Help! with pics :)
lengthening the lower control arms does increase caster. are you sure that your holes are not wallowed out at all? take of the track bar and stick your bolt in there and see how much it moves. should be none, or a very very slight amount if any. fixed mine today and my shake sent away:
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/show....php?p=1001690
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/show....php?p=1001690
Those holes do look like mine. What kind of washer do I need to hold up to welding? Also shouldn't you get shouldered bolts so it does not do the same thing to the washers?
Yours was shaking over bumps right?
What length did you set them to? If you set them to about 23", you will be at 5-6 degrees caster. Perhaps your measuring is a little off?
I got some 12mm fender washers at ACE Hardware. They were a little bit smaller than the bolt, so I had to dremel out the middle of them to get a nice, snug fit. Basically, I would find the thickest hardened washers you can that either fit perfect or a tad too small.
As far as the shouldering goes, I'm not to concerened because I think the main problem was that I never checked the torque on my front track bar in 15k miles.
And yes, shaking over bumps at over 60mph, sometimes getting really violent. The only shake I have now if from the tire place doing a bad balancing job.
I got some 12mm fender washers at ACE Hardware. They were a little bit smaller than the bolt, so I had to dremel out the middle of them to get a nice, snug fit. Basically, I would find the thickest hardened washers you can that either fit perfect or a tad too small.
As far as the shouldering goes, I'm not to concerened because I think the main problem was that I never checked the torque on my front track bar in 15k miles.
And yes, shaking over bumps at over 60mph, sometimes getting really violent. The only shake I have now if from the tire place doing a bad balancing job.
What length did you set them to? If you set them to about 23", you will be at 5-6 degrees caster. Perhaps your measuring is a little off?
I got some 12mm fender washers at ACE Hardware. They were a little bit smaller than the bolt, so I had to dremel out the middle of them to get a nice, snug fit. Basically, I would find the thickest hardened washers you can that either fit perfect or a tad too small.
As far as the shouldering goes, I'm not to concerened because I think the main problem was that I never checked the torque on my front track bar in 15k miles.
And yes, shaking over bumps at over 60mph, sometimes getting really violent. The only shake I have now if from the tire place doing a bad balancing job.
I got some 12mm fender washers at ACE Hardware. They were a little bit smaller than the bolt, so I had to dremel out the middle of them to get a nice, snug fit. Basically, I would find the thickest hardened washers you can that either fit perfect or a tad too small.
As far as the shouldering goes, I'm not to concerened because I think the main problem was that I never checked the torque on my front track bar in 15k miles.
And yes, shaking over bumps at over 60mph, sometimes getting really violent. The only shake I have now if from the tire place doing a bad balancing job.
I am gunna try this but with shouldered bolts so I dont wallow out the washers. Do you think those welds will hold up to all the stress put on them?
Did you notice shaking over bumps on local roads as well? Mine is over even the slightest bump. Feels like my tires are made of iron, every bump is being passed through to the wheel, but that might be cause I torqued the shit out of the trackbar.
I am gunna try this but with shouldered bolts so I dont wallow out the washers. Do you think those welds will hold up to all the stress put on them?
I am gunna try this but with shouldered bolts so I dont wallow out the washers. Do you think those welds will hold up to all the stress put on them?
OK there really has to be more to this then just wallowed bolt holes. I have an 08 with 35,000 Klm, my Daily Driver on the highway no less then 70 miles commuting per day. I've had the TF BB on it since about 3,000 klm and 35" ProComps since 15,000. On last inspection both front and rear trackbar holes were wallowed, rear trackbar was noticebly loose so I re-torqued. Even with the rear track bar loose I had "NO DW". As for the front, 4-5 days after I installed my BB I noticed a clunk in the front end, on inspection I noticed the nut had fallen off the front upper trackbar bolt (can you say sloppy) and yet no DW from that either. So what I am saying is there is got to be something else wrong there. I suggest putting those stock control arms back on. Why have adjustables if you didn't lift it. I was under the impression that due to the angle and mount placement you had to shorten the lower control arms to increase the caster after a lift.
OK there really has to be more to this then just wallowed bolt holes. I have an 08 with 35,000 Klm, my Daily Driver on the highway no less then 70 miles commuting per day. I've had the TF BB on it since about 3,000 klm and 35" ProComps since 15,000. On last inspection both front and rear trackbar holes were wallowed, rear trackbar was noticebly loose so I re-torqued. Even with the rear track bar loose I had "NO DW". As for the front, 4-5 days after I installed my BB I noticed a clunk in the front end, on inspection I noticed the nut had fallen off the front upper trackbar bolt (can you say sloppy) and yet no DW from that either. So what I am saying is there is got to be something else wrong there. I suggest putting those stock control arms back on. Why have adjustables if you didn't lift it. I was under the impression that due to the angle and mount placement you had to shorten the lower control arms to increase the caster after a lift.
I also out rubi springs and 3/4 spacers on and was led to believe that/ lower control arms would give me a little more caster hence a nicer ride even stock. I didnt want *6 like lifted Jeeps, I just wanted more than stock, like 4.6 or 5.
I was told by everyone get adj. lowers. I did, I set them a little further out than stock but for some reason my caster is 3.
As for the poster a ways back in this thread talking about the toe-out rather then toe-in. I will agree, as four wheel drive quads are aligned with 1/4" toe-out to minimize jittering at speed.
Ok again for the cheap seats your caster is off. You can not fix this at home. Take it to the shop (a quality one like Grubbs) and have it aliened. This it the reason people don’t believe in dw because if the alignment is done correctly and your tires are balanced you will not have this problem. Ex. ever have a shopping cart with a shaking tire. It’s because the caster is off.


