One VERY important thing I forgot to add.

When putting it back together, do NOT tighten the upper and lower control arm bolts or the track bar bolts. Just get them a little snug. Once the Jeep is back off the jack stands and at right height, then and only then will you torque those to spec. Torquing those bolts at a droop will put unnecessary pre-load on the bushings and will lead to premature failure.

 

Like most have already said, it's not so bad. For me to remove my d30 and install my Currie 44 with swapping EVERYTHING off of the old axle it was a full day in the garage. That included removing knuckles/hubs shafts, front ds etc... And for reference on mechanical ability, my buddy has done a full frame swap on a Toyota pickup, and is on engine 3 and trans 2 of his Subaru race rig and I'm no spring chicken with this stuff either. Just take your time and don't forget where everything came from and you'll be fine. I put together a time lapse of the swap Check it out of your interested in a visual
time lapse here

 

Thanks everyone! Does anyone have the torque specs for when I put it back together?

 

The holy grail of torque specs

https://project-jk.com/jeep-jk-write...orque-settings

 

This is definitely a good thing to tackle if you never have.....if nothing more than as a learning experience and to get better acquainted with your axle and suspension. One thing I didn't see mentioned above (unless i missed it) is that it is helpful to have 2 floor jacks, one for the pumpkin and one to support the pinion. When reinstalling you'll need to jack either the pumpkin or the pinion appropriately to line up the control arm bolts. A 3rd jack is a real luxury since the diff is offset and not in the middle of the axle, but you can manage with two.

Everyone's comments above are great. I'd also add that it's a good practice to re-torque everything after 500-1k miles after it's been reinstalled.....just to catch something that might have loosened up or that got overlooked.