del4s

$120 and I'm running 35s with stock ride and handling, actually better because I'm running 35 ATs instead of the 32 MTs. I used the FT spacer lift but left off the the front track bar relocation bracket. The front axel is about 1/2" off but the handling is great now. I did the adjustable front track bar thing on my TJ and LJ for small lifts which added more problems for no improvement. You only need a 1/4" adjustment.

The main downside using stock springs and shocks is I have less droop, but with a Rubi keeping all wheels on the ground isn't as important.



I should add that the wheel backspacing and rim width is very important in making it work.

wayoflife

In all fairness, if you never wheel your Jeep hard, you probably won't.

wayoflife

Maybe it's just me, but at about $200, new adjustable front upper control arms are a mod for the budget minded kind of guys. And, even when properly torqued, I have still seen these things come loose under the streeses of hard wheeling. While they may make alignments easier to do, I personally wouldn't choose to go this route.

And, this is a fair statment to make. Perhaps the design of the control arms on the JK will be enough to make cam bolts a viable option for those who want to go this route.

JacksJeep

Del4s,

Could you be a little more specific about your statement quoted below? In what way did the addition of the front track bar make matters worse?

jeepingib

Would 35's fit stock without the flenders and front bumper on?

Piginajeep

in the front it would probley work without the bumper..

No way will it clear in the back.

Look at this thread https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/jk-show-tell-33/35s-stock-2-door-1710/

.45Hardboil

Del4s, or anyone who knows...what wheels do you have on your rig? I like em' a lot. Also what size/width are they? In fact, if you had a hard top w/tinted windows, I probably would have fallen out of my chair in a fit of jealous love.

tnx

JacksJeep

OK, back to cam bolts. I did a little internet research about cam bolts. Now I understand why some folks don't like them. As it turns out, according to the BDS lift installation instructions, the lower front attachment for the lower front control arm has perforations placed so the round hole through which the bolt passes can be converted to a rectangular slot so that a cam bolt can be used. Here is the quote from the instructions. “The OE lower control arm mounts are perforated from the factory so that they can be changed to slots for alignment cams. The perforated sections must be removed to accepted the new cam bolts supplied in this kit. Special tools are made to perform this operation but are not necessary. The perforated sections can be removed with a rotary grinding tool, chisel or a combination of both.”

So if you adapt your JK to cam bolts, there is no going back. After reading this I decided that proper length control arms are a much better solution. Just my one cent worth (I work cheap!)

Here’s the link: http://www.bds-suspension.com/pdfs/014310.pdf

jeepingib

Break out the sawzall and get rid of that annoying bit of sheetmetal. Problem solved.

wayoflife

Bingo! Cam bolts may be a cheap solutiong but once they're installed, there's no turning back.