Originally Posted by Mark Doiron
(Post 498537)
One on my JK stripped out after getting new wheels, tires and lug nuts. I was reinstalling the old lug nuts because the garage sold me a four wheel set and they were a different size and used a different lock than my spare. On top of that, because they were larger, the tools I had to remove the tires would not work because I needed new, thin wall tools especially designed for removing lug-nuts (like a cross bar that I had isn't designed for that purpose!). So, I said to heck with Gorilla Nuts and reinstalled the stock lugs and Mopar locking nuts. One of the Gorilla Nuts would not remove. I was the person who'd installed it, and I knew I'd torqued it properly. And it went on easy as pie. And I was really afraid I'd break the stud trying to remove it. I even went to a wheel shop but they refused to work on it: They didn't want to be blamed for damaging the wheel. Anyway, I returned home and sprayed it with WD-40 and really applied the muscle and a long breaker bar. The lug nut finally came off. And there were less than two threads that were stripped on the stud, but the Gorilla Nut was shredded. So, I used a rethreading tool to restore the stud threads and have a good six or seven turns of the stock lug nut engaging. Decided that was safe. Bottom line: Gorilla Nuts are soft and easily damaged. I won't ever buy them again.
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Shop replaced my stripped wheel stud...
...just didn't have the time nor the inclination working on my own to try the replacement myself, so I brought I brought it to my local shop and they had the stud replaced in about 20 minutes. Cost me $75 for 1/2 hr labor and the stud/nut.
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Factory stripped my stud...Can I do local driving on four lugs?
I wish I could blame mine on a tire shop....mine was stripped on the assembly line. Just discovered it today as I was doing the first tire rotation on my 2011 Rubi Unlimited. Would really like to get hold of the impact wrenching jerk who puts the right-front wheels onto new Wranglers.....
Do you think I can get away with local driving on 4 lug nuts until I can replace the stud?? |
Originally Posted by Rangerlicious
(Post 2683248)
Do you think I can get away with local driving on 4 lug nuts until I can replace the stud??
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If you don't know or want to save a few minutes at the dealer here are the P/N
Front Stud P/N 68003282AA Rear Stud P/N 68003287AA Best- john |
I stripped a couple of wheel nuts - one locking, one regular 'capped' nut - and the special socket tool (piece of junk tool) earlier this year. The locking one was made by McGard. They were all over-tightened by the shop that swapped out my wheels last winter. I tried banging on another socket, those fancy nut removal sockets, voodoo magic, willing the nuts to loosen...
I ended up drilling through the locking nut and stud. Once I got deep enough I torqued the wheel side to side and broke the stud off. Drove in another truck down to the dealership to get another wheel stud and replace it on the Jeep. I don't use locking nuts any more. If someone wants to steal my wheels they can have at it! I just don't want to deal with that frustration again. I also went out a bought solid capped wheel nuts instead of those metal capped ones that can distort when torqued tight. I will be the only one swapping wheels around, and will only use a manual torque wrench vs. air drive impact. |
Originally Posted by jgobbels
(Post 2683597)
If you don't know or want to save a few minutes at the dealer here are the P/N
Front Stud P/N 68003282AA ( 2.50) Rear Stud P/N 68003287AA ( 9.50) Best- john |
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/show...ud+replacement
Here you go. If the other link isn't detailed enough, use this one. Same thing happened to me about 2 weeks ago, takes 10 minutes tops to fix. :thumbsup: |
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