Which front CV Driveshaft and Y-Pipe do I need? (Help)
#1
JK Newbie
Thread Starter
Which front CV Driveshaft and Y-Pipe do I need? (Help)
Hey guys,
Just got my 4" Teraflex short arm lift and 35"s installed on my rig at the dealership near me. They're good guys and cut my labor down for me, overall I'm super happy. Mike the tech who did my install told me two things I need to get before I really push it off road are:
Y-Pipe and CV Driveshaft
I just watched a Rough Country video on their Jeep Y-Pipe Assembly. Y-Pipe Exhaust Assembly for 2012-2016 Jeep JK Wrangler Unlimited [1040] | Rough Country Suspension Systems®
1. It looks really easy to do. I took my old factory shocks and takes-offs and put them on my GF's stock Jeep, if i can do all that, can i handle installing the Y-Pipe??
2. What's going to be the difference between a Rough Country Y-Pipe like above or something like this Magna Flow Y-Pipe ?
Second, What front CV Driveshaft do I need to get? The tech said that because the way the lift put the angle of the drive shaft, if it the axle flexes down, the shaft could lock up or seize. Thats not good obviously. So what front CV driveshaft kit do I need that has everything included in it?!
Also, where can I get either of these parts at discount for being a member of this awesome forum??!
Thanks guys.
Just got my 4" Teraflex short arm lift and 35"s installed on my rig at the dealership near me. They're good guys and cut my labor down for me, overall I'm super happy. Mike the tech who did my install told me two things I need to get before I really push it off road are:
Y-Pipe and CV Driveshaft
I just watched a Rough Country video on their Jeep Y-Pipe Assembly. Y-Pipe Exhaust Assembly for 2012-2016 Jeep JK Wrangler Unlimited [1040] | Rough Country Suspension Systems®
1. It looks really easy to do. I took my old factory shocks and takes-offs and put them on my GF's stock Jeep, if i can do all that, can i handle installing the Y-Pipe??
2. What's going to be the difference between a Rough Country Y-Pipe like above or something like this Magna Flow Y-Pipe ?
Second, What front CV Driveshaft do I need to get? The tech said that because the way the lift put the angle of the drive shaft, if it the axle flexes down, the shaft could lock up or seize. Thats not good obviously. So what front CV driveshaft kit do I need that has everything included in it?!
Also, where can I get either of these parts at discount for being a member of this awesome forum??!
Thanks guys.
Last edited by JBulls17; 12-01-2016 at 12:56 PM.
#2
JK Super Freak
quality. get the magnaflow and as for the DS look into the teraflex high angle rezeppa joint for the stock shaft or you can get an adams / je reel / tom woods driveshafts.
#3
JK Newbie
Thread Starter
Im not too knowledgable with driveshaft components.. could you toss me a couple links for the specific shafts you referred? I'm on sites and I see JE Reel And Tom Woods, etc but i have no idea what I'm looking at... 1310... 1350... no idea what that means..
I have a 2015 JK 4 Door
#4
JK Jedi Master
Join Date: Jan 2008
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Tom Woods has a ton of info in both the Jeep JK and the Tech Info areas. He goes over 1310 vs 1350. For most of us, 1310 is fine, but read through it and see what you think.
http://www.4xshaft.com/
The teraflex joint that was mentioned seems to be a good option, for those who are keeping the thick front driveshaft and just want to replace a failed joint. It sounds like you will want a thinner aftermarket shaft, though.
There doesn't seem to be much difference in the aftermarket shafts themselves, it's mostly the joints and how they mount, and price and customer service of course. Some shafts require a swap of the flange/yoke, others have some type of adapter plate to bolt up directly. Some joints are sealed (non-greasable), others require you to remove the shaft to grease each of the joints. (some zerks you can get to with it installed, the center ball you will need to remove the shaft...) Each shaft should list both the type of joint and attachment method in the description.
Some people have found that their local driveline shops are cheaper than the big names. And local support is always a plus. My local shop was significantly more expensive, but check and see what you find.
- and before you buy, you could find someplace to flex it out and actually check the clearances. If there isn't contact and you think it'll be ok, then just crawl underneath and check the joints as part of normal maintenance. When you see a big ring of grease, you'll know it's time.
http://www.4xshaft.com/
The teraflex joint that was mentioned seems to be a good option, for those who are keeping the thick front driveshaft and just want to replace a failed joint. It sounds like you will want a thinner aftermarket shaft, though.
There doesn't seem to be much difference in the aftermarket shafts themselves, it's mostly the joints and how they mount, and price and customer service of course. Some shafts require a swap of the flange/yoke, others have some type of adapter plate to bolt up directly. Some joints are sealed (non-greasable), others require you to remove the shaft to grease each of the joints. (some zerks you can get to with it installed, the center ball you will need to remove the shaft...) Each shaft should list both the type of joint and attachment method in the description.
Some people have found that their local driveline shops are cheaper than the big names. And local support is always a plus. My local shop was significantly more expensive, but check and see what you find.
- and before you buy, you could find someplace to flex it out and actually check the clearances. If there isn't contact and you think it'll be ok, then just crawl underneath and check the joints as part of normal maintenance. When you see a big ring of grease, you'll know it's time.
Last edited by nthinuf; 12-01-2016 at 01:31 PM.
#6
JK Jedi
I have the AFE y-pipe and have been happy with it for a few years. As far as drive shafts go, you won't need one immediately, but over time, lifted that high, the CV joint at the Transfer case side will eventually fail. More often than not you'll see great splattered on the underside of the body cuz the boot up there rips (although it's tucked up there so you don't really see the boot). You might get 10k miles out of the factory one, you might get 30k miles. I've seen both ends of the spectrum first hand. Also, one thing about the y-pipe, you'll need to be ok running that exhaust fairly close to some fuel lines. just make sure to cover everything adequately with heat shield.
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#8
JK Newbie
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#9
JK Jedi
#10
Former Vendor
As Resharp mentioned, Northridge4x4 has a discount for forum members, and you can also check with Autoplicity or CarID for any potential savings!