Sunnysideup

Getting it all hooked up...
Rock krawler arms had a fit with the larger bolts that came with the axle... and the old bolts are too short to fit. Drilled them out!
Spring keeper pretty deep!
You have to remove the axle shafts to get the knuckles bolted up... then carefully slide them back in to not ruin the axle seal.
One side coming together!

Sunnysideup

Other side getting tightened up
The steering stabilzer had to be moved over about 5 inches to be in the right place.
There are small cams... no instructions ... that fit into the lower control arms... they will fit into the square in 4 different ways... messed around with them a bit... don't know if they were right. Used a come-along to pull on one side so the cames would all be lined up the same.
On the test drive... the Clayton track bar hits the cover... not sure if changing the cams will fix this... the clayton hit the other cover too, and so did the stock track bar... so I need to play with that a bit... The mid-arm lift moves the axles out 1 inch... so I might have to grind...
Did not get drive shaft back in yet... but it's ready with all new u-joints. Since all of this is apart may as well fix it up with good stuff. I will do an alignment of the toe-in and such tommorrow and finish the drive shaft.


Painting... sanding... cleaning... and test drive... about 8 hours today!

metalic

[/QUOTE]
<img src="https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=627612"/> On the test drive... the Clayton track bar hits the cover... not sure if changing the cams will fix this... the clayton hit the other cover too, and so did the stock track bar... so I need to play with that a bit... The mid-arm lift moves the axles out 1 inch... so I might have to grind [/QUOTE]

My Rock Krawler bar did the se thing. I switched to a JKS and it barely rubs under flex. A lil additional clearance on the cover fixes that but mine just rubbed and didn't hit.

fredrok

Hey Sunny,

Congrats on your new setup. I just installed my PR44 solo recently so I can appreciate the work involved. It's a bit late now but word to the wise; you never want to let the axle shafts rest in the housing like that as the unsupported weight deforms the seal over a period of time (won't take long) unless you shimmed between the shaft and housing or have sacrificial collars installed mid shaft to support the weight. Did they ship the Core with shafts installed and with collars?

Good luck!

Sunnysideup

The shafts were tied in place with shrink wrap... 10 times around it or so... I had not thought about the seals... I took the plastic off the night before I was installing. I will say the ujoints do not lead themselves towards much doward travel at the C's. In fact the axles shafts would not fit through the knuckles until the ball joints were totally tight. They don't touch once they are in.... but there is very little space around the joints and axle yokes. I did not see any collars, but there were a couple wood shims under the plastic in the c's... I suppose that was to hold them in place in shipping.

I will be sure my old axle has shims too!

Sunnysideup

So right now the Clayton bar is just always in the wrong spot.... So I'm gonna sell it, and move on to a track bar that works.... after looking at a lot of different ones, I decided to go with metalcloak.... I can adjust the "bowed out" area to be over the pumpkin.... which is much larger than the dana 30 pumpkin.....

I need about 1/2 adjustment to center the axle.... right now it is about 1/2 to 3/4 inch out on the drivers side... I can get it in alighment with the clayton which is adjustable, but it hits pretty constant even around town. So I put the stock track bar back on, and it doesn't hit... but I can't get the axle pulled over either... so no road trips until the bar comes in....

My next step is wiring the locker.... I have an "x" that came ordered with the rubicon rear end and sway-bar disconnect.... I was looking around and it has the harrnes and relay for the front locker in the front....

My thought is to use the factory switch to power the front locker? since the relay is just allowing power to flow to the diff when the switch is thrown... to wire to the relay... should work right? I don't know that the indicator light on the dash would work... but I think I should be able to power it... the ected locker has a 10amp fuze in it... 12volt power required... I am going to do a little serch and see if this will work?

fredrok

Activate the front locker from your switch and measure voltage at the activation plug (have to be in 4LO). Should have battery voltage there and you should also have another plug close by for the locker position sensor. That second plug is what keeps the dash light on steady to confirm the locker is engaged. If your wiring/switches are all there as you indicated, when you wire in and activate the locker, your dash light will just blink. You'll need to wire an additional relay, tapped off of the activation wires (in parallel) which then closes contacts on the 2 indication wires. Clear as mud?

Sunnysideup

I see dimly ...but I do see what has to happen for that light to work... it should stop flashing when I power it off as normal... my concern is the computr... is it going to freak out about the process? Doesn't the stock locker have a second unit on the housing to trigger the indicator? if it flashes when engaged... and turns off when not engaged without triggering a fault... that will work for me LOL!

scubatech

Mine flashes all the time now when front locker is engaged. Not a big deal as locker works fine and when disengaged front light goes out as before.

fredrok

If it doesn't bother you to have it flash, then just roll with it. It's easy to keep it from flashing with a relay though.