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-   -   Dana 30 Beefing (https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/modified-jk-tech-2/dana-30-beefing-352095/)

nick160225 10-22-2019 08:42 AM

Dana 30 Beefing
 
Context:

So I have a stock JK Sport with the front Dana 30 and am going up to 35s and a 3.5 in lift. I run trails in Michigan so nothing too hard or intense. In the spring I am planning on getting a regear and locker install.

Question:

Will trussing and upgrading axle shafts be enough to strengthen the Dana 30 with 35s or should I just upgrade to a Dana 44/try to find one from a Rubicon?

Really wish I would've gotten a rubicon to start with haha

karls10jk 10-22-2019 08:57 AM

If you're not doing anything hard or intense then why waste money for a locker? I've been on 35's for a while with very little added to my d30 but I also treat it though I've added very little. Upgraded all steering, heavy duty ball joints, C gussets (because they were cool at the time) and lower control arm bracket skids because I've seen them taco'd quickly.

The other response you'll get a lot of is "why the 3.5 lift with 35's?" and it's accurate, is there a reason you're looking at 3.5" lifts?

resharp001 10-22-2019 09:37 AM

I've been down this road. IMO, C gussets are the best thing on the D30 or even Rubi 44 axles, and some lower control arm skids are nice too as they get scraped up. A truss and/or sleeves ain't worth the money. I'd rather put that money into good ball joints. In regards to locker and regearing....you need to know you'll never get your money back out of that axle. If you're ok with that, sure, regear and lock it. You've got an '11 with the 3.8L, so I'm guessing you're going to be looking around 5.13 gearing....just know those teeth are getting smaller and smaller on that pinion and that's going to be one of the larger weak points when locked.

We all have different wheeling styles. Have you wheeled that jeep pretty good and run across things where lockers would have made the difference, or are lockers just something you think you might need? Nobody will ever say locking a D30 is worthwhile, but I also understand many people can't pony up for a PR44 or put money in to a Rubicon axle that isn't monumentally better. If you're ok with a non-selectable locker and can keep the cost down, might be worth the fun times. That D30 isn't going to crumble like a toothpick, but you need to keep the costs in check.

nick160225 10-22-2019 09:40 AM


Originally Posted by karls10jk (Post 4351061)
If you're not doing anything hard or intense then why waste money for a locker? I've been on 35's for a while with very little added to my d30 but I also treat it though I've added very little. Upgraded all steering, heavy duty ball joints, C gussets (because they were cool at the time) and lower control arm bracket skids because I've seen them taco'd quickly.

The other response you'll get a lot of is "why the 3.5 lift with 35's?" and it's accurate, is there a reason you're looking at 3.5" lifts?

Well the goal is to make the jeep as capable as possible so I can get into more intense stuff. Once I graduate with my masters I'm gonna make the JK my project car. And why the 3.5; is just for the better clearance and, since I plan on making it a project, in case if I want to go up to 37s. Also I talked to a few shops and jeepers and it was about 50/50 on if I should go 2.5 or 3.5.

nick160225 10-22-2019 09:44 AM


Originally Posted by resharp001 (Post 4351063)
I've been down this road. IMO, C gussets are the best thing on the D30 or even Rubi 44 axles, and some lower control arm skids are nice too as they get scraped up. A truss and/or sleeves ain't worth the money. I'd rather put that money into good ball joints. In regards to locker and regearing....you need to know you'll never get your money back out of that axle. If you're ok with that, sure, regear and lock it. You've got an '11 with the 3.8L, so I'm guessing you're going to be looking around 5.13 gearing....just know those teeth are getting smaller and smaller on that pinion and that's going to be one of the larger weak points when locked.

We all have different wheeling styles. Have you wheeled that jeep pretty good and run across things where lockers would have made the difference, or are lockers just something you think you might need? Nobody will ever say locking a D30 is worthwhile, but I also understand many people can't pony up for a PR44 or put money in to a Rubicon axle that isn't monumentally better. If you're ok with a non-selectable locker and can keep the cost down, might be worth the fun times. That D30 isn't going to crumble like a toothpick, but you need to keep the costs in check.

Well still on the fence if I wanna go 4.88 or the 5.13. But there was an instance where I had 2 tires off the ground and wasn't going anywhere haha. What I have considered just locking the rear though, is that a viable option?

resharp001 10-22-2019 09:47 AM


Originally Posted by nick160225 (Post 4351066)
What I have considered just locking the rear though, is that a viable option?

Based on your response to Karl, I think the rear end is more viable in the longer run and not going to be money thrown away like the front would be. Know that building towards 37s can run up to ~$10k. Sounds like a lot, but start breaking it down and you can see how easily it is to get there.

nick160225 10-22-2019 09:53 AM


Originally Posted by resharp001 (Post 4351067)
Based on your response to Karl, I think the rear end is more viable in the longer run and not going to be money thrown away like the front would be. Know that building towards 37s can run up to ~$10k. Sounds like a lot, but start breaking it down and you can see how easily it is to get there.

Yea that makes sense, considering I want to replace the front axle eventually anyway. Still kicking myself for not just getting a Rubicon to begin with; definitely could've saved money with the lockers and not NEEDing a regear with the 4.10.

resharp001 10-22-2019 09:58 AM

Well, a Rubicon isn't the end all be all so don't feel too bad. Outside of the transfer case, you'd be replacing about the same things. You'd still have to regear, and rubi lockers aren't the most reliable in the long run.

nick160225 10-22-2019 10:05 AM


Originally Posted by resharp001 (Post 4351071)
Well, a Rubicon isn't the end all be all so don't feel too bad. Outside of the transfer case, you'd be replacing about the same things. You'd still have to regear, and rubi lockers aren't the most reliable in the long run.

What type of locker should I go with? I was thinking an e-locker bc it seems more straightforward and I don't really want to do an air locker bc I don't want to install a compressor and that just sounds like a rabbit hole of expenses. And from what I've heard from hearsay it seems like auto lockers can be equally effective and ineffective. But I also heard there is like a kind where you just like twist a knob on your diff that locks up the axle? I couldn't find a name of that one.

Jahamm88 10-22-2019 10:54 AM


Originally Posted by nick160225
I don't want to install a compressor and that just sounds like a rabbit hole of expenses..

A compressor install isn't that expensive and in the end is a pretty useful thing. I went the route of installing a viair kit and it's been useful not only to run the lockers but for airing up as well as other inflation duties. I got the heavy duty viair kit and added a few bits and bobs to make it do what was needed and it's been great


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