HN


This is an ongoing thread and I will be adding thoughts and information to my build . Been a member here for over a year and I still don't know all I need to post,attach pics in the right place and edit so please bear with me. I wish someone could explain to me how to move pics around in threat where they should be placed using an iPad. Well I know a lot of people have read this but after a week of posting this I finally figured this out.

I just finished my Hemi install in December and have driven it 3,000 miles. Have had some problems with p/ steering leaks but I am working them out. Had lots of problems with codes and transmission in Limb mode . Worked on it for 8 months . I did a lot of custom work most people wouldn't have done. If someone wants to do this they need go to Todds web site @ Jeep speed shop. He has lots of videos on this.

It's getting about 13 to 15 mpg in town and 16 to 18 on the road if I stay off the pedal. I debated S/C and headers but decided on the Hemi and it is the best way. Nothing sounds like a Hemi . At 70 it will raise the front end a foot . You pull up beside another jk and it rumbles like an army tank. Everthing is a tight fit and I will elabrate on this later. There are 1/4 inch clearances in many places that would have caused abrasion and rattles on older vehicles . This motor is so smooth you cannot see it move or feel it move. The body moves with the motor so there is nothing vibrating.

When pulling jk motor I cut the Y pipe with a plasma and dropped the whole exhaust . Took about 3 hours to pull it after everything was unhooked. Cut the frame mounts with plasma,used 4 inch grinder to dress everything up and then weilded in new mounts with the mig. Cleaned everything up,taped it off and painted . Took about a half day.






When installing motor I placed short 2x4 blocks between the motor block and chains to keep the chains from busting plastic intake. I lifted the motor,transmission,and transfercase higher than the jeep frame and pushed jeep under the transfer case. Then I lowered the transfer case with the load lever that I made . ( I made it out of a 1/2X4X26 inch piece of flat steel. Used a 5/8 inch all thread rod and pieces of gas pipe weilded to flat steel. Drilled the rod on front end and drove a doal pin through a 13/16 nut that Turned the rod while the rear floated.Cut a 1 & 1/4 inch rod and taped threads for a worm gear that is sandwiched between two flat pieces of steel. Made a roller bearing out of 2 prices of pipe that went through the bolt that holds the plates together.You can see how pitted the plate was . This was all just scrap metal .Worked great .)


Lowered the motor on jeep frame and un hooked rear chain . Then I placed a motorcycle jack under transmission and carefully pushed the jeep forward while prying wherever needed for clearances. Took 4 of us crawling all around,under, and on top of motor about 4 hours to get in place . Used hammers,crow bars jacks, lifts,and blocks to position everything.



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https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/modi...instal-332008/


Sent from my iPad







This is how I secured the steering wheel from turning while I had the steering shaft out grinding out the hole. You can see I used a ratchet strap that I ratcheted to the top of the windshield. I did this before I installed the motor. Take a plastic coffee can lid and tape it to the inside to keep meatal shavings from getting inside the jeep.I grinded about a 1/3 of an inch to ward the power booster.




It's really a hard job on the 2 door because clearances are really tight. While waiting on parts I cleaned up everything .I painted all the engine bay and covered the firewall with insulated aluminum tape.










I installed an atlas transfer case. This was really a hard job. Advanced Adapters sent me an adapter plate with about 30 bolt holes in it. You have to clock the transfer case to certain degrees. This is fine and dandy.. But everything must clear. I bolted the X-member to the jeep and measured every inch to the floorboard and chalked the clearance on the X-member. Unbolted the X-member and bolted it to the transmission adapter and measured the clearance I marked on the X-member.















I called A.A. Several times and I know they thought I was crazy but it just wouldn't fit . I called Todd several times and he said it would fit. Todd was VERY helpful. He is hard to get a hold of.I clocked that thing ever way I could and it would not clear my measurements. I worked on this 2 weeks , got so mad I took a week off and went motorcycling. I finally decided on 7 degrees but I had to cut a 3/4 inch notch in the wielded wedge plate that Todd makes. If you look hard you can see the notch I cut in the plate on the left side of the plate. AA did not send drive shaft bolts or thread size and the threads stripped. I went to a bolt supply and installed grade 10 bolts with lock grip nuts.


This is how I determined the degree of angle.

It took 4 of us 4 hours to install everything in the jeep. Guess what? The transfercase was against the driver side floorboard! You could not lower the case any lower than 7 degrees because it would not clear the plates . I told Todd and Chris that somebody needs to re-design these adapter plates. Todd I think it would work better to weild a 3/8 inch Short Z iron with gusets and eliminate the 2 skid plates.The problem on 2 doors is the transmission sets on the rear of the plates bolted to the Xmember lifting the case to close to the floorboard. Looking back 4 months on this jk Hemi build , installing this Atlas transfer case was the hardest part of this project and it should not have been this way. Let me say that it is a very good Tcase. I used the 3.8 gear ratio and in low range low gear it holds th jk down steep grades to 2 mph. With the 6 cylinder it would run away up to 20 mph. I like the transfer case. If I did this again the first thing to do is Lift the body 2 inches because this is the only way I see it can fit with Todds plates.

