scubatech

Thanks for the tip Fred.

whisps1

Same here, they've been working out really well for me! Glad I went that route!

Sunnysideup

Update...

Well, had to take a break from working on the Jk because sons truck had tranny problems... garage was full.


Here are a couple of things that happened since install.

First off the track bar I had would not work with the Core 44 housing. It was a Clayton bar, adjustable... but it needs the "bow" in it to not hit the housing. MEtal Cloak track bar works perfect! So add 200 bucks and I hope to recover 100 of that by selling the old track bar.

All else seems to be going fine. There was plenty of room for travel in and out on the driveshaft splines, so front driveshaft works good!

I changed out the yoke to match my driveshaft, but the seal has a small leak... so it might be that the seal needs to be replaced or changed to one that fits better. Not a big job... as Long as the housing uses a standard size... I'm going to measure to be sure.

The coil perch on the drives side contacts the trackbar frame mount upon compression... about 16th of an inch trimmed off stops the contact, my trackbar fram mount is not stock... and is 1/4 inch wider then stock, so a stock one would clear the perch fine.

No odd noises, no vibrations, no issues at this time with the axle!

But I have not wired in the locker yet... its been cold and a truck is parked in my garage! LOL!

Sunnysideup

Well strange enough....

I have an x with the front swaybar disconnect, and a rear rubicon locker.... I have two relays for the lockers ... one for the rear and one for the front.

But apparently they made the harness without any place to plug in the front locker. No splice no plugs? But the wires come out of the relay and run down into the splice point under the battery.

So where do the wires go after that splice? Do they end at the plug next to the radiatior? can they be tapped there and provied the power?

Why plug the wire in at all? Why place the relay there at all? Is there power to it?

I don't know if I can just tap two of the wires going into the relay with the two leads coming from the Acted... to get the power for the locker through the factory switch? I guess I could put it in 4low... set up a test light for the front locker and play with a switch?

Which two wires would I need to tap to know if the power is getting to the relay?

I don't know how to read wireing diagrams... but if I could be directed to the two wires to splice into? then maybe it would work?

The harness comes down next to the radiator... through a big plastic gray plug... I'm guessing that is where the harness for the rubicon front locker is plugged in? My harness is also short of fog light plugs... how many different harness did jeep make?

Still the wires are there, the relay is there... just no plug at the bottom of the harness? MAybe jeep clipped the harness off and tapped them up and stuffed them into the plastic somewhere... really strange?

I know it can be ran to its own switch.... etc. But why waste the relay if it is all set up for the switch? Plus I would get the dash lights... and only have one button to cycle.

I have read through dozens of posts all over the forums... mostly you find people trying to bypass the computer. I would prefer to just have the lockers available in low range, and not mess with the traction control issues of being locked up and not having the computer turn off the control.

Sunnysideup

So been real busy, but I got the chance to look at the relay drawing... it seems like the 3 and 8 plug on the relay are what "close" to send power to the locker... I'll try with a test light this weekend. If so... I should have power to the locker just by taping into each of those wires past the relay.

Now if the computer needs to be flashed to get the switch to open for the relay to work... I'm just going to forget the factory switch and put another hole in the dash somewhere... but if I can get it to work... that will be cool!

Invest2m4

Why would you want to run the lockers through the factory switch??? Get the Rugged Ridge a-pillar mount and run the switches to that. Way easier to get to. Looks factory too. And it is less than $30.

jtphoto JK

These locker systems are negative switched. In other word the power wire (switched wire off ignition) is connected directly to the locker. The negative is sent from ground to switch to locker to complete the circuit. The factory switches are also negative switched. Wiring in this manner allows the switch light to go solid once the locker is engaged. My OX locker E actuator works the same way.

Foo

Wow, Nice Project to improve your X sir!

Sunnysideup

It was time.... thought it would be a good swap to do with 136,000miles on the 30... (and I did get 1350 out of the old 30!) So it will be an upgrade that cost around 2700... and I have a front locker now... all new ball joints, soild tubes, high steer brackets, all improvements to this daily driver!

Got it all dialed in, did the alignment myself, the axle is perfectly centered, nothing hits on it even at 30mph into the local speed bumps... it is very solid! No death wobble, no bump steer, and a littel less fear that I'm going snap something when I have to step on the skinny pedal.

Still trying to find where "they" tied back the wires to the front locker.... again the front relay is there, the wires come out of the relay into the harness that goes to the front of the jeep... but no harness seems to be present anywhere near the sway bar disconnect. There is one harness that goes over the the drivers side... two wires in it... but it is going to the hub. Those wires are in there somewhere... just need to pull a bunch of stuff out to find where they tucked those wires? Does the harness for the rubicon front axle come out of the same place as the swaybar disconnect? I assumed it came in to the locker from the front... anyone have a pic of where your harness coming off of the axle goes into the main harness coming down from the relays that are above the battery? Just have not found it... only had about an hour looking for it... 10 min at a time... but it would make it so simple lol! I really don't want more dash buttons... plus if I could finf the harness.. it sounds like the dash light would work too?

Sunnysideup

Well, gave up trying to use factory switch....mounted the front locker switch up on the a-pillar, down side is not factory in operation, no dash lights, no fail safe as far as it getting engaged accidentally. The upside... I can turn off traction control, and use the front locker in high or low, or without the rear locker being used. I'm heading to the hills to try it out in the morning... Going to the snow!