Jks vs rock krawler vs teraflex
#21
JK Newbie
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Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Texas
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I am stuck right now between these kits
Jks j-spec 2.5 with fixed lca's from jks and adjustable sway links so I don't have to drill out holes in the existing rear sway links. Then I would eventually get a rear adjustable track bar
Rock krawler 2.5 flex with rancho 9000, eventually getting a rear track bar with that system
I would do metal cloak their jk 2.5 true dual rate arb edition or maybe their rocksport edition to save some money
Jks j-spec 2.5 with fixed lca's from jks and adjustable sway links so I don't have to drill out holes in the existing rear sway links. Then I would eventually get a rear adjustable track bar
Rock krawler 2.5 flex with rancho 9000, eventually getting a rear track bar with that system
I would do metal cloak their jk 2.5 true dual rate arb edition or maybe their rocksport edition to save some money
#22
Super Moderator
I'm stuck, I spend 90% on road and about 10% on trails. I have heard good and bad with rock krawler and teraflex but not so much with jks. I want a good freeway ride and nothing too rough as I drive to Colorado from Texas twice a year but I wanna capable lift for some off roading. What's the best lift of these or does anyone have a better suggestion? Thanks in advance
R/
Will
#23
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Yeah I'm trying to find some local clubs, I'm new to Fort Worth and the Jeep scene, but I'm leaving to Colorado in a couple of weeks so I'm wanting to install something on the 24th.
#25
JK Jedi
Any custom build likely has moved the mounts as it is really the only way to maximize travel and correct geometry. Typically the upper control arms are not the item that creates clearance issues, it is the drag link flip. That usually takes 3.5" of added bump stop. I typically try to set up the lower axle mounts centered on the tube or slightly down. Proper geometry typically has the separation of the upper and lower links is 25% of the tire height. The JK axle links have more separation then needed for factory tire size.
#26
Super Moderator
Any custom build likely has moved the mounts as it is really the only way to maximize travel and correct geometry. Typically the upper control arms are not the item that creates clearance issues, it is the drag link flip. That usually takes 3.5" of added bump stop. I typically try to set up the lower axle mounts centered on the tube or slightly down. Proper geometry typically has the separation of the upper and lower links is 25% of the tire height. The JK axle links have more separation then needed for factory tire size.
#27
Super Moderator
The only thing I don't particularly like about their J-spec kit is their inclusion of the Fox adventure series shocks. Not that there's anything particularly wrong with them. It's just that most other kits that are paired with Fox shocks typically come with the Fox 2.0 performance series shocks. The Performance series typically runs about $100/shock higher in price than the adventure series. So it seems highly likely that's one of the ways JKS decided to reduce cost to make that kit more attractive to those looking at that height and doing price comparison shopping.
You'll likely find you won't need to replace the rear TB. Try it out and decide for yourself. The rear isn't as important to replace as it is getting an HD TB for the front, since you steer with the front. When you start moving into 37 and larger tires with their increase in weight, that's when replacing the rear starts becoming more important.
You also may want to consider budgeting for a front drive shaft replacement such as an Adams DS if you ever decide when you'll want to take it offroad. Approx. $500. The 2012+ JKs routed the exhaust under the driveshaft and the stock DS boot has been known to get torn up due to flexing offroad and hitting the exhaust.
Last edited by Rednroll; 06-13-2017 at 01:04 AM.
#28
JK Jedi
Actually a raised rear track bar bracket is an important thing to do on two fronts. Raising the axle side by the same amount that you lifted will center the rear axle back to the stock location and it also reduces axle shift and rear steer which will affect the amount of steering corrections you will do driving down the road and will raise the roll center in the rear reducing body roll during cornering. When adding a new raised bracket it is good to also correct the angle of the bracket for the lift you are running (rotate it forward a bit) as it will keep the rear track bar in line with the frame track bar bracket and reduce the chance of interference with shocks mounted in the factory locations which is common. A front bracket is really not needed if not doing a drag ling flip unless you are just wanting more strength in the actual bracket. Unless you are doing more extreme off roading the stock bracket should be fine. You may just want to put some more weld on the bracket.
#30
JK Jedi
When adding a new raised bracket it is good to also correct the angle of the bracket for the lift you are running (rotate it forward a bit) as it will keep the rear track bar in line with the frame track bar bracket and reduce the chance of interference with shocks mounted in the factory locations which is common.