youssefsaafan

resharp001

I'm surprised that the kit did not come with bumps or brake line brackets. Both of those are things that should be addressed. The brake brackets are cheap and simple. You should be doing both front and rear. The bump stop will require you to remove the front springs which will kinda stink as you're re-doing the work. I know these seem like little things, cheap things.....but it's frustrating cuz often times this is what you notice. Lifts whose sticker price might look more attractive, are not addressing things that need to be addressed. I would tell you can run without proper bump stops. If you go off road the real risk is blowing out some shocks and overstuffing your tire in the wheel well. If you never off road, might not be as big of a concern since articulation like that on the pavement isn't a reality.

I'd tell you bump stops don't have to be fancy. Cheap hockey pucks and cheap stick of all-thread with a couple nylock nuts gets the job done in a pinch.

youssefsaafan

resharp001

Y, I guess you probably have quite a bit more sand than boulders there. Forgot you were in Egypt. I'd add front bumpstops. You're probably looking at adding 2", but the only REAL way to know is to properly cycle your suspension and measure what size you really need. 98% of owners won't do that cuz it can be a decent bit of work. Most just plob on what came with the kit and call it a day. You might get by on the Teraflex bump extensions that just jam up in where those little factory pads are. Probably easier for you than removing the spring and drilling a hole in the spring perch. I'd think there's a good chance you still have to droop the axle and remove the spring to get it in there though.

nthinuf

Have you verified that it is the swaybar and not the tire? How centered is the front axle? Is the swaybar itself centered, or pulled off to the passenger side?

If the swaybar is not centered and is causing the contact, you can try working the bar sideways.


My first lift was OME HD. It was as minimal as he indicates, with northridge packaging a rear trackbar in as well. I added longer rear links, then moved the stock rears up front. Made some brakeline brackets. Added caster correction. Added bumpstops.

About the bumpstops, I sent some pictures of my fully compressed OME HD coils and had an email conversation with ARB's lead engineer about it. He indicated that their coils are designed with the idea of no damage from full coil-on-coil compression. I wasn't convinced, and added the bumpstops anyway.

youssefsaafan

youssefsaafan

nthinuf

The only clearance issues I had was tire on fender. That was with the Heavy coils (which gave over 3.25" of measured lift), and 33" tires. Added the bumpstops to keep the tires from rubbing the fenders.

Many lift kits ship longer rear links, then the instructions tell you to move the stock rears up front to get that swaybar level again. If you are worried about clearance when the swaybar moves up, consider getting a set of disconnects.

This is the picture I sent to OME tech support. No bumpstop - Disconnected - 33" tires contacting fender lips.


295/75/16 tires on 4.5" backspace rims. Turning the tires when stuffed was not an option.


After bumpstops, I got ahold of some take-off unpainted stock flares and chopped the lips off.

Rednroll

As I mentioned earlier, longer rear sway bar links are included with most lifts and the rears are moved to the front. The longer sway bar links are needed to keep the sway bar parallel to the ground. When you look at your sway bar you can see that it is angled downwards and that is due to adding taller springs and keeping the factory sway bar links which are now too short. If longer links hit anything under full compression then there would be a lot of us with lifts that would be experiencing that same problem...and we're not. Since your kit didn't include rear sway bar links, you should purchase some rear sway bar links and move the rears to the front. If you're concerned about losing travel, then purchase front sway bar quick disconnects like everyone else does and address that with the proper solution by disconnecting the front links when off-road.