My only option was to lift the body! I already had a 3 inch suppension lift. I did not want to do this. Now I have 5 inches plus 33 inch tires. No way can I now go to 35's without using a step latter to board.Well lifting the body is no picnic and this took another week getting parts and work. Now I had to measure and order drive shafts. This took another couple weeks.

Lifting the body caused more problems making it fit. A one inch lift would have been perfect but I could not find one. It stretched the brake lines out of the holders and suspended them in the air loose. I had to instal a steering extension that threw the steering shaft back into the motor head. I fixed it by placing the extension at the steering box instead of the ujoint. It would not fit inside the square slot and this took a couple hours milling out a deeper square with a thin file. I worked a half a day relocating the steering shaft .
AA did not send bolts or thread size and I don't want to talk about that anymore!

This is the output senscor I had to replace.

Let's talk about the transmission a little.It was a rfe545 out of an Aspen I went over it will a fine tooth brush. I changed both filters. Mine had the long tube on the flat filter. I used black rtv and the gasket. I replaced the main seal on the adpter. I also put new valves that the lines snap in. I cut and flared the front of the lines and run hose to the Napa cooler in front that fit in Todds brackets. When I first drove it it was stuck in limp mode. ( First and second gear). This drove me nuts! I thought I had a bad transmission, Talked to Todd a half dozen times and he said I had the wrong shifter. I order a new shifter and bracket. Come to find out I had the right bracket but the wrong shifter. It wouldn't let it shift higher than 3rd gear. But I discovered another problem! Somehow we broke the output sensor. You could not tell it because it was still in tac but bent . Had to order another one and this took a couple more days. P.T.L. It worked ! It took about 14 or 15 quarts to fill the transmission. You just have to keep checking it. The first time I started the motor it rattled the walls in my shop and neighbors a block away heard it with .my door shut.. I had to shut it off fast because transmission fluid was squirting everywhere. The cooler had a hairline crack in the top of it .This took a few more days to get another one.



The factory transmission plate clears the gas tank a 1/4 inch. Did I say this thing is tight! The passenger side motor head clears the firewall the with of a pinky finger. The A/C pump clears the steering sector a 1/2 inch. The steering shaft clears the power booster a half inch. The P/S bottle clears the cpm a 1/4 inch. The Air filter clears the fender a 1/4 inch. I can go on and on; did I say this thing is TIGHT! Nothing fits, you have to make everthing fit!

Let's talk about the power steering lines.I went to a local hydraulic shop and had the lines made. But they have so many fittings that were strong and big enough to fit a DC 9 cat that wouldn't fit in a tight space. I was able to use the high pressure line. I decided to use 7/16 inch compression fittings instead of hose clamps on the condenser lines.The low pressure line had adapter fittings from 5/8 to 1/2 to 7/16 which was 5 inches of fittings and there was no way all this junk would fit. (There is no such thing as a 5/8 to 7/16 inch fitting ) .So I cut the line in front of all that junk .I bought a blank 7/16 fitting and cut the bottom of the crimp with a 3 inch air cutt off wheel . This formed a bowl shape. I then cut a 1 and 1/2 inch piece of 5/8 inch 4130 aircraft tubing that I clamped together and tig weilded them in place. I then weilded a flare bevel on the end of the 5/8 tubing and pushed the hydraulic hose over it and clamped it together. Then I screwed the 7/16 inch compression fittings tight on the lines.This was a lot of work but it worked great.

On the pump I used the Hemi pump with the Hemi bottle. I used the fittings and spring out of the jeep pump and the jeep pulley which I had removed and installed on the truck pump.
I had lots of problems with power steering leaks. I first filled it with Napa fluid and it leaked . I then uphooked it at the condenser and drained it there. I filled it back up and it dripped tennis ball size spots in the morning. Talked to Todd and he said to use aft+4 fluid. Drained it again and filled it with aft+4 and this slowed it down some. It was hard to know just where it was leaking because it dripped on the differential and you can't see the pump. . Then it started leaking from the O-rings on the condenser. I changed out the o-rings with a/c nephreme ones and placed a thin washer between the o-ring and the line fitting. So far no leaks. Praise the Lord

Let's talk some about the a/c lines. I used my condenser to evaporate line off the jk. I had Todd to send me the other lines. I had to bend the evaporate line to the pump and the pump line to the condenser.
The way I bent the lines was to cut the radius out of a 1x4 on a band saw making a jig. I drew out the radius with a compas ,cut it out and nailed it to another board. Then I nailed a few nails around that board the width of the diameter of the a/c line to hold the line in place. I then took a heat gun and heated up the the lines and placed them between the nails and gently bent the lines around the cut radius shaped board. I would bend a little ,remove then reheat and bend some more till I had it fit.

