Rednroll

I have to find out which SuperDuty D60 axles they recommend that works with the kit.

All brackets seem to be present on their kit image.

jedg

This is the info for the Artec kit. Has a bunch of 'Important Notes' at the bottom.

JK 1 Ton Superduty Front Axle Swap

Like Dirtman said... this has been covered ad nauseam on JKOwners and Pirate4x4..... DIY ain't as cheep as it seams and it definitely ain't easy.

If you've the talent and the time, I think it would be really interesting and fun. I don't have the talent.. hahaha...

Rednroll

Thanks for the link.

.......but has it been covered yet using the Fusion 4x4 conversion kit?

Everyone keeps coming in with their pre-canned responses from all the obstacles identified in all those other discussions without even reading the details in my OP. There's a new variable added to the mix that provides solutions to the problems that were previously discussed, so we need to start all over. Besides that, I haven't read all those other discussions.

Right now, what I'm thinking will be the most difficult part for me is in dealing with the inner C's. Those, I will need to get a more experienced welder to put those on.

TheDirtman

That 4 wheeler write up has clearance issues even with coil overs. What they build will work fine if not flexing and going straight, once you flex that out it will have clearance issues. I would suspect traditional coils is going to be worse. You are also going to gain height with coils as the mounts are higher then the factory axle. If you are just worried about breaking a tube and bending a C why not just re-tube your dana 30 with bigger thicker tubes and get some after market C's that are stronger. You could caster correct the axle and gain the strength for about $800. Your mention of buying $200 dana 30's off craigslist is a valid one. You could buy one and have it set up ready to go if you had and issue and replace it in a couple hours.

Rednroll

Thanks Dirtman, I didn't realize tube replacements were even an option.

I'll look into that and the D44 J8 swap as well. Both sound like good options, for us non rock crawlers not looking to move to larger than 35s.

Ideally my goal is to move to 4.56 or 4.88 gears with Truetrac LSDs front/rear and not be overly concerned with bending/breaking the front axle, thus throwing that mod $ investment on gears and traction devices away. I'm onboard with whatever axle mod solution that allows me to get there with the least amount of additional investment for the added strength.

I play in the woods, sand and snow. I don't need something that can be bounced off of rocks carrying/turning 40in tires. Maybe driving over some tree logs is about the worst it gets but the 35s are fine for me on the mostly dirt/mud, sand, and snow hills I climb on.

Just trying to get to that deer blind or off the beaten path fishing hole and not bend an axle doing it.

BoraBora

Yes, it's the Artec swap kit. Nothing new, just offered on the Fusion website. They call it the Artec kit on their website as well.

I think you should go the full 1 ton route, or save your money and either build your 30, or buy a ProRock 44. The 44/60 Hybrid axle they made it cool, and is smart for Fusion to increase revenue...but honestly it's an over glorified D44. As noted, it has the same ball joints as the JK, bearings, steering, and it's semi-float. Plus...you're losing a lot of ground clearance if you're planning on staying on 35's. I think a ProRock 44 would be a better buy for the same money, even though this 44/60 Hybrid has thicker tubes, bigger gears, and axle shafts...you're not going to break those unless you're bouncing off rocks (like you stated). PR 44 has thicker tubes and thicker c's too, and has better ground clearance than Rubi 44's.

jtphoto JK

Couple of quick notes ..

There is no TruTrac diff for the Rubi front or rear D44. Not a problem there as you can install a selectable locker up front and you can get a TruTrac for your non-Rubi rear D44.


My Build is the Mopar D44HD/J8 front diff, 5.38 Yukons, with an OX locker.
Rear D44, Yukon 5.38, TruTrac with G2 chromo axles. Pushing 37x12.50x17 Pitbull Rockers. If I don't break things with this combo, you would be overbuilt for 35s.

Rednroll

I'm now leaning towards your Mopar J8 D44 recommendation. I just read a couple of other discussions on these front axles you helped others with. The whole D44HD/J8 and D44 with J8 tubes is pretty confusing. What I was able to summarize is that the D44HD/J8 is a beefed up Rubi D44 axle where I'm limited to the same Rubi D44 Locker selection scenarios....no Truetrac LSD. So therefore, I'm leaning towards the D44 with J8 military tubes version, so I can go with either a Truetrac or an aftermarket locker in the front. Do you happen to know the Mopar P/N for the D44 with J8 tubes?

Finding the D44HD/J8 part numbers were simple.
5153825AH= D44HD/J8 with 4.10 gears and Rubi e-locker
P5160036= D44HD/J8 housing only

jtphoto JK

The D44HD/J8 (same housing as the DanaSpicer Ultimate D44) I have is a beefed up Rubi D44 with J8 tubes. There are a few good options for lockers but TruTrac is not one of them. The reason I chose the OX Locker.

The actual Military J8 D44 is the same basic set up however it comes with a open diff and SAE bearings ( non Metric ) the same as your rear non Rubi D44 .. not sure if there is a TruTrac that will fit that housing. Unfortunately I don't think you can buy the bare J8 D44 housing. The complete J8 D44 assembly even though it has the same Cs and balljoints also has bigger wheel bearings and brakes but also bigger wheel bolt pattern so it requires the use of wheels for the RAM1500

jtphoto JK

The D44HD/J8 Mopar PN# P5160036 is actually the enhanced front HD D44 that Mopar uses on the factory Rubicon Recon.