G2 Core Vs PR44U
Thread Starter
JK Newbie
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 53
Likes: 0
From: Williamstown, NJ
G2 Core Vs PR44U
So I've been going back and forth and researching the hell out of it. I REALLY can't decide between the two. I obviously like the price of the G2. You get the 35 spline shafts, the Auburn ected locker and skid plates and all the goodies for the price of $4100. It's a very beefy axle but just not quite what the PR44 is but also for 4600 I'm only getting 30 spline shafts instead. I was curious as to if people have real world knowledge and experience with these axles.
I'm currently running 37's on a stock 30 and I need to do something before I mess it up. All real world experience is appreciated and I have been emailing back and forth with fusion 4x4 about a 60 I'm just not sure if that will be completely affordable at this time but I'll find out when they quote me
I'm currently running 37's on a stock 30 and I need to do something before I mess it up. All real world experience is appreciated and I have been emailing back and forth with fusion 4x4 about a 60 I'm just not sure if that will be completely affordable at this time but I'll find out when they quote me
JK Jedi Master
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 11,463
Likes: 165
From: Austin <--> Colorado Springs
Just a few thoughts:
The l/s portion of the ECTED is clutch based. Clutches tend to wear out and need to be replaced. Just something to keep in mind.
There have been quite a few posts about front 35sp shafts only being 35sp for like 6 inches, then tapering down for the rest of the length. May not be as big of a strength improvement there as you expect. (?)
Both use stock hubs/balljoints/brakes/etc. Lot of money to spend to 'upgrade' the axle, while keeping known weak points.
I have a pr44. It has been great, no problems at all. But, I got it years ago when they first came. None of the new aftermarket options were available, and people were still working out the kinks on junkyard builds. If I were in the market today, I would be leaning towards a 60 upgrade instead.
The l/s portion of the ECTED is clutch based. Clutches tend to wear out and need to be replaced. Just something to keep in mind.
There have been quite a few posts about front 35sp shafts only being 35sp for like 6 inches, then tapering down for the rest of the length. May not be as big of a strength improvement there as you expect. (?)
Both use stock hubs/balljoints/brakes/etc. Lot of money to spend to 'upgrade' the axle, while keeping known weak points.
I have a pr44. It has been great, no problems at all. But, I got it years ago when they first came. None of the new aftermarket options were available, and people were still working out the kinks on junkyard builds. If I were in the market today, I would be leaning towards a 60 upgrade instead.
Thread Starter
JK Newbie
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 53
Likes: 0
From: Williamstown, NJ
Thanks for the response. Just some thoughts of mine. I definitely appreciate your input
Just a few thoughts:
The l/s portion of the ECTED is clutch based. Clutches tend to wear out and need to be replaced. Just something to keep in mind. [COLOR="#FF0000"]that's interesting and a valid point. I had an Eaton E Locker in my old jeep and though this was pretty similar in design minus the part Limited Slip and then being able to lock fully/COLOR]
There have been quite a few posts about front 35sp shafts only being 35sp for like 6 inches, then tapering down for the rest of the length. May not be as big of a strength improvement there as you expect. (?)I get the taper and have read that but also it was my understanding it did help less twisting and breaking of teeth
Both use stock hubs/balljoints/brakes/etc. Lot of money to spend to 'upgrade' the axle, while keeping known weak points. that thought popped into my head but if I can drop in a say 4500 nicely built 44 and then drop less then 800 bucks to regear the back its a few $$$ cheaper then the work that needs to be done to make a 60 work up front, buy new rims and then still have to regear the rear
I have a pr44. It has been great, no problems at all. But, I got it years ago when they first came. None of the new aftermarket options were available, and people were still working out the kinks on junkyard builds. If I were in the market today, I would be leaning towards a 60 upgrade instead.
The l/s portion of the ECTED is clutch based. Clutches tend to wear out and need to be replaced. Just something to keep in mind. [COLOR="#FF0000"]that's interesting and a valid point. I had an Eaton E Locker in my old jeep and though this was pretty similar in design minus the part Limited Slip and then being able to lock fully/COLOR]
There have been quite a few posts about front 35sp shafts only being 35sp for like 6 inches, then tapering down for the rest of the length. May not be as big of a strength improvement there as you expect. (?)I get the taper and have read that but also it was my understanding it did help less twisting and breaking of teeth
Both use stock hubs/balljoints/brakes/etc. Lot of money to spend to 'upgrade' the axle, while keeping known weak points. that thought popped into my head but if I can drop in a say 4500 nicely built 44 and then drop less then 800 bucks to regear the back its a few $$$ cheaper then the work that needs to be done to make a 60 work up front, buy new rims and then still have to regear the rear
I have a pr44. It has been great, no problems at all. But, I got it years ago when they first came. None of the new aftermarket options were available, and people were still working out the kinks on junkyard builds. If I were in the market today, I would be leaning towards a 60 upgrade instead.
JK Newbie
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 52
Likes: 0
From: Los Angeles, Ca
JK Super Freak
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 1,181
Likes: 2
If I was shelling out 4K+ I would most certainly have a locker over a limited slip IE: Arb or eaton and I would rather have rcvs over conventional axleshafts that have some bind to them. Being able to turn and romp on it would be nice.
JK Freak
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 782
Likes: 3
From: Pittsburgh, Pa
G2 = China shit. ProRock = American made.
ProRock has the Unlimited housing with additional caster that you absolutely desire.
ProRock has the stronger tubes.
The G2 is less in every way. If I were (and I did) spend that money, it would be on the best of the options, the ProRock.
ProRock has the Unlimited housing with additional caster that you absolutely desire.
ProRock has the stronger tubes.
The G2 is less in every way. If I were (and I did) spend that money, it would be on the best of the options, the ProRock.
Trending Topics
Thread Starter
JK Newbie
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 53
Likes: 0
From: Williamstown, NJ
Im pretty sure G2 is made in California and G2 offers caster adjustments also.
G2 = China shit. ProRock = American made.
ProRock has the Unlimited housing with additional caster that you absolutely desire.
ProRock has the stronger tubes.
The G2 is less in every way. If I were (and I did) spend that money, it would be on the best of the options, the ProRock.
ProRock has the Unlimited housing with additional caster that you absolutely desire.
ProRock has the stronger tubes.
The G2 is less in every way. If I were (and I did) spend that money, it would be on the best of the options, the ProRock.
JK Freak
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 782
Likes: 3
From: Pittsburgh, Pa
Any time I hear G2/Smittybilt/Tranamerican/Rubicon Express and all of the TransAmerican brands, I assume right off the bat that it is china junk. Anything owned by Trans tends to be lowest bidder. Not that it's all junk, but anything with moving parts coming from Trans scares me. Bumpers are all 3/16" steel, so cheap is king on that stuff. In this case, G2 may actually have an American made center casting and the assembly put together in Commifornia. I'm shocked, and glad to see that. While Commifornia isn't exactly America, it's better than over sea imports.