gear manufacture strength
#1
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gear manufacture strength
5:13 or .38s in d44s. seems they like to eat themselves regardless of make. With the current build pr60s are not in the budget until the d44s destruct. have to go to a 5:something gear. Real world suggestions only, no fanboy drama.
#2
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Exactly what he said.
The more critical part is the quality of the installation rather than the ratio. When you get to either the 5.13 v. 5.38 you are really splitting hairs. The pinion diameter difference is so minute that if you actually break a 5.13 set you would more than likely have an issue with the 5.38.
I just added 5.38 gears to mine a few weeks ago and I waffled on the same decision. I also waffled between the 1310 and 1350 U-joints in a driveshaft and decided to go with the 1310 for the mere fact that I wanted the u-joint to be the weak link not the gears. I think the 1350 u-joints are awesome but there has to be a fusable link in the drivetrain somewhere. I also doubt very seriously I would ever even come close to breaking a 1310 joint.
Mike.
The more critical part is the quality of the installation rather than the ratio. When you get to either the 5.13 v. 5.38 you are really splitting hairs. The pinion diameter difference is so minute that if you actually break a 5.13 set you would more than likely have an issue with the 5.38.
I just added 5.38 gears to mine a few weeks ago and I waffled on the same decision. I also waffled between the 1310 and 1350 U-joints in a driveshaft and decided to go with the 1310 for the mere fact that I wanted the u-joint to be the weak link not the gears. I think the 1350 u-joints are awesome but there has to be a fusable link in the drivetrain somewhere. I also doubt very seriously I would ever even come close to breaking a 1310 joint.
Mike.
#4
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Unless something has changed very recently, most are still coming out of the same overseas factory. The only US made JK gears that I am aware of are the 4.88's, for d44's only, by US Gear. So, if you are looking for something other than that specific set, just compare prices and warranties and get whatever looks good.
That said, G2 has had some very positive reviews lately for the ease of setup when compared to other brands.
That said, G2 has had some very positive reviews lately for the ease of setup when compared to other brands.
#5
JK Super Freak
Originally Posted by nachorubicon
also was asking whos gear set seems to be a little better quality.
#6
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Why are you considering 5.13 or 5.38 gears? With your 2012 Rubicon, I'd guess that you would only need 4.88 gears at most. The 2012 has the power and the 4.88 gears are stronger. If I change gears, running 4.10 gearing now with my 35" tires, I'd do 4.56 or 4.88 depending on whether I was running 37" tires most of the time or sticking with 35" ones. Your hwy rpms will be crazy high with 5.13 or 5.38 gears. You will be running over 2700 or 2800 rpm with 37" tires cruising to Denver. The rpms will be even higher with 35" tires. Even climbing Ute Pass to Woodland Park or going up Pikes Peak won't require those gears. With the Rubicon transfer case gearing, you will probably be crawling in 4th gear or higher when in 4L with those gears. I know you are at 6000 feet elevation, but is that an issue for a 2012?
As to what gear manufacturer, I've heard good things about Yukon.
As to what gear manufacturer, I've heard good things about Yukon.
Last edited by bo9roadking; 01-12-2012 at 05:44 AM.
#7
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Running 4.88s on 37s with a 6spd and extremely happy with the performance on and off road. Actually I'm really glad I didn't gear any lower (numerically higher) it's already a crawling beast (rubicon transfer case) so wouldn't have been worth it. I'm running pretty heavy too with all steel bumpers, sliders, spare, jack, etc.
Yukon gears from Northridge but don't have enough miles/trails on them to vouch for them yet.
Yukon gears from Northridge but don't have enough miles/trails on them to vouch for them yet.