Post the specs, just so we know where you're at.

 

I'm in the camp that if you're not happy with someone else's mod, then it's best to completely remove that mod and replace it with the mod of your choice. That way in the end you're never 2nd guessing anything if something doesn't feel right. You now own the mod changes and know exactly what is and isn't there. We see these type of posts on this forum all the time. Someone purchases a used JK with a questionable lift already on it, it doesn't feel right to them and then they spend a lot of time and $ trying to figure out ways to fix someone else's mess. I say completely get rid of the mess and replace it with something of your choosing so you know where you're starting. The only difficult part is knowing what they added, so you can remove it but most of us on this forum know the difference between what is stock and what isn't since there's only so much that can be changed in a suspension lift.

This replacing springs and leaving the shocks is a half-assed fix approach, where even if you end up getting everything corrected and fixed you'll always be 2nd guessing every bump and rattle and you will never be truly happy with your ride. Was that rattle because of the shocks I left on there from the previous install? Don't half-ass it by trying to fix someone else's mods by mix matching parts. Shocks aren't that expensive, especially when you purchase them as part of a kit where the springs and shocks were designed to work together.

To me this should be nothing different than if you were planning on purchasing a new lift kit and properly ensuring all things are addressed while installing that new lift such as caster and steering correction items.

 

The trackbar and the drag link are parallel with each other.

Here is how the trackbar mounts and pitman look

 

This is the rear trackbar and the spec sheet from my alignment

 

Did you notice those Caster and Camber numbers? What exactly is the complaint about the handling? Flighty / floaty, perhaps?

You might consider getting a second opinion. Some shops will throw it on the rack and print the 'before' specs for free, might be worth a few calls. Or if you have an angle finder, check the caster for yourself and see what you come up with.

 

Floaty, if I start to drift to the one side of the road or the other and I correct too quick then it sways. It's not nearly as bad as it was before I replaced the front end parts but it is enough that I wouldn't want my daughter driving it lol.

 

Yeah, stock Caster is around 4.2*. Low caster is pretty well known to cause flightiness, while higher caster gives a more firm/planted feeling. The aftermarket arms you have 'should' have brought it back up to at least 4. You'll want to double check the numbers...

And the low camber might possibly be an indication of bad ball joints or maybe even a bent front housing. Not horrible, but may be worth checking into.

 

Holy crap that caster is low!

I really cringe when I have to drop this video due one comment they make in it, but the bicycle example is one of the best visuals of how caster affects your ride. Most caster vids will explain the heck out of what caster is, but not really show you how dramatically it changes things. You can skip to about 3:20 if you don't want to watch the whole thing.

You Tube

 

does not look like those control arms are the right length. Are the uppers adjustable by chance or do you have cam bolts?

 

They are not adjustable but the lowers do have cam bolts. I'm a bit nervous that maybe the alignment shop didn't read my caster correctly, I placed a level on top pf the ball joint and get +4 degrees. That reading is using an iPhone vs an alignment machine though so it could be the shop is correct.