Front spring not centered
#11
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Location: Lynnwood, WA
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Originally Posted by resharp001
Just ran out to look at mine. On the backside of that upper perch, I have about 1 fingers width of space between the spring and the metal. It does look a little weird if just glancing at that picture, because the springs don't mount right in the center of the upper when looking from the side. You are dead certain that the isolator is properly positioned? That is the only thing I can thing of is the whole isolator is slid a bit towards the back. What looks odd to me is how close that shock runs, but it's been a long time since I've glanced at something that wasn't outboarded (disregard, i see that is an illusion).
here are a few pics of mine with 3.5" RK springs -
That last pic I tried to take straight on.
here are a few pics of mine with 3.5" RK springs -
That last pic I tried to take straight on.
#12
JK Jedi
It is definitely hard to take pictures in that area, cuz even the slightest different angle changes the optics. I was having a hard time getting a good picture with a 37 in the way. I coincidentally had to mess with my rear springs last night. Rather than struggling, it's probably just easier to disconnect the sway, TB and shock on that side, remove the tire, lift the jeep, support the frame, and let that sucker droop....essentially starting over in getting the spring situated in place. Always takes longer than you want, but might just be the best solution.
#13
Super Moderator
Granted this is only 2.5", I think it gives you a good reference of where the spring should sit. Resharp nailed it, it's tough to take a picture with the tire in the way. I tried on my driversd sure and the angle killed it. (Ignore the circle, I was doing the EGR valve....not particularly fun)
#14
I'd just jump in here to offer that when the springs get bowed or start rubbing the frame or other components it's usually because you don't have the bump stops centered, upper to lower, or, the axle isn't centered side to side under the frame. Kit instruction control arm lengths are sometimes just wrong. Teraflex's instructions were off by as much as 1" too long for years until they found and corrected the error. The best way to ensure you have the bump stops aligned properly is to get the rig up on jack stands with the wheels removed. Get jacks under each side of the axle at the control arm mounts. Remove the springs & shocks so you can raise the axle on both sides all the way to the bump stops. (This is a good way to ensure the bumps stops are long enough, too.) Install any kit supplied bump stop extensions on both sides. Now raise the axle until the upper and lower bump stops contact. Adjust the LOWER control arm until the bump stops are dead-centered. That's your correct lower control arm setting. Reinstall the springs & shocks and adjust your caster with the UPPER control arm. Now adjust your front track bar until the axle is centered side to side using FRAME reference points, not the body. Your springs should be nice & straight, no bows. Don't forget to adjust the stering wheel.
#15
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Thanks sok66. That's good info on aligning control arms. I'll have to check on that when I get the time. Looks like it's pretty normal for the spring to just sit in the cup somewhere as a pose to being perfectly centered
#16
JK Jedi
the way the isolator is designed it should self centering. the isolator fits tight on the tube and the coil fits in the rut.
Last edited by jadmt; 03-04-2019 at 04:53 AM.