I made the battery cables out of #4 copper wire. I soldered 3/8 copper pipe and mashed it in a vise and drilled the holes for the terminals . Dressed them up with a file. Easy job

I used the jeep alternator cable to the fuse box.

I used the jeep evap line.






For the fuel line I went to a local hot rod shop and purchased braided stainless fuel line and used A/N fittings with an inline filter at the engine connection for easier disconnects. In the lower picture you can see the clear Amsoil bottle I marked for the coolant bottle.



I used a larger aluminum raditor that Chris sent to me. I used a High performance flex fan and a chrome 3 inch fan shroud. I made a top seal out of the black plastic nylon material. I pray this keeps it cool ! The jk heater hoses stretched tighter than I liked so I got new truck Hemi hoses ; they fit so much better. The lower raditor hose that Todd lists I could not get to fit. I ended up using a universal flex type hose.





Overheating problems!
May 4 and its warming up down hear in Arkansas . It just doesn't like stop and go traffic. You can see the flex a lite 108 electric fan I just installed on top of the Napa transmission cooler. Transmission cooler doesn't get hot nor does the a/c condenser; the raditor does. I hope this electric fan will help push more air and assit the 1316 flex a lite manual flex fan.Today it hit 84 and she boiled almost a quart. It did ok till I parked it with the a/c running for 10 minutes.it reached 240 but only showed 3/4 on the gauge. I turned it off and let the electric fan run for 2 minutes and it cooled it down enough that I could drive it with a/c off till it cooled down.

I'm working on a better shroud.




5/11/16 these are some of the tools I used to modify the factory shroud. Decided to do this instead of making a new one. I had about 2 inches of clearance between the fan and raditor . Got the fan into raditor and cut it. Went ahead and finished the shroud then sent it to raditor shop for welding. I decided to change the o- rings on the p/s pump while waiting on it.
Notice the insta cure and insta set. This is some of the best stuff for small jobs I have used. Just form up what you want to bond then cut some fiberglass glass and aluminum wire then squeeze it over the material . Make sure it soaks into the fiberglass then squirt the insta set over it and watch it smoke. It will harden in 3 minutes ready to sand or cut . I just laid it over the raditor and cut the tabs and formed new ones to fit the raditor. Hopefully this will cool the motor! I PRAY it cools.




5/23/16

Well this finally fixed the cooling problems ; Praise the Lood... The new shroud made a big difference. I stopped at a friends house and was talking with the a/c on at 98 degrees . After several minutes I noticed the temp gauge was climbing up towards the 3/4 mark . I turned on the flex a lite electric fan and less than 2 minutes the temp gauge moved back to normal.








Now let's talk some about the preformance modifications I made. The truck Hemi has 400 hp which requires 629 cfm's of air. And the K& N I used allowed 800 cfm's. I made a ram cold air induction. I used Todds throttle body. Went to a pluming supply and got a 3 inch pvc with a 3/4 inch nipple in the middle that I used for the crankcase vent . I used the truck breather snorkel and cut the rubber scat hose with the air sencor in tac on a band saw to fit . I made the air box out of plastic nylon material which I riveted together with pop rivets into 3/4 X 1/8 inch aluminum angle. I then measured for the 3 inch pvc and cut its hole in the air box. Cut a one inch ring out of thin aluminum and riveted it with another two inch ring of rubber from a motorcycle inter tube for the air box seal. This left the pvc sticking out about an inch and a quarter for the air filter to fit on . It was a tight squeeze. At the top I had to heat the plastic nylon material with a heat gun and bend it around the heater hose. I left out the factory passenger side raditor seal and used this space and sealed iit up for the ram air inlet next to the headlight. Works great.

I used the grand Cherokee manifolds . Sent them off to Minnesota and had them ceramic coated with the black flat satin which is good for 2200 degrees. If I knew about having to lift the body 2 inches I would have used the truck manifolds. But they are heavier and more bulky . The GC manifolds has good flow and are good enough. I installed all new exhaust. I ran a 3 inch pipe out of the Y to a magnaflow cat that run into the single inlet magnaflow dual outlet muffler that exits at the rear bumper comers with chrome tips which sounds great but not that loud. How ever with the morning starts it has a loud growl.

