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Originally Posted by Millerca2
(Post 4306191)
To your point. If it is off and I can’t get it back in to a decent spec. Do I take the Cam bolts out and put on geo correction brackets or leave the Cam bolts and put in a geo bracket?
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Ah, post #32 is what I was thinking of in this thread -
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/modi...-343851/page2/ Really no different than welding some generic heavy duty washer in place. It's still a welding situation, basically recreating the nice bolt hole again from the enlarged area knocked out for the cam bolt. That is one of the biggest issues going with a cam bolt to begin with as reversing the decision isn't as easy. That and they're more prone to failure when offroadin. Unfortunately most aren't fully aware until it's too late :sad2: |
Originally Posted by Millerca2
(Post 4306191)
To your point. If it is off and I can’t get it back in to a decent spec. Do I take the Cam bolts out and put on geo correction brackets or leave the Cam bolts and put in a geo bracket?
But, cart before the horse, as it were. Check that low caster is the cause of the steering lightness before throwing money at it. Could end up being nothing more than over-inflated tires. (doubt it, but maybe a contributor.) |
Originally Posted by nthinuf
(Post 4306209)
Search on 'cam bolt eliminator'. Synergy and Teraflex sell them, I'm sure others do as well. As noted, they are basically just thick washers. You remove the cams, pop these over the enlarged holes (some people weld them, others don't), then install the arms and/or brackets.
But, cart before the horse, as it were. Check that low caster is the cause of the steering lightness before throwing money at it. Could end up being nothing more than over-inflated tires. (doubt it, but maybe a contributor.) |
The pic posted in that thread looks like a teraflex washer.
https://teraflex.com/file/attachment...33b3007081.pdf |
Measured the caster and it is 6*. Of course this was with a level app on my iPhone but from what I have read, running 6* on a 3.5” lift is okay.
So, if everything is within tolerances. Should I just leave it alone. I don’t want to put on a SS if it will mask problems that may occur. |
Originally Posted by Millerca2
(Post 4306486)
Measured the caster and it is 6*. Of course this was with a level app on my iPhone but from what I have read, running 6* on a 3.5” lift is okay.
So, if everything is within tolerances. Should I just leave it alone. I don’t want to put on a SS if it will mask problems that may occur. I was going back up and through the thread as a refresher....and it looks like DL is not flipped. If you're getting 3.5" of actual lift, doing a high steer kit (flipping DL) is gonna make a decent difference. I was without one for quite a while, and there was a significant improvement when I finally did flip it. |
Originally Posted by Millerca2
(Post 4306486)
Measured the caster and it is 6*. Of course this was with a level app on my iPhone but from what I have read, running 6* on a 3.5” lift is okay.
So, if everything is within tolerances. Should I just leave it alone. I don’t want to put on a SS if it will mask problems that may occur. But assuming 6 is correct, that should not be the cause of the steering looseness. Lack of a Draglink Flip causing loose steering? :dontknow2: Many