TheDirtman

I was talking about the RK fan boys. I guess I could have phrased that post better.

Rednroll

If you're shopping for a lift by name brand, then you're probably starting at the wrong place. Of the 3 different name brands you mentioned, they all have different variations of lift kits available. Depending on which of those lifts and the contents of components they have in them, and the budget price you're looking to spend, can and will have a larger contribution on which will provide you closer to what you're looking to get out of a particular lift.

Most lifts out there will reduce the price of a kit by providing a compromised solution to a particular problem that should be addressed when lifting or not include anything at all and try to convince you that the lift is not high enough and you don't need a particular replacement component and the stock component will work just fine.

Copy and Paste from a similar post I responded to:

Anytime you do a suspension lift, what you are doing is changing the geometry of the entire suspension from its original design which has been optimized for the best ride, steering, handling, etc. The end goal is to get back to that originally designed geometry with the added lift. So what is truly needed is that you should replace every suspension component that connects to the axles so it has a proportionate amount of increase in length to the additional height you added for the lift increase. That's also the most expensive solution. Therefore, with most of these lift "kits", what they do is provide a compromise of replacement components and some type of adapter which fits between one of the original part's mounting points and the original component or don't provide a replacement at all. The adapter and not replacing are often compromise solutions. The adapter increased the overall length of the original component to match the amount of lift added but it didn't actually increase the length of the actual component, the not replacing is that someone considered the original component is not impacted enough that it can still be used or they are trying to sell you an additional component which is not included if you discover a problem after the fact. For instance, most of the lifts out there don't include anything for caster correction on the front axle, where you either work with a good shop that may tell you, it would be a good idea to add another component or you get it installed and notice the lift rides hard and your steering doesn't feel right.

The real end game is to replace all those original components with one of the proper length to match the lift amount, so the geometry is fully corrected. Oh....and getting a perceived better component while doing that.

99% of the components that are impacted when you lift are connected to the axles, where the other side of that component is typically connected to the frame. With the lesser cost lifts, what they will do is either not replace those original components because the lift amount isn't high enough, where the original part will still function adequately. It won't function 100% properly but it will still serve its main purpose. The upgrade from not including the component is to use an adapter/extension bracket, and then from there is the most costly option of entirely replacing the original component with the longer length one. Additionally, in some instance an adapter solution may be a better solution, depending on what your trying to achieve. For example, often a Geo correction bracket for caster correction may be a better solution than replacement control arms, but that highly depends on what is more important to you. Track bar extension brackets are another example where the adapter will address the shorter length of using the OEM track bar and additionally make the track bar sit more parallel to the axle as it was originally intended, where a Track bar replacement may only address the additional length that is needed. All the lifts out there will be a mix and match of those combinations of not replacing, adding a bracket extension, or replacing each and every component which attach to the axles. The more included components that are replaced, typically the higher the cost of the lift will be.

Here is the short list of components that all connect to the axles that will have some type of impact or be impacted when you do a suspension lift. A good rule of thumb is that the higher you lift, the more you drive yourself towards the need for the replacement solutions.

Suspension replacement list of components
- Springs (4)
- Shocks (4)
- Control Arms (8)
- Sway bar links (4)
- Track bars (2)
- Drive shafts (2)
- Brake Lines (4)
- Breather hoses (2)
- Axle side Control Arm mounting brackets (8) - need to be relocated or replace with axle that has relocated brackets
- Rear parking brake cable
- (2012+)Front Driveshaft replacement

Then there's the steering components to consider as well. Typically going over 3.5in of lift will additionally drive you into the need of a Drag link flip kit.
- Drag link
- Tie rod
- Pitman arm


The corresponding compromise adapter/solution components
- Springs (4)= Pucks
- Shocks (4)= Shock extension brackets
- Control Arms (8)= (2)Front Geo correction brackets/(2)Cam bolts
- Sway bar links (4)= Typically replace rears and relocate longer oem rears to front.
- Track bars (2)= Track bar relocation mounting brackets
- Drive shafts (2)= Exhaust spacers (needed for 2012+ JKs), Rzeppa CV Kit
- Brake Lines (4)= Brake line relocation extension brackets
- Breather hoses (2)= Breather hose extension kits
- Axle side Control Arm mounting brackets (8)= Leave as is
- Rear parking brake cable= Parking brake drop bracket/detach existing mounting location
- Exhaust Spacers


So every suspension lift you look at will be a combination solution of
1. Replace the OEM part
2. Add an adapter to the existing OEM part
or
3. Re-use the OEM part

Once you learn more about what each of those components does, then you can make better informed decisions if you choose to leave it as is, the adapter solution is acceptable or better, or you want to go for the replacement solution.

