Let's see if I got this right (35" vs 37")
 

Ok, guys. Gettin' down to crunch time and tryin' to decide which way to go. I thought I was decided to go with 37's off the bat when I first started looking around here, then I saw a JK Unlimited lifted on a MOPAR (RE 4.5") lift with 35's and thought it looked great so I deferred back to 35's. Now, the wifey is askin' me why not just go ahead for 37's off the bat if I'm plannin' on going there later anyway (God, I love her sometimes... ok, I love her all the time, but you know what I mean). So, tell me if I got this right.

Here's the plan. I'm lookin' at puttin' this on a 4dr Rubi so I'll have 4.10 gears already.

35's

3.5" Clayton
35x12.5's
15-17" wheels (haven't decided yet) with no more than 4.5" backspacing

I'm thinkin' I can do with the stock gearing for a while and not have to do it all at the same time which'd cut down on my initial cost. I'll have the Rubi 4lo gearing to help me offroad and the 6spd should make the 4.10's livable on the street.

Also, don't think I'd need to replace any driveshafts just yet with the 4dr and 35's, right?

37's
4.5" Clayton
37x12'5
15-17" wheels (same deal as above)
5.13 gears
JE Reel driveshafts front/rear

Is that (gears and driveshafts) the only differences in going from 35's to 37's (obviously other than the tire size)?

What am I looking at... another $3k or so if I go 37's from the get go?

or ....
37s
3.5" lift
1" body lift (much cheaper than driveshafts)
5.13 gears (livable w/ 4.10s)

pm Duke, he shld be able to give you a little more info. he's running the setup above, minus the gears, and still wheels pretty hard.

That's a thought.

Are the driveshafts a necessity at 4.5" of lift? What's the point of no return on the 4dr driveshafts?

From what I hear the stock driveshafts need replaced anyway at some point if you're gonna wheel it. I'm just wondering if I need to do it right away or not.

Thanks for the input though. A body lift wasn't even on my scope.

IMO.

If 37's are even on the radar. Get them. They will cost you more every time you need to change tires. But they fit oh so well on the 4dr. I have them on the 2dr, but I also have a little toy money to play with so I don't worry about the $$$ side.
Gears, it would just depend on how much you need to speed between lights, how many hills, and how much you drive the interstate... (need for high speed vs. rpm)

Again just my opinion. I believe if you want to do something, then do it. But make sure you are responsible and consider the long term effects... eg. costs.

Have Fun, Life's short.

Bill

I like this idea to help offset the cost of dreiveshafts with BL. Space for 37's and they look balanced on the 4 doors. Go for it!

Ok, so assuming I do go with 37's... Is there any reason NOT to do the 3.5" Clayton with a 1" body lift -vs- 4.5" Clayton and driveshafts AND if I do get the driveshafts, I'm lost as to what I'll need? I think I'd want the 1350 JE Reels, but I'm not sure. Someone wanna school me on driveshaft tech?

I'd get the driveshafts no matter whether you got the 3.5 or 4.5. The stock ones are going to fail; and usually Murphy makes it so it's at the worst time.

I've got a 3.5" lift, 35's, 5.13's and JE Reel 1350's and am quite happy with the setup - EXCEPT that I wish I'd gone with 37's! Just go ahead and get them! I regard the 5.13's as a necessity.

I am very happy with my 3.5" w/ 37" :thumbsup:

It's my understanding that the 3.5" is made to run 35's. How did you fit 37's under with the 3.5"? Body lift? Tube fenders? Sawzall?

Any specific recommendations on drive shafts? Are they something that a fledgling DIYer can do or must they be professionally installed?

Yeah, I'm sure it doesn't, but my pockets are barely deep enough to consider 37's right off the bat. There's no way I can afford more than that, I don't think. :dontknow2: Ya never know, though.