On a D44 front, pretty much everyone says the OEM locker eventually craps out. Ok, I'm re-gearing so now's the time to think about options for replacing that, so, let me run through some of my (quite possibly backwards) thought process. Everyone loves air lockers, so we can forget about those for the moment. E-lockers are a drop in, and seem to be a second choice....but here's where I get weird. With Lockers, it's either all or nothing, right? I mean, until you flip that switch it's essentially functioning the same as an open carrier, then bam. The switch is flipped and it's basically a spool. Then we talk about limited slip...not the regular stuff, but the good helical stuff, where it's actually dividing the traction all the time, changing with the terrain. To my mind, this seems like a great option unless you're into hard core rock crawling. In theory, it's power where you need it, all the time, no?
So tell me where my thinking is flawed.

 

Your thinking is only flawed by the assertion that helical LSDs divide traction all of the time. I would say they divide traction most of the time, except when you really need them to...

If you aren't doing hardcore rock crawling why run a front locker or LSD at all? You don't need either of them.

If you DO need one of them, a locker will be there when you need it but almost just as importantly, wont be getting in the way when you don't need it. Open diffs are nice on steering axles, tighter turn radius, less steering feedback and binding, ect... I don't want an LSD deciding to bind up making my steering less responsive, I would rather have something selectable in the front that I can turn on or off as the driving conditions merit.

 

You would know if you "need" your front locker. Why not just leave it stock until it becomes a problem, then decide; you might be surprised by its reliability.

 

That's a good point. If you don't rock crawl you will rarely use it, thus, it will probably last a lifetime...

 

Can you elaborate a little more on what you mean by "except when you really need them to"?
Also, to sharpen it to a slightly finer point on my end, You're right that I don't really do any hardcore rock crawling. My vision for this Jeep has always been more of a "hardcore trail rig" if that makes sense. Put another way, a trail rig that can handle some crawling...within reason.

 

I say that because they still require resistance on each wheel in order to send power to both sides. If you get into a situation where one wheel is bound, and the other has little resistance, the LSD is going to slip, even a torsion LSD will slip and send power to the path of least resistance when the resistance differential is great. You can usually overcome that issue by riding the brakes a little bit to regain some resistance to the free spinning wheel, and they will usually "lock-up" for you again. By this time though, you might be digging yourself into a situation that would not have otherwise existed had the wheel with traction been fed power the whole time...

 

The problem with this line of thinking is that if you go far enough down the rabbit hole you'll end up with the thought process that modding the rubi axle at all (re-gear and strengthening) is going to be wasted time and money, and at some point that is true. Where/when is that point? Different for everyone based on use and slush funds.

If the locker currently works, I'd just keep it, regear, roll on. These aren't something you're using constantly ya know. What happens is the magnets will fail, but it's a replaceable part, though costly. I had a wave spring fail on a rear locker....that really sucked cuz a spring that is a few bucks rendered the locker trash cuz not replaceable. If you care to see the breakdown of that locker google "jk locker study ronjenx" and you'll find great threads.

I'd also add that the rear is the real issue, cuz the rear rubi axle shafts are 32-spline, and guess what.....there's no good simple replacement. You have to go 35-spline and typically you'd already upgraded to chromoly shafts for your rubi which then means buying new shafts, new locker, and paying for regear again.

 

This website explains the Torsen limitations better than I did. Hope it is okay to post a link.

https://www.kmpdrivetrain.com/differ...-differential/

 

Ok, that makes sense and definitely helps.

 

Good link. That makes it very clear that this is not the way to go.