Surf City Dan

Adjustable control arms are the way to go. This will allow you to increase your wheelbase back to stock, centering your axle in the wheel wells. Mine is only a 3 inch lift on 37's and once I did this the rubbing was gone. I did the control arms after cutting the pinch seams and fenders.

Bonedoc

x2 on the adjustable control arms. This really is the correct way to fix it. Yes cutting is the cheapest but personally, I hate cutting my JK and won't if there is another option. The control arms will allow you to correct your pinion angle and most importantly re-center your rear tire in the rear wheel well. This should solve your clearance issue.
It says you have a 4" mopar lift, I don't know much about that kit but I'm curious how they correct the steering geometry issues up front with stock arms. Did they install cam bolts? Also someone mentioned your driveshafts. Did that kit come with new ones? Your stock 4 dr. driveshaft should be plenty long enough for a 4" lift and recentering the rear axle as there are other manufacturers out there selling kits of that height with adjustable arms using the stock shaft. A new rear driveshaft is likely to be in your future though and you will need adjustable arms, atleast one set( upper or lower) to adjust your pinion angle.

NewOldSchool

I agree, I don't want to cut anymore then I already did. I think I will be ordering the adjustable upper and lower control arms here soon. I don't think the front or rear are the stock arms, I have compared them to other jeeps and they are different looking. I think they just did not use adjustable ones to save on the cost.

Mopar claims you can fit 35 - 37 with the kit. 35's yes, 37 not without cutting and a lot of hammering. I had some time and went ahead and hammered that circled area just a bit more. I was able to find a spot last night to fully flex the rear. The wheel well comes to about 1/4 an inch to the tire but does not rub!!! I still want to get that rear axle centered.


Lift kits are new to me. This was the 1st Mopar lift kit installed at the dealership for a 2012. I was the guinea pig, got the lift kit pretty much next to nothing including the rims. Stock rims did not fit the lift kit , the rear right rim was hitting the sway bar if i remember right, Chrysler asked the dealer to change the rims out. I have included the specs of the lift kit at the bottom. They also replaced the front drive shaft with an aftermarket one to clear the exhaust loop and added a spacer to the loop as well. The rear drive shaft is stock, but might be changing that later down the road if needed. Break lines are extended and still have plenty of give when fully flexed. Steering stabilizer was relocated as well and a beefier one installed.

Thank you all for your help again.


2) front coil spring 01-561
(2) rear coil spring 06-5702
(2) front compression travel dampener 07-5702
(2)rear compression travel dampener 55-01-5704
(1) front track bar
(1) front brake hose relocation
(1) bracket, driver side
front brake hose relocation bracket, passenger side
rear brake hose relocation
(1) rear track bar brace
(2) eccentric cam bolt assembly
(2) compression travel pad
(2) stabilizer bar link, rear
(1) parking brake cable relocation
bracket, steering stabilizer-to-tie rod
bracket, steering stabilizer-to-axle
steering stabilizer cylinder

NewOldSchool

Here are some pic's of last night's flexing.

mpkelley20

I'm not a suspension expert but I'm wondering what size bumpstops are you currently using? When I installed my RK 3.5" lift, I was asked what size tires I was planning on running as that would determine what size bumpstops to use. I assume that maybe I would have gotten longer bumpstops had I said 37's. With my 35's, I still get some flare rub at full flex (stock flares). If I move to 37's I would definitley need to go with flat flares and probably consider going with a different bumpstop.

Also, with regard to using control arms to push your axle back....My RK lift did this (the X factor) but it also required me to move my sway bar back 1" (the entire axle was pushed back 1") in order to keep my sway links in the proper angle.

Maybe Dirtman can chime in (look up his thread on Lifts as it is very helpful) or someone like him. I just wouldn't start buying and moving stuff until you know more about it. You should know what arms you currently have with your lift, what all your specs are from an alingment and your pinion angles on driveshafts, etc... Once you have all that it might be easier to figure out what is the best method of fixing the rubbing issue.


edit** and from your pictures, can you explain where you are getting rubbing? All I see is a potential for rubbing on your slider. Is that the issue?

D_engel

I have no problems stuffing my 37's with stock control arms. Running 2.5" bumpstops and I don't rub anywhere.


Just remember if you push the axle back, you may end up rubbing the rear pinch seam. Cutting to fit big tires is all part of the game

Bonedoc

Not true...do you realize how far you would have to move that axle back to hit the rear pinch seam or create a contact issue? I'm sure it is an issue when stretching a 2 dr and if someone wanted to stretch a 4dr it would be an issue but many other things would come into play long before you would hit that rear seam such as spring perch misalignment or tracbar travel clearance.

Also moving the axle back an inch will not cause a problem with your factory swaybar location. I have a RK 5.5" lift and my rear swaybar is in its factory location. Now if you have the RK kit with the 3 link rear set up that is a different story but far from the norm..or required.
I agree with the bumpstop though. With a 3-4" lift 35 or 37" tires will fit when at normal ride height but different bumpstops are needed to keep the tires from traveling to far. This can also be remedied with the addition of flat fenders or trimming your factory ones. My 5.5" kit easy clears 37s and with flat fenders it would easily clear 40s without any additional bumpstops or any trimming of fenderwells with the tire centered in the wheelwell

D_engel

What part is not true? I've had my jeep fully stuffed and that 37 fits perfectly within the wheel well without making contact anywhere. However id have to assume based on what I've experienced with my jeep that if I push the axle back another 3/4", it will make contact. Every jeep is set up differently which is exactly why I state he MAY run into an issue, not that it is going to occur definitively.

You also contradict yourself in your post stating that making contact with the rear seam is in fact an issue when stretching either a 2 or 4 door. Yes, other factors do come into play, but I don't see spring perch alignment or trackbar clearance being an issue before my tire would contact my pinch seam. It is already very tight back there so I don't see a need to push it back in anyway.

Now my setup is very different from yours or the OP, but I have decided to contribute my personal experience to the matter to let him know what issues he may or may not encounter.

mpkelley20

I have the 3.5" X factor and it pushed the axle back 1". If I left the rear sway bar in it's stock location, the angle of the links was horrible. The instructions for the install stated to drill holes exactly 1" back and reinstall sway bar (which I did). The links are now straight.

I'm not familiar with the 5.5" lift (my wife would never be able to get into my Jeep!) but I know the instructions I had listed different lengths for the 3.5" X factor vs the 3.5" non X-Factor.

Edit*** Just looked...yeah...my xfactor lenghts are over 1" longer than non-Xfactor. I'm wondering if the 5.5" lift deals with it a different way?

Mack0092

I have the same lift as you on my 13' JKU, also running 37's and had to deal with the rubbing in the rear. I took a saw, cut the seam, filled it with bondo, and then painted it and bed lined it.