My personal preference which everyone on this forum will have their own end goal of lifting , is that I set my target price for a lift at $1K and decided to go with the Mopar 2in lift w/o drive shaft ($760) [I have a 2009 which doesn't have the driveshaft/exhaust interference] and added an adjustable HD front track bar ($225), lower cost adjustable front lower control flex arms ($180) for caster correction, Front brake line relocation brackets ($35), parking brake relocation bracket ($15), axle breather hose extension kit ($10) and front quick disconnect sway bar links ($135). Yes, I went over budget by $350 and you likely will also and I'm also aware that there are additional items that I could add/replace for further improvements.

TheDirtman

Even replacing everything connects to the axles will not put you back to stock geometry. Things like poor driveline angles and increased axle shift are going to happen unless you make extreme modifications to the jeep and replace the front axle with one that is caster corrected for the amount of lift you have.

If you want to good riding lift that is as close to the factory geometry as possible run a 3.5" lift with a drag link flip, 3.5" raised rear track bar bracket, cut off the axle control arm mounts and raise them so the mounting holes are centered on the axle tube (approximately 3") Raise the upper mounts by the same amount. Do the same thing on the rear axle. I choose this height because of the change in location for the front track bar with a drag link flip. That kinda dictates where you need to be to mimic the factory geometry.
Of course the raised height will change the feel of the suspension in cornering and off camber situations but otherwise should track down the road just like the factory set up.

Lift kits all do the same thing and none of them address the axle mounting locations. The only real differences between brands is the rod end joints and the coils they use. Some tout their superior joint for misalignment and some advertise having the longest coils or best riding coils. These things are nice but typically not needed on a bolt on kit that relies on the factory mounts for the control arms, shocks, and coils. If you are going to ignore these mounts then any lift you get is going to be a compromise and not be as well designed as the factory set up.

TheDirtman

I think you meant me,not Planmans

nthinuf

Doh, yeah. I had just posted for someone to read through planmans Deathwobble writeup, and brainfarted the name...

Bigfx

I guess I was looking for the best 2.5 inch option kit wise. I am looking to replace front track bar and lower control arms (or geometry bracket) on the first install. I guess I was hoping there was a clear cut favorite that as a beginning lift offered a decent package that would drive pretty well with such a small lift. Was hoping to get some validation for jks or metal cloak or rock krawler. Budget wise I'm at about 1500 and want to spend my money well and get the most value.

TheDirtman

In reality they all do the same thing. Don't fall for the misconception that a lift will make your jeep more capable off road, most of the time it does not. Take some time to know your suspension components and what they do and the right kit in your budget should become clear. Also remember you can always add to or "upgrade" any kit.

BoraBora

You'll be happy with any of them.

If I wer you I'd buy JKS or Metalcloak arms and pair them with Rock Krawler or Metalcloak coils, and Rancho 9000's.

....that's actually what I'm running and it handles great. I can cruise down the highway at 75 and it tracks straight and takes road imperfections like a champ.

jedg

Interesting thought to raise the control arm mounts. Have you seen this done? I wonder about how much bumpstop is then needed with the raised upper control arm mounts.

Rednroll

There are clear cut favorites, it just depends on who you ask.

I wouldn't say there's a clear cut favorite, people will argue all day long on these forums about different brands, so most of us that are smart avoid making any brand recommendations. I'll just say the one that tends to get the least amount of criticism seems to be Metal Cloak which just happens to be one of the more complete kits, which was what I was originally getting at. They also tend to be one of the more expensive kits that isn't going to mesh well with your budget.

Your best bet is to decide on the one you like best, and then ask for some further advise of what would further be recommended to add to it, to make it more complete.