Some of you may be interested in this; as of today 4/17/16 I have driven it 5,855 miles and used 374 gallons of gas : Ii'll do the math for you which is 15 .7 mpg. Much better than I thought it would be. And it is hard to stay off the pedal. The worst tank I got was 13 8 and the best I got was 285 miles on 15.5 gallons for 18.4 mpg. Now I have not driven a freeway trip on it so it should beat this . I have 3.73 gears with 33 inch Nito's.
These are a few of the codes that I had to deal with.

C2100
C100a
P0132
P0152
P0300
P0533
P0633
P1128
P1129

I am retired so I had lots of time to work on it and think about it. For a working man it would be better to buy everything from Todd in his kits. This would be a lot faster and It may have been cheaper. I've played with hot rods since the mid 60's and let me say that this is not an easy job. I climbed up in and out of that engine bay at least a hundred times . No telling how many times I crawled under it. Getting information when you don't know what to do is frustrating. Theres probably several ways one could do this. I am very meticulous in the way I like do do things and I try to think it out before doing anything. I'm slow but sure. I learned a lot and if I did it again I would do some things different which would be faster. If someone else decides to tackle this project I hope this helps you. If you have questions feel free to contact me .

After all this now I have a stupid low air pressure code and my headlights stay on when driving!


GW in Little Rock

 

One of my wheeling friends has a Hemi converted '07. He got it after the conversion had been completed. Has a number of issues the former Burnsville off road guys have to work out for him, but it's an amazing rig. Me and my minivan '09 soldier on......

 

Congrats on finishing up man. I finished mine in November. Used the JSS kit with a 2010 complete truck drop out. I did the body off swap. This makes it so much easier. I have had no issues to speak of. Only ones so far
1. After a couple months I was stalling at stop lights. Started back up fine every time. Added transmission fluid and has not happened since. Did a filter and fluid change during install and guess we did not add enough.
2. Got a CEL once for cat inefficiency. Tightened O2 sensors and have yet to get another.
3. Yesterday, cold in the am, PS fluid leaked out the PS cooler lines that were cut and joined to rubber hose with ratchet clamps. Tightened ratchet clamps and has not leaked again.
4. Rear tires seem to be wearing faster than normal. I hear this is common.

But congrats again.

 

I had 300 misfire codes and ran non-ethanol with sea foam for a 1,000 miles which cleared up the missing. Ethanol draws water when it sets and causes rust in the injectors.

I had 02 codes also. Mine was a bad weild on the top front of the cat. Do not do a smoke test . Start it up cold on a cold damp morning and you will see the leak. I actually felt mine.

I changed my fluid 3 times. Be sure to use aft + 4 fluid. I wish I hadn't used the cooler. I used the truck pump and resivor which holds a quart. It was a very tight fit. The cooler o-rings drove me crazy. I finally got nephreme a/c o- rings and put a thin washer between the line and the o-ring and I pray this has fixed it.

 

[QUOTE=Da20captain;4200426]Congrats on finishing up man. I finished mine in November. Used the JSS kit with a 2010 complete truck drop out. I did the body off swap. This makes it so much easier. I have had no issues to speak of. Only ones so far
1. After a couple months I was stalling at stop lights. Started back up fine every time. Added transmission fluid and has not happened since. Did a filter and fluid change during install and guess we did not add enough.
2. Got a CEL once for cat inefficiency. Tightened O2 sensors and have yet to get another.
3. Yesterday, cold in the am, PS fluid leaked out the PS cooler lines that were cut and joined to rubber hose with ratchet clamps. Tightened ratchet clamps and has not leaked again.
4. Rear tires seem to be wearing faster than normal. I hear this is common.

But congrats again.[/QUOTE

Also I did not use hose and clamps to the cut lines. I made compression hydraulic fittings. The hard part was there is no 7/16 to 5/8 fitting. So I tig- wielded a 5/8 air craft tubbing to the hydraulic fitting that I cut the crimp part away then Use the raditor clamp to the hose and tubing.

 

I used a 2011 truck with aspine rfe 545 . Sea foam should clear it up if not check the filter.

 

I had no way to lift body so I pull the
3.8 ,transmission,adapter and transfer case all together. I also installed it that way.

 

Had a lot of problems with transmission going into limb mode. Had the wrong cable shifter and some how I broke the plug on the side when installing. Fixed this and it works fine now.

 

Glad you are gettin it all worked out. I feel pretty fortunate to have had as little as I have had give me shit. I have wondered if it is because I had a complete drop out for. The same vehicle. I also ended up using the truck pump. The JK pulley was too big. In order to get the fittings from the Jk pump I mangled the JK pulley anyway.

 

I did use the jk spring and fitting. And used the jk pulley but I used the truck pump and the truck bottle attached to it. It did not fit so I whittled away the PCM bracket with a drimmle . I put the engine hoist on the passanger side and pulled the motor that way while prying between the steering sector and the a/c pump for clearance . I got about a half inch clearance . Should have filed out the frame mount holes a quarter inch more.