Got me some 37" now I need some input with rubbing
#1
JK Freak
Thread Starter
Got me some 37" now I need some input with rubbing
I have made the jump from 33's to 37's and I absolutely love it, but I am running into some issues with the rear wheel rubbing on the wheel well when doing minor flexing. Front wheels rub a bit when full turn, but spacers are going in this weekend. With all the weight from the rear bumper, Spare Tire, Jack and basket, those rear springs sagged about and inch or so. This is were the Guru's that have ran or are running 37's can give me a hand or some other alternatives. Should I stick some coil spacers in the rear or should I do a 1 or 1.25 body lift to move the Body higher up? Do i need to extend my bump stops with either of these two choices?
Will be posting pic's later, don't have any on me right now.
Quick Jeep background
2012 JKU Automatic (Sport)
4 inch Mopar lift
Gusset and Truss done on front axle.
Tires are 37 Toyos MT on 17 inch American eagle rims (Don't remember offset, but no issues here)
Front and rear Smitty built front and rear bumpers (Full spare sitting on that rear bumper)
This is what I have done so far.
1. I have cut the fenders flares (Front and rear)
2. I have cut and rolled the rear pinch seem so I gained about 1.5 inches of clearing.
Things still needed to be done
1. Re gearing
2. Rear truss (peace of mind)
Will be posting pic's later, don't have any on me right now.
Quick Jeep background
2012 JKU Automatic (Sport)
4 inch Mopar lift
Gusset and Truss done on front axle.
Tires are 37 Toyos MT on 17 inch American eagle rims (Don't remember offset, but no issues here)
Front and rear Smitty built front and rear bumpers (Full spare sitting on that rear bumper)
This is what I have done so far.
1. I have cut the fenders flares (Front and rear)
2. I have cut and rolled the rear pinch seem so I gained about 1.5 inches of clearing.
Things still needed to be done
1. Re gearing
2. Rear truss (peace of mind)
#2
Do you have rear upper and lower control arms? If so, you should be xble to push the rear axle back and then adjust your pinion. With 4" and cut flares, you shouldn't have any rubbing issues unless your axle is too far forward.
sent from my work leash
sent from my work leash
#3
JK Newbie
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: MS Gulf Coast
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Adjustable Control Arms will allow you to extend your wheelbase a little to clear the tires and adjust your pinion as stated above but remember, if you extend your wheelbase even an inch, you may need a new driveshaft...
#4
sent from my work leash
#5
where exactly are you rubbing? I run a 2.5" coil lift with a heavy rear bumper and spare, and I don't rub anywhere with 2.5" bumpstops and 4.75" of backspacing.
You are most likely going to need some more sheet metal trimming.
You are most likely going to need some more sheet metal trimming.
#6
JK Freak
Thread Starter
Thank you all for your input and suggestions. I don't have adjustable track arm (Upper or Lower). I can't trim anymore since i will be cutting into the tub body. I have rolled the 2 inch lip on the fender well all the way. I think i might need longer bump stops. I lifted it on blocks today about 12 inches and did still had an inch before it rubbed, about and 1.25 inches before the bump stop bottomed out. I have circled were it rubs. I will be taking it out this weekend and seeing it in action. What do you guys think about the spacer? a good or bad idea? Thanks again for your input.
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#9
JK Freak
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: huntington beach CA
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I agree that you can cut more than you did. If you are affraid of the hole in the tub fill it with JB Weld,, then Plasti dip! The right way to correct your issue is adjustable control arms.
#10
Like these guys said, you can cut much more off. Its packed with insulating foam so you are able to cover the holes with JB quite easily. It'll keep all the road grime and debris out of the hole