JKS J spec or Rancho lift
03-19-2019, 11:38 AM
#11
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Think about those two sentences. Lift 1 is out because it doesn't come with a component, but then you ask if you can add components to lift 2? You can add components to ANY lift. At ANY time.
Take what you are reading as suggestions, not mandatory fact. If you want to slap 4" spacers on top of the coils and absolutely no other components, go for it. It'll drive. Just don't expect to be happy with the results. What you are reading are experiences from people who have built these JK's and experienced many of the negatives associated with lifting. Listen to the advice, research the issues, then form your own opinions about what is right for you.
Take what you are reading as suggestions, not mandatory fact. If you want to slap 4" spacers on top of the coils and absolutely no other components, go for it. It'll drive. Just don't expect to be happy with the results. What you are reading are experiences from people who have built these JK's and experienced many of the negatives associated with lifting. Listen to the advice, research the issues, then form your own opinions about what is right for you.
I do listen and I I do try and research, but some people have less tolerance for a lifted Jeep than others. That was my thinking when I posted. But I also don’t know enough about the JK platform yet so I wanted ask opinions.
Thanks for the help I really do appreciate it.
03-19-2019, 11:56 AM
#12
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Have you considered the cost of a regear to go along with the 35's? You will probably also want a programmer/tuner to adjust the tire size in the computer (and the gear ratio, if you end up spending for those.)
Is it a rubicon? (4.10's were a non-rubicon option that year). Maybe 35's with 4.10's and a 4:1 t-case would be ok for offroad use? (no idea of the answer to that, it's just a general question.)
Is it a rubicon? (4.10's were a non-rubicon option that year). Maybe 35's with 4.10's and a 4:1 t-case would be ok for offroad use? (no idea of the answer to that, it's just a general question.)
03-19-2019, 12:13 PM
#13
Super Moderator
So I'll start with the standard response you're likely to see.
1. Please be sure to read this thread as it'll be helpful - https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/modified-jk-tech-2/my-thoughts-lifts-288269/
1. Please be sure to read this thread as it'll be helpful - https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/modified-jk-tech-2/my-thoughts-lifts-288269/
If you want to to go with a 3.5-4in lift for 35s, you add nothing but additional costs to do so. That is what everyone is trying to describe to you in the responses so far. On the JK, >3.5in of lift is the tipping point of having to add a bunch more components to address the problems that the additional lift causes, such as needing replacement control arms(8) all the way around, and steering flip kits, front/rear track bars and correction brackets, while at the same time those additional components and costs gain you nothing for additional offroad performance. They're just added costs for the additional 1.5in of lift which is not needed for 35s. With the 3.5-4in lift you only gain the additional ride height and the instability which comes with that additional height. The 3.5-4in lift height is better suited for clearing 37in tires. So if 37s are really your goal, then everyone can better tailor their responses around that but you said you intend to mount 35s. So which is it that you really want? 35s or 37s? You could go with the 3.5-4in lift if you plan to move to 37s down the road and some do that, in essentially planning ahead. However, that planning ahead does come at a lot of additional cost which will provide you no benefit when running 35s.
Hopefully, that helps to clear up what everyone is trying to explain to you. None of us discourage lifting Jeeps....we all have lifted Jeeps. The only thing we discourage is doing things foolishly that don't make any sense to what your goals are you're trying to achieve.
With 35s, in additon to the lift you will likely want to add additonal components such as a HD track bar, drag link, and tie rod since the weight of those 35s will make those components flex and cause the steering to not perform very well. Then there's the consideration of re-gearing the axles, as well as you will need to get a programmer to reprogram the new tire size into the computer so your speedo reads correctly and your transmission shifts properly. So before you go thinking you're saving some money going with 3.5-4in lift....you're really not, and you would be better off staying at that 3in or lower height range and focusing on adding those additional components that I just mentioned.
My JK has 35s with a 3in lift but it also has all those additional items added to the lift so that my speedo, trans, and steering work and feels right as well.
Last edited by Rednroll; 03-19-2019 at 12:28 PM.
03-19-2019, 12:34 PM
#14
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You seem to be stuck in the 3.5 to 4in lifts and it may be due to your familiarity with the TJ and unfamiliarity with the JK. In Jedg's 1st response he recommended reading through the top stickied threads. It doesn't seem you have done that.
Let me summarize a lot of that for you. You pick your tire size 1st , and then build your lift and suspension mod decisions around accommodating that tire size. You already mentioned wanting to clear 35s. For 35s on a JK, all is needed is a 2in-3in lift and you will have plenty of fender space to accommodate 35s. Now on a TJ you're looking at a lot more lift than 2-3inches of lift in being able to clear 35s, so throw that background knowledge out the door since it doesn't apply on the JK.
If you want to to go with a 3.5-4in lift for 35s, you add nothing but additional costs to do so. That is what everyone is trying to describe to you in the responses so far. On the JK, >3.5in of lift is the tipping point of having to add a bunch more components to address the problems that the additional lift causes, such as needing replacement control arms(8) all the way around, and steering flip kits, front/rear track bars and correction brackets, while at the same time those additional components and costs gain you nothing for additional offroad performance. They're just added costs for the additional 1.5in of lift which is not needed for 35s. With the 3.5-4in lift you only gain the additional ride height and the instability which comes with that additional height. The 3.5-4in lift height is better suited for clearing 37in tires. So if 37s are really your goal, then everyone can better tailor their responses around that but you said you intend to mount 35s. So which is it that you really want? 35s or 37s? You could go with the 3.5-4in lift if you plan to move to 37s down the road and some do that, in essentially planning ahead. However, that planning ahead does come at a lot of additional cost which will provide you no benefit when running 35s.
Hopefully, that helps to clear up what everyone is trying to explain to you. None of us discourage lifting Jeeps....we all have lifted Jeeps. The only thing we discourage is doing things foolishly that don't make any sense to what your goals are you're trying to achieve.
With 35s, in additon to the lift you will likely want to add additonal components such as a HD track bar, drag link, and tie rod since the weight of those 35s will make those components flex and cause the steering to not perform very well. Then there's the consideration of re-gearing the axles, as well as you will need to get a programmer to reprogram the new tire size into the computer so your speedo reads correctly and your transmission shifts properly. So before you go thinking you're saving some money going with 3.5-4in lift....you're really not, and you would be better off staying at that 3in or lower height range and focusing on adding those additional components that I just mentioned.
My JK has 35s with a 3in lift but it also has all those additional items added to the lift so that my speedo, trans, and steering work and feels right as well.
Let me summarize a lot of that for you. You pick your tire size 1st , and then build your lift and suspension mod decisions around accommodating that tire size. You already mentioned wanting to clear 35s. For 35s on a JK, all is needed is a 2in-3in lift and you will have plenty of fender space to accommodate 35s. Now on a TJ you're looking at a lot more lift than 2-3inches of lift in being able to clear 35s, so throw that background knowledge out the door since it doesn't apply on the JK.
If you want to to go with a 3.5-4in lift for 35s, you add nothing but additional costs to do so. That is what everyone is trying to describe to you in the responses so far. On the JK, >3.5in of lift is the tipping point of having to add a bunch more components to address the problems that the additional lift causes, such as needing replacement control arms(8) all the way around, and steering flip kits, front/rear track bars and correction brackets, while at the same time those additional components and costs gain you nothing for additional offroad performance. They're just added costs for the additional 1.5in of lift which is not needed for 35s. With the 3.5-4in lift you only gain the additional ride height and the instability which comes with that additional height. The 3.5-4in lift height is better suited for clearing 37in tires. So if 37s are really your goal, then everyone can better tailor their responses around that but you said you intend to mount 35s. So which is it that you really want? 35s or 37s? You could go with the 3.5-4in lift if you plan to move to 37s down the road and some do that, in essentially planning ahead. However, that planning ahead does come at a lot of additional cost which will provide you no benefit when running 35s.
Hopefully, that helps to clear up what everyone is trying to explain to you. None of us discourage lifting Jeeps....we all have lifted Jeeps. The only thing we discourage is doing things foolishly that don't make any sense to what your goals are you're trying to achieve.
With 35s, in additon to the lift you will likely want to add additonal components such as a HD track bar, drag link, and tie rod since the weight of those 35s will make those components flex and cause the steering to not perform very well. Then there's the consideration of re-gearing the axles, as well as you will need to get a programmer to reprogram the new tire size into the computer so your speedo reads correctly and your transmission shifts properly. So before you go thinking you're saving some money going with 3.5-4in lift....you're really not, and you would be better off staying at that 3in or lower height range and focusing on adding those additional components that I just mentioned.
My JK has 35s with a 3in lift but it also has all those additional items added to the lift so that my speedo, trans, and steering work and feels right as well.
I was stuck on the 3.5-4 because of my CJ,YJ,
TJ experience and like you said for the price of the Rancho lift with the arms it was a good deal.
Thanks again and please keep educating me I don’t get offended I just want to learn before I buy. A lot of this new stuff is confusing...different spring types, dual, linear, etc. The last time I lifted a coil spring Jeep Rubicon Express was the best lift out there lol. Now there are a ton of brands and each says their way is the best.
03-19-2019, 05:32 PM
#15
JK Super Freak
Sorry in advance for a long post:
But do plenty of research on the amount of lift people are actually getting from the different springs (people post that info all over the forum) different brands base their advertised lift heights on different weights for the Jeep (I.e. stock weight vs. armored). Teraflex even considers a hard top and full size 35in spare as added weight that they did not account for in their spring rates (at least according to the Teraflex rep I talked to when I didn't get the advertised height out of their springs). So if you have bumpers and armor, you will get less lift than if you don't. RK and Metal Cloak design their springs for armored up Jeeps, so if you don't have bumpers and stuff you may end up a bit tall. Old Man Emu has different spring rates depending on how heavy your Jeep is.
Just remember there are no good deals out there (only good vendors), if something is cheep there is a reason.
As far as vendors, if you want straight forward advice, and not just someone trying to sell you things, contact Marcus at River-City Offroad. He is a Jeeper, and won't steer you wrong. If you talk to him and he tells you what you are trying to do is stupid or a waste of money, you should listen.
TheDirtman's sticky notes and advice are spot on he really knows what he is talking about. Others in this post have given you excellent advise.
I'm running about 3-3.25 in of lift with 35s and full factory fenders. I have quite a bit of aftermarket stuff I've accumulated over the years (really need to update my profile, it is several months behind), my Jeep is heavy, about 700-800lbs above stock when loaded for wheeling. I have RK 2.5in 4door springs on a two door. I am not running a drag link flip, although I am right on the edge of needing one (didn't do it because I plan on adding some more weight down the road which will likely lower my lift a bit).
Anyway, there is a lot to consider when lifting a Jeep. But like others said, stay as low as you can while still accomplishing your goals.
Happy Jeeping.
But do plenty of research on the amount of lift people are actually getting from the different springs (people post that info all over the forum) different brands base their advertised lift heights on different weights for the Jeep (I.e. stock weight vs. armored). Teraflex even considers a hard top and full size 35in spare as added weight that they did not account for in their spring rates (at least according to the Teraflex rep I talked to when I didn't get the advertised height out of their springs). So if you have bumpers and armor, you will get less lift than if you don't. RK and Metal Cloak design their springs for armored up Jeeps, so if you don't have bumpers and stuff you may end up a bit tall. Old Man Emu has different spring rates depending on how heavy your Jeep is.
Just remember there are no good deals out there (only good vendors), if something is cheep there is a reason.
As far as vendors, if you want straight forward advice, and not just someone trying to sell you things, contact Marcus at River-City Offroad. He is a Jeeper, and won't steer you wrong. If you talk to him and he tells you what you are trying to do is stupid or a waste of money, you should listen.
TheDirtman's sticky notes and advice are spot on he really knows what he is talking about. Others in this post have given you excellent advise.
I'm running about 3-3.25 in of lift with 35s and full factory fenders. I have quite a bit of aftermarket stuff I've accumulated over the years (really need to update my profile, it is several months behind), my Jeep is heavy, about 700-800lbs above stock when loaded for wheeling. I have RK 2.5in 4door springs on a two door. I am not running a drag link flip, although I am right on the edge of needing one (didn't do it because I plan on adding some more weight down the road which will likely lower my lift a bit).
Anyway, there is a lot to consider when lifting a Jeep. But like others said, stay as low as you can while still accomplishing your goals.
Happy Jeeping.
03-19-2019, 08:00 PM
#16
Super Moderator
I ended up purchasing the Mopar 2in lift which I learned was really a hair over 3inches of actual lift, since most of the lift heights are rated with heavy bumpers and armor on your rig. So unweighted 3.25in of lift..weighted 2.5in of lift Anyways, the Mopar 2in lift has worked well for me and it has been plenty of lift to clear the 35s I got and it handles the mild mannered stuff I do offroad while at the same time keeps good on road daily driving manners. It payed off to add a few components to it which weren't included in the kit such as HD front track bar, HD Tie-rod, HD drag link and adjustable front lower control arms and then I threw some front swaybar quick disco links on as well. The actual lift kit cost me $800, and the other stuff to complete it all off to get me back to good driving manners compared to stock, cost me at least another $1000. Then throw in another $900 it cost me for a Big Brake Kit to better stop with those larger tires on. So try to keep all that in mind when shopping around for a lift kit. Based upon the kit you decide on, many on this forum can tell you what additional components would be good to add to it and the reasons why they should be added.
Last edited by Rednroll; 03-19-2019 at 08:12 PM.
03-20-2019, 08:15 AM
#17
Super Moderator
@pghjeeper - to give you a bit of perspective. I'm running 37s on my JKU and I have 3 1/8" of ACTUAL lift from my 3.5" springs. I also have a 1" body lift (not included in the 3 1/8" suspension lift). I run flat fenders. I run all eight adjustable control arms. I don't need the DL flip because my drag link and track bar are still aligned. I run long travel OME shocks. I have 2" of bump stop on the front and 2" of bump stop on the rear. No tire contact when compressed. This rig does 80 on the highway with no steering control issues.
I didn't come up with that recipe on my own. That was the result of reading Ditrman's thread along with Planman's thread (see below).
Dirtman - https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/modified-jk-tech-2/my-thoughts-lifts-288269/
Planman - https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/jk-w...n-lift-260148/
I didn't come up with that recipe on my own. That was the result of reading Ditrman's thread along with Planman's thread (see below).
Dirtman - https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/modified-jk-tech-2/my-thoughts-lifts-288269/
Planman - https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/jk-w...n-lift-260148/
03-20-2019, 05:55 PM
#18
JK Super Freak
I have no experience with the Rancho lift but for what its worth I run the Jspec 2.5 to which I added their longer front lower control arms, and extended length rear sway bar links. Everything else other than the two add ons came with the lift. Its been two years and I'm very pleased.
03-21-2019, 11:40 PM
#20
JK Super Freak