Edit: for incorrect info.

You only have to replace the spider gears inside of the carrier so your existing R&P will work. It is the cheapest way to get both front tires to pull when you need it.

Everybody agrees the PR44 is best, hands down, no shit category. But, then so are 60s and coilovers that cost $20K. I am extremely glad that companies like dynatrac are out there to provide us with excellant equipment when we need it.

 

I had an aussie locker in the D30 front of my old YJ with an 8.8 rear Full Detroit locker as well. I was totally surprised when I put the aussie up front expecting driveability problems similar to what my Detroit could give me when I wasn't paying attention.. lol
It never really happened with the aussie, so im sure in a JK it reacts the same way.
Now I had those lockers in that YJ for a reson, taking it to next level and knowing that as lockers go, automatics in general are the most reliable units you can buy for the trails. Before you decide to go this route ask the JK aussie guys how there's is working they will have better insight on a Jk dd aussie set up.. good luck either way.

 

This is what I have in my factory rear end, correct?
I don't like how it preforms back there. It never seems to lock when I want it to. Sure, if I'm at a stop on a gravel road, rev the engine and drop the clutch I can spin both tires (sometimes); but when I'm in a "off road" situation" I can never get it to lock. Example: I pulled off the snow cover road and the ditch had a large drop-off causing my front right tire (/suspension) to flex out and loose all downward pressure. Basically I should of had three tires with moderate traction. Granted the ground was snow covered so any traction was moderate at best. Anyway, the only tires that would turn /spin was the right front and the rear left. I was stuck. Luckily, two big guys came along, bounce on the rear bumper, and I backed right out. I'm guessing I didn't have much downward pressure on my rear left tire. I don't think it ever "locked" in the rear, just change from spinning the left to the right.
Maybe it's user error on my part (not knowing how to 'drive' correctly), but in my experience, a auto-locker (non controllable, non selectable) never locks when you need it to...

Thanks

 

Sorry TM but this info is wrong.

An auto locker like Detroit Locker, Aussie, Lock-Right. E-Z Locker or Spartan is always locked unless it needs to unlock to navigate a corner. During a corner, the locker allows the outside tire (axle shaft) to over speed the driving inside tire (axle). As the corner is completed and equal tire speed (axle) has occured, the unit will again lock up.

 

It's also worth knowing that a 8.8 Detroit is not a Sof-Locker. The Detroit Locker Dana 44 model is a Sof-Locker version than engages much smoother that a non-Sof-Locker version. Most Detroit Lockers are now Sof-Lockers. A c-clip axle, such as a Ford 8.8 or Dana 35 is not available in the Sof-Locker design because the c-clip axle retention method will not allow the added Sof-Locker parts.

A Detroit Sof-Locker is smoother than any lunch box locker. An Aussie is a good cheap option for a D30 axle if you have a driving style that won't cause you to break other axle parts.

 

My bad......

 

Incorrect. As I mentioned in an earlier post, your stock Limited Slip Differential (LSD) rear axle came with a Trac Loc, not a Truetrac. No LSD locks. If a tire comes off of the ground or has significantly less traction than the other side, the diff will act like an open differential and allow the tire with little traction to free spin. This frequently can be helped by adding brake pressure to help equal out the friction at each tire and allow the differential push power to the tire with more ground traction.

A factory rear LSD is marginal at best. Truetracs are widely considered to be the best LSD available for off road use but they still don't perform as well as a true locker. Not everyone needs a locker. For many moderate off road users a Truetrac is a great option. For a moderate user that lives in an environment that gets a lot of compact snow and ice, Truetracs are the very best option. If off-road use wasn't considered, Truetracs are a much better option than a selectable.

 

Thank you for the clarification. I keep mixing the two as the same. Must be their names sounding so similar.

I'm a little slow, so let's make sure I get this correct.
I have a Trac Loc, and a Trac Loc is a Limited Slip (LSD)

A Truetrac is a "Detroit Truetrac Differentials"?
Quote from Eaton website, "The Detroit Truetrac was the first helical gear differential ever introduced into the automotive aftermarket as an Eaton brand. It remains the leading helical gear-type limited slip differential in the industry."

I'm guessing the Helical Gear Type limited slip is better than (what ever type) limited slip the factory Trac Loc is... But they are both limited slip?

Is this statement true for both the Trac Loc & the Truetrac?

Apologizes if I'm beating a dead horse... just looking for that free education...
Thanks

 

A clutch style LSD is never a good idea in a vehicle that has potential for lifting a tire. If you lift and spin a tire a with a clutch driven LSD you are accelerating the wear of the clutch discs. They can wear out quickly if used hard. A Truetrac won't wear out as it doesn't use clutches for its LSD function. A Truetrac is also much more aggressive than a clutch driven LSD. It transfers more torque in low traction situations than clutch driven LSDs.

 

Truetrac's...