Lifting soon, need to know if there is anything else I need?
#1
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Lifting soon, need to know if there is anything else I need?
Well the big moment is here for me and as excited as I am, I need everyones input if I am on the right track. I have an 09 JKU Rubicon that has flat fenders, front bumper and winch, EVO sliders, and full underbody skid plates and now moving forward with the best part. I have an RK 3.5 X-Factor long arm kit that I am picking up on Monday but am bypassing the coils and moving to the EVO coilover kit front and rear which I already have. I feel that this will be a good fit especially with the flat fenders. I also have an Adams 1350 front shaft coming and the rear wont be too far behind it. What I am asking for is everyones opinion on how well everything will function together and what is anything am I missing? I want to buy the RK tie rod and drag link also, do I need these to get going or can it wait a bit? Im afraid the lift kit will not be enough and while I have another vehicle, i would like to have everything up front to put on.
Any words of advice are welcome!
Any words of advice are welcome!
#2
A hi-steer kit is recommended for taller lifts, but not always necessary. Do ur thing and figure it out from there. I have a MC 3.5" lift and hi-steer kits are actually NOT recommended. Gotta check ur clearances and drive it a bit before u will know.
#3
I ran a 1350 front shaft for about a year. Had awful driveline vibration past 40mph due to the weight of the cv section and the long length of the 1350 tcase yoke. It sticks out a good 4 inches past the tcase vs a 1310 yoke and even with a balanced shaft it's just too much rotating mass. Swapped to a 1310 and it's smooth sailing now.
#4
JK Jedi
1350 is overkill and a waste of money unless you have big HP and tons. This is not a case of bigger is better. Why an RK long arm with the EVO coil overs?
Its also kinda strange someone doing a long arm with coil overs would have to ask about components.
Tire size and what you are planning to do should be in your description for what you are doing. Lifts and shocks should be built around that not just thrown on out of a whim.
Its also kinda strange someone doing a long arm with coil overs would have to ask about components.
Tire size and what you are planning to do should be in your description for what you are doing. Lifts and shocks should be built around that not just thrown on out of a whim.
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Yes I did forget to mention tire size, 37's is max as of right now. Sure I can see 40's down the road but I already have a set of 37's to burn up. If I go bigger I'm looking at new axles anyways and as you all know there is a lot of money involved in that.
#6
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1350 is overkill and a waste of money unless you have big HP and tons. This is not a case of bigger is better. Why an RK long arm with the EVO coil overs?
Its also kinda strange someone doing a long arm with coil overs would have to ask about components.
Tire size and what you are planning to do should be in your description for what you are doing. Lifts and shocks should be built around that not just thrown on out of a whim.
Its also kinda strange someone doing a long arm with coil overs would have to ask about components.
Tire size and what you are planning to do should be in your description for what you are doing. Lifts and shocks should be built around that not just thrown on out of a whim.
And yes it's been years since I've done more car work than a fluid change so if there are little things I can buy before hand to ready myself then I'd like to. I'm doing this myself anyways and I will take my time. You can't rush perfection.
#7
JK Jedi
I run 1310's on 40's and tons without issues. Been running them for over 5 years. I just went to a 1410 on the rear because of the limited yolk sizes on a dana 80. If I throw a V8 in there then yes I will likely go with a bigger driveshaft but only if I have issues. Moving to tons later your current drive shaft will be too long as the differential is way bigger then the dana 44. If you are planning on tons I would wait on the long arm kit and do a custom long arm set up that is going to give you better clearance and performance. The EVO coil over kit does not give you the amount of travel that you would max out the short arms on the JK and to be honest, you will be better off to do it all at once with the tons then to pay twice. Tons will also give you more room for mount options as things get pretty tight on the front driver side for mounts. Tons may give you the option to run the coil overs outboard on the rear with a Frenched frame that is a much better set up then hanging them off the back of the jeep in the factory locations.
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I ran a 1350 front shaft for about a year. Had awful driveline vibration past 40mph due to the weight of the cv section and the long length of the 1350 tcase yoke. It sticks out a good 4 inches past the tcase vs a 1310 yoke and even with a balanced shaft it's just too much rotating mass. Swapped to a 1310 and it's smooth sailing now.