If you had it aliened that shop should have check to see if any of your ball joints, control arm bushings, tie rod ends, drag link ends and power steering box have any play. I would go back and ask them. If they didn't have them check. How many miles are on the Jeep? Running Bigger tires all the time will ware these components out faster then stock. I see your in Hobbs I don't know what kind of after market shops they have there but if you make it to Albuquerque often I recommend checking with Deseret Rat 80% of their business is Jeeps.

Alright, thanks everyone for the replies and info! The Jeep only has 16,500 miles and the tires look brand new, so I would guess the lift isn't very old? I'm happy to finally know now what kind of lift I have. I'm going to call the shop tomorrow, and get the alignment numbers. As far as a budget? I don't want to go overboard on the lift, but I do want it to be safe to drive. Plus I'm tired of my wife bitching at me for buying it :DAnymore input would be great...Thanks again

I would never a buy a Jeep on 20" wheels and 35's. You know everything else was done the same way to it.

If budget is a concern you may be best to remove the lift and find some factory take off and simply run a 2" budget boost. Sell the RC lift to recoup some funds. Otherwise you are looking at buying a lot more components to correct the suspension and steering geometry. Depending on the route you go expect to spend $1-$2k to make it drive right at that height.

Good for you.

Called today and found out what my alimite numbers were... Supposed to be 3.6-5.2. The were 1.3 left and 1.4 right. That's my caster numbers... Now what does that mean I have no clue...lol

When you install a lift, the axles (pinions) start rotating upward. As the pinions raise, the caster goes down. Low caster causes flighty steering.

To correct it, you need to lower the front pinion back down, which will raise the caster back toward factory spec.

Your options are cam bolts, control arm drop brackets, new fixed control arms, or adjustable control arms. Many people frown at cam bolts, so even though they are the cheapest, you might skip them and look at the brackets or a set of control arms.

I had same problem and you will find that 4.5 to 5.0 is way better. Use adjustable lower control arms. Geometry correction brackets are only good for about two units. They would get you in limits but I found that the upper limit is the best place to be.

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You have cam bolts. Take it back to the alignment shop you just paid and make them raise the caster. (which they should have done the first time...)