Loose steering??? Help
Is it flighty or loose? Two different things. Caster issues cause flightiness. Loose or bad steering components cause loose steering. If you can turn your wheel a bit before it responds, I put my money on your draglink mounts and or bushings being messed up. Check the draglink bolt on the knuckle for any play. With the lift you have, the angles could have wobbled out the mounting hole.
Is it flighty or loose? Two different things. Caster issues cause flightiness. Loose or bad steering components cause loose steering. If you can turn your wheel a bit before it responds, I put my money on your draglink mounts and or bushings being messed up. Check the draglink bolt on the knuckle for any play. With the lift you have, the angles could have wobbled out the mounting hole.
Here are my brackets:
What they do is bring my control arm mounts down a couple inches and make them roughly the same angle as stock, even though i'm lifted 3-4".
Tons of companies make great adjustable control arms. If you plan on Flexing a ton, MetalCloak has some amazing joints. RC's are cheaper and easier to rebuild each year if needed. RK's are super beefy.
As to your loose steering issue, look into tightening your worm gear on the steering box. I was able to watch the top of my pitman arm wiggle slighty.
Here's where you'll see slack in the worm gear:
It gets loose after many miles and rough riding (potholes included). Have someone sit in your driver's seat and turn the steering wheel 1/3 turn left and right, and feel and look for any joints that are loose or weird acting.
Here is were my last TRE on my Drag Link was bad:
I don't have a draglink Flip Kit yet, so I'm using a drop pitman arm.
To the first Question: You'll want Adj Control arms or Geometry Correcting brackets. Each of these are independent of the Drag Link kit.
Here are my brackets:
<img src="https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=457089"/>
What they do is bring my control arm mounts down a couple inches and make them roughly the same angle as stock, even though i'm lifted 3-4".
Tons of companies make great adjustable control arms. If you plan on Flexing a ton, MetalCloak has some amazing joints. RC's are cheaper and easier to rebuild each year if needed. RK's are super beefy.
As to your loose steering issue, look into tightening your worm gear on the steering box. I was able to watch the top of my pitman arm wiggle slighty.
Here's where you'll see slack in the worm gear:
<img src="https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=457088"/>
It gets loose after many miles and rough riding (potholes included). Have someone sit in your driver's seat and turn the steering wheel 1/3 turn left and right, and feel and look for any joints that are loose or weird acting.
Here is were my last TRE on my Drag Link was bad:
<img src="https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=457087"/>
I don't have a draglink Flip Kit yet, so I'm using a drop pitman arm.
I'm definitely going to be getting the geometry brackets now. But for the control arms I'm gonna hold for a little while because I would rather get flat fenders than control arms

I'll get someone to turn my steering wheel and see if anything is shifting where it is not supposed to and I'll get back to you.
I just checked to see if any of the bolts you pointed out were loose and everything was tight when the steering wheel was being turned so ill take it to my local jeep shop either tomorrow or Tuesday to get it looked at.
Thanks for all the help
Thanks for all the help
I have a 2012 JKU on 35s with a RC 3.5" lift with dual RC stabilizers and my jeep has a lot of play in the steering wheel, it is pretty hard to keep the jeep in one lane. The steering feels like it has no power to it at all, how loose it feels.
How can I fix this, some people have told me to do the Drag Link Flip Kit but I want to know 100% if that is going to fix it because its $450
What should I do any new suggestions or advice?
How can I fix this, some people have told me to do the Drag Link Flip Kit but I want to know 100% if that is going to fix it because its $450
What should I do any new suggestions or advice?
lowering tire pressure, SS should not be used to mask an issue - throwing more money at it should not be the first answer until you've determined what the issue is.
what does your current lift have besides springs...any adjustable control arms? did it come with a trackbar relocation brackets etc... your track bar and drag link should be parallel to each other, if not you'll feel steering issues as well
Last edited by jeeeep; May 13, 2013 at 08:28 PM.
why the dual SS? you really only need the stock unit and should be able to run with out it. I'd recommend removing the dual and reinstall the stock unit - better yet, remove the dual and drive it, if it feels better there's your starting point.
lowering tire pressure, SS should not be used to mask an issue - throwing more money at it should not be the first answer until you've determined what the issue is.
what does your current lift have besides springs...any adjustable control arms? did it come with a trackbar relocation brackets etc... your track bar and drag link should be parallel to each other, if not you'll feel steering issues as well
And no I'm pretty sure my kit did not come with adjustable control arms but I know it came with a track bar drop bracket.
As far as brackets, I only know about AEVs. They correct for caster and also increase overall handling. They lower the upper mount a lot which helps translate bumps up into the coil and shock and jot into the frame.
Also, if you draw an imaginary line from the upper control arm straight out the back of the jeep and do the same for the lower, it is reported to intersect somewhere behind the Jeep. The AEV intersect underneath the Jeep. I don't know the exact physics/dynamics, but it is supposed to improve ride an handling, along with decreased body roll.
Sent from some string and a few tin cans.
Also, if you draw an imaginary line from the upper control arm straight out the back of the jeep and do the same for the lower, it is reported to intersect somewhere behind the Jeep. The AEV intersect underneath the Jeep. I don't know the exact physics/dynamics, but it is supposed to improve ride an handling, along with decreased body roll.
Sent from some string and a few tin cans.
As far as brackets, I only know about AEVs. They correct for caster and also increase overall handling. They lower the upper mount a lot which helps translate bumps up into the coil and shock and jot into the frame.
Also, if you draw an imaginary line from the upper control arm straight out the back of the jeep and do the same for the lower, it is reported to intersect somewhere behind the Jeep. The AEV intersect underneath the Jeep. I don't know the exact physics/dynamics, but it is supposed to improve ride an handling, along with decreased body roll.
Sent from some string and a few tin cans.
Also, if you draw an imaginary line from the upper control arm straight out the back of the jeep and do the same for the lower, it is reported to intersect somewhere behind the Jeep. The AEV intersect underneath the Jeep. I don't know the exact physics/dynamics, but it is supposed to improve ride an handling, along with decreased body roll.
Sent from some string and a few tin cans.


