Doesn't do anything to address the clearance with the crossover tube if that's a concern. That was my main reason for swapping the shaft to begin with.

 

Who said it's weaker? The rzeppa joint is stronger than a 1310 u joint. The shaft itself isn't weaker either. It is larger though.

 

I'll be going the teraflop route with the front shaft. The rear I have an Adams and it seems to work as it should. I'll be keeping the stock shaft in front so as there'll be no problems with castor vs pinion angle as the rezeppa joint is much more forgiving.

 

Another vote for Adams, seems to be a very well-made product.

 

I'm running Adams 1310 in the front and 1350 in the rear now for about two years with a 6.0L driving them. I'm not much for 'giving it hell' to get over obstacles, but I've been happy with these drive shafts. I do keep the slip-joint greased and inspect the u-joints with every oil change.

 

I rebuilt a joint using TF's high angle housing. Never used it though. I sold it to a member on this forum, last time i checked in he liked it.

 

That looks like some good angle on there. I need to check my crossmember clearance at full droop and see if my stock shaft is hitting. If not, I'll probably go that route. If it is, I'll probably go with Adams 1350.

 

Heres another

 

There are quite a few old threads and pics of people notching out the crossmember skid (or lowering it by adding washers) to provide a little more clearance. Just another option if you choose to stay with the stock shaft.

 

That reminds me, is that small crossmember necessary? Has anyone just removed it all together? Doesn't look like it does much for support.