Renegade

I agree that upgrading prior to breakage is a good idea, but I've been looking at the Reel 1310 OEM replacement driveshafts. With this setup I could carry my stock shafts as spares, and replace them quickly on the trail without many tools if I broke a u-joint. Does anyone know of an advantage to changing yokes if you are sticking with the 1310's? It seems to me that with the stock round flanges, you would not be risking breaking as quickly if your yoke was on a rock while the shaft was turning.

aaholland

how much do they cost???

b1pig

I'm interested to see where this goes. If a U-joint snaps it is just a trip to the parts store...

but interestingly enough, JP Magazine ran an article on U-joint and stub axle stress testing. During the test, a maker of a replacement birfield unit for Toyotas placed one of his aftermarket units in the machine and it dominated everything else in the test, including the D-60 joints and stub axles. (the name of the manufacturer escapes me at the moment.. and the mag isnt handy.. but he's a regular member on Pirates....) Their prime advantage over standard U-joints is that they maintain their max strength all the way to their max twist or travel.. where with u-joints, the more angle you put on em, the weaker they are. granted these were axle shafts, and not driveshafts... but the principle is the same.

Kind of interesting, but I'm like the next guy... I dont want to be stuck in the middle of nowhere with busted stuff. Not wishing bad things on people, but it takes people breaking stuff for us all to learn how far you can push it.

Renegade

I think you are referring to the Longfield Toyota axles. And yes, they are very strong. The Reel 1310 OEM replacement shafts are listed to $385.

bonedigger

$385 is for the rear only for front and rear list is $1126 that is from www.northridge4x4.com
I am going to have a very reputable local shop build mine for me they have done work for me in the past on other jeeps and have done excellent work
where ever you get your drivelines from I think the peace of mind that if you break it you can get replacement parts for it anywhere and fix it is worth what ever price you pay

Renegade

WOW! I hadn't noticed that. I figured that $385 would get you either one you wanted. That means that the front is $741??? They're crazy!

Renegade

I just looked at their site again and it is not calculating the prices correctly. 1310 CV's are $355 ea, 1350 CV HD's are $510 and $525 ea, and the 1310 CV OEM's are $385 ea. For some reason they have their site adding the cost of the base CV to the cost of each one.

bonedigger

oh that is a much more reasonable price
is that some sort of core charge maybe?

Renegade

If I had to guess I would say that their web designer goofed. I have never heard of a core charge for a driveshaft, and they aren't re-using any of the old parts.

onsafari

OK are you talking about front axle CV's or driveshaft joints now......the original discussion is on Driveshafts and now we are on an axle tangent....LOL