Front Axle Options
Former Member
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 2,573
Likes: 2
From: USA
If Dynatrac is recommending a 2.5" just for their PR44, I'd think you'd at least want a 2.5"-3" lift to get a 60 in. I'm planning to go 3.5" from my 2.5"
Last edited by DJ1; Mar 12, 2016 at 06:29 AM.
JK Newbie
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
From: CA
I will be more specific with my question. Can you retain stock steering geometry/draglink height with a Fusion 60 and will the truss/pumpkin present any problems with 0-1" max bumpstop?
JK Junkie
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 2,123
Likes: 1
From: - - Jeep-topia - -
I'm really thinking 3.5" after reading this thread.
Walking down this exact same road. 3.5" and any axle or tire combo. My 30 needs so much right now I don't want to touch it. Unit bearings, ball joints, regear, needs brakes, amazed it's lasted this long. 101k, in a couple weeks. Couple zeros more, for all I'm looking for is hardly much to ask.
I was just looking to buy a set of trail tires and wheels maybe a 37 on 17 combo. Jk is not a dd, granny car from a to b.
But if the 8 lug pattern is inevitable for the rear, setting up the front temporarily is a bit easier. Spacers are a proven and cost efficient method, obviously.
Every local super duty I can find is broke down and going for 6-7 and parting out is hard enough. The 6.0 flop is to blame, just my opinion. The 7.3 trucks go for even more, broke down. But that's a decent motor, subjectively.
Come to think of it, adding this much weight as a whole nearly justifies a motor change as well. . .
Walking down this exact same road. 3.5" and any axle or tire combo. My 30 needs so much right now I don't want to touch it. Unit bearings, ball joints, regear, needs brakes, amazed it's lasted this long. 101k, in a couple weeks. Couple zeros more, for all I'm looking for is hardly much to ask.
I was just looking to buy a set of trail tires and wheels maybe a 37 on 17 combo. Jk is not a dd, granny car from a to b.
But if the 8 lug pattern is inevitable for the rear, setting up the front temporarily is a bit easier. Spacers are a proven and cost efficient method, obviously.
Every local super duty I can find is broke down and going for 6-7 and parting out is hard enough. The 6.0 flop is to blame, just my opinion. The 7.3 trucks go for even more, broke down. But that's a decent motor, subjectively.
Come to think of it, adding this much weight as a whole nearly justifies a motor change as well. . .
Former Member
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 2,573
Likes: 2
From: USA
I'm not sure why the pr44 would have any kind of a lift requirement since the dimensions are nearly identical to stock and you retain your stock knuckles. Perhaps you are referring to the caster corrected version.
I will be more specific with my question. Can you retain stock steering geometry/draglink height with a Fusion 60 and will the truss/pumpkin present any problems with 0-1" max bumpstop?
I will be more specific with my question. Can you retain stock steering geometry/draglink height with a Fusion 60 and will the truss/pumpkin present any problems with 0-1" max bumpstop?
"That lift (2") is slightly below the range where we recommend the unlimited housing."
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/modi...3/#post4196198
Former Member
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 2,573
Likes: 2
From: USA
I'm really thinking 3.5" after reading this thread.
Walking down this exact same road. 3.5" and any axle or tire combo. My 30 needs so much right now I don't want to touch it. Unit bearings, ball joints, regear, needs brakes, amazed it's lasted this long. 101k, in a couple weeks. Couple zeros more, for all I'm looking for is hardly much to ask.
I was just looking to buy a set of trail tires and wheels maybe a 37 on 17 combo. Jk is not a dd, granny car from a to b.
But if the 8 lug pattern is inevitable for the rear, setting up the front temporarily is a bit easier. Spacers are a proven and cost efficient method, obviously.
Every local super duty I can find is broke down and going for 6-7 and parting out is hard enough. The 6.0 flop is to blame, just my opinion. The 7.3 trucks go for even more, broke down. But that's a decent motor, subjectively.
Come to think of it, adding this much weight as a whole nearly justifies a motor change as well. . .
Walking down this exact same road. 3.5" and any axle or tire combo. My 30 needs so much right now I don't want to touch it. Unit bearings, ball joints, regear, needs brakes, amazed it's lasted this long. 101k, in a couple weeks. Couple zeros more, for all I'm looking for is hardly much to ask.
I was just looking to buy a set of trail tires and wheels maybe a 37 on 17 combo. Jk is not a dd, granny car from a to b.
But if the 8 lug pattern is inevitable for the rear, setting up the front temporarily is a bit easier. Spacers are a proven and cost efficient method, obviously.
Every local super duty I can find is broke down and going for 6-7 and parting out is hard enough. The 6.0 flop is to blame, just my opinion. The 7.3 trucks go for even more, broke down. But that's a decent motor, subjectively.
Come to think of it, adding this much weight as a whole nearly justifies a motor change as well. . .
I have spydertrax wheel adapters on so no problems here also in using them. I think I'm going to go the 5x5.5 route on the 99-04 axle to help keep the weight down and just beefing up the stock rear 44 internals. Just waiting to see what Dan's got lined up in the ORI suspension department...
The 05+ even parted out are being priced outrageous. Although Ebay I've seen you can get a set for about $500 but I'm not sure that includes the hubs, calipers, and rotors. Guys on pirate seem to be picking these up at $250, $300 like it's nothing lol.
There's a ton of 99-04's here in CA you just got to make sure it's a front 60 vs a front 50.
Last edited by DJ1; Mar 12, 2016 at 07:34 AM.
JK Junkie
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 2,123
Likes: 1
From: - - Jeep-topia - -
I'm pretty much in the same boat although at least I've got the 3.6 which is why I'm considering going less beefy with the 99-04 axle. Don't want to weigh the rig down more if I don't have to. I've got the 30 right now and I really don't want to be "that guy" that blows his ring gear on the trail although I know it happens but if I can stack the deck more in my favor.... I have spydertrax wheel adapters on so no problems here also in using them. I think I'm going to go the 5x5.5 route on the 99-04 axle to help keep the weight down and just beefing up the stock rear 44 internals. Just waiting to see what Dan's got lined up in the ORI suspension department... The 05+ even parted out are being priced outrageous. Although Ebay I've seen you can get a set for about $500 but I'm not sure that includes the hubs, calipers, and rotors. Guys on pirate seem to be picking these up at $250, $300 like it's nothing lol. There's a ton of 99-04's here in CA you just got to make sure it's a front 60 vs a front 50.
Seriously, new front axle and spacers, with 35 spline shafts and a locker in the rear 44 is a fantastic compromise.
Might be a temporary way to run it, but will also work at low speed and not as a dd for quite some time.
The new rear end will come in time, that's the beauty of it. With new wheels, and really unlimited tire options.
Former Vendor
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 152
Likes: 0
From: Grosse Pointe, MI
Now that we are officially allowed to comment on the forum, we are here to answer any questions you may have. A couple items we caught while reading through the posts.
1. The PR44 Unlimited has additional separation built into the housing (more caster at the same pinion angle). That is the reason you want a minimum amount of lift. Too much caster can be just as bad as too little.
2. In terms of clearance, every Jeep is different. I'd say most people already run enough bump stop that a D60 won't require more clearance. The 05+ 60 is a beast, so we wouldn't recommend that for someone trying to run under 3" of lift with a lot of up travel.
3. While the 99-04 axle is smaller, it is still a very strong version of a D60. The unit bearings are the same ones you see running in KOH. 35 splines inner shafts. The 30 spline outers are very inexpensive to upgrade to 35 spline chromoly. One benefit is that there are more axle shaft options. With the 05+, you either run stock shafts or $2300 RCVs. There are numerous options for the 99-04, and you also have many locking hub options and drive flange options.
The one drawback to the 99-04 is that Reid doesn't make a knuckle for it. However, the stock knuckle can be machined for a high steer arm. There is also more flexibility in the 99-04.
Which axle is right really depends on each individuals situation and use case. We really like both axles. In our view, anyone looking at a PR44 should be looking at our 99-04 axle. Same price or less, and just a far better axle.
1. The PR44 Unlimited has additional separation built into the housing (more caster at the same pinion angle). That is the reason you want a minimum amount of lift. Too much caster can be just as bad as too little.
2. In terms of clearance, every Jeep is different. I'd say most people already run enough bump stop that a D60 won't require more clearance. The 05+ 60 is a beast, so we wouldn't recommend that for someone trying to run under 3" of lift with a lot of up travel.
3. While the 99-04 axle is smaller, it is still a very strong version of a D60. The unit bearings are the same ones you see running in KOH. 35 splines inner shafts. The 30 spline outers are very inexpensive to upgrade to 35 spline chromoly. One benefit is that there are more axle shaft options. With the 05+, you either run stock shafts or $2300 RCVs. There are numerous options for the 99-04, and you also have many locking hub options and drive flange options.
The one drawback to the 99-04 is that Reid doesn't make a knuckle for it. However, the stock knuckle can be machined for a high steer arm. There is also more flexibility in the 99-04.
Which axle is right really depends on each individuals situation and use case. We really like both axles. In our view, anyone looking at a PR44 should be looking at our 99-04 axle. Same price or less, and just a far better axle.
JK Junkie
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 3,068
Likes: 116
From: Bunnlevel, NC
Now that we are officially allowed to comment on the forum, we are here to answer any questions you may have. A couple items we caught while reading through the posts.
1. The PR44 Unlimited has additional separation built into the housing (more caster at the same pinion angle). That is the reason you want a minimum amount of lift. Too much caster can be just as bad as too little.
2. In terms of clearance, every Jeep is different. I'd say most people already run enough bump stop that a D60 won't require more clearance. The 05+ 60 is a beast, so we wouldn't recommend that for someone trying to run under 3" of lift with a lot of up travel.
3. While the 99-04 axle is smaller, it is still a very strong version of a D60. The unit bearings are the same ones you see running in KOH. 35 splines inner shafts. The 30 spline outers are very inexpensive to upgrade to 35 spline chromoly. One benefit is that there are more axle shaft options. With the 05+, you either run stock shafts or $2300 RCVs. There are numerous options for the 99-04, and you also have many locking hub options and drive flange options.
The one drawback to the 99-04 is that Reid doesn't make a knuckle for it. However, the stock knuckle can be machined for a high steer arm. There is also more flexibility in the 99-04.
Which axle is right really depends on each individuals situation and use case. We really like both axles. In our view, anyone looking at a PR44 should be looking at our 99-04 axle. Same price or less, and just a far better axle.
1. The PR44 Unlimited has additional separation built into the housing (more caster at the same pinion angle). That is the reason you want a minimum amount of lift. Too much caster can be just as bad as too little.
2. In terms of clearance, every Jeep is different. I'd say most people already run enough bump stop that a D60 won't require more clearance. The 05+ 60 is a beast, so we wouldn't recommend that for someone trying to run under 3" of lift with a lot of up travel.
3. While the 99-04 axle is smaller, it is still a very strong version of a D60. The unit bearings are the same ones you see running in KOH. 35 splines inner shafts. The 30 spline outers are very inexpensive to upgrade to 35 spline chromoly. One benefit is that there are more axle shaft options. With the 05+, you either run stock shafts or $2300 RCVs. There are numerous options for the 99-04, and you also have many locking hub options and drive flange options.
The one drawback to the 99-04 is that Reid doesn't make a knuckle for it. However, the stock knuckle can be machined for a high steer arm. There is also more flexibility in the 99-04.
Which axle is right really depends on each individuals situation and use case. We really like both axles. In our view, anyone looking at a PR44 should be looking at our 99-04 axle. Same price or less, and just a far better axle.
Former Vendor
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 152
Likes: 0
From: Grosse Pointe, MI
We'd have to measure, but definitely more than 6 degrees. The 05+ is between 9-10. In addition, the upper ball joints use an alignment sleeve. You can adjust caster and camber with different sleeves. As much as +/- 2 degrees. So, you actually don't need to sweat over which housing to get like you do with a PR.
JK Junkie
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 3,068
Likes: 116
From: Bunnlevel, NC
We'd have to measure, but definitely more than 6 degrees. The 05+ is between 9-10. In addition, the upper ball joints use an alignment sleeve. You can adjust caster and camber with different sleeves. As much as +/- 2 degrees. So, you actually don't need to sweat over which housing to get like you do with a PR.
