but in your area keeping your rig clean and using some protectant on them during the winter months will be needed on any arm out there. I have never seen anything about the zinc plating flaking off a metal cloak arm. Do you have any photos or links to threads on this? It would be good info to confirm vs rumors on the internet. Metal cloak and synergy joints design make them better able to handle corrosion vs a ball and socket joint. AEV is a solid kit but pricey for what you actually get in the kit as far as components.

resharp001

Being in Texas, I hardly ever think about winter environments, but as OP mentioned the zinc coating coming off with extreme conditions up north, it did make me recall general commentary from Rednroll in Michigan talking about how zinc coated bolts don't hold up when it comes to rust protection, so that would make sense that a zinc coating on MC arms might not be the best thing to leave as/is if living in a winter climate and wanting those products. I'd think that would be completely separate to anything that they have which is powder coated like springs, bumpers, fenders, etc. If I were you, I'd take some pictures and sent them to Matson and ask if they think that should be normal wear for a coastal environment. That may or may not be. They might say anything is going to do that if you live around salt water. Worth asking nicely about it at least.

TheDirtman

This is a good article on how zinc coating protects the base metal.
https://www.sharrettsplating.com/blo...-zinc-plating/

You can paint zinc coated arms but is not fast or cheap for good adhesion. Powder coating is not recommended.

Here is a corrosion protection product you might look at for those harsh conditions. Don't know if it is any easier to paint over zinc or not.
http://www.steel-it.com/applications-2

resharp001

Wouldn't the zinc coating get blasted off during powder coating prep? I've never looked at this issue so don't know, but I would think sandblasting during prep would eliminate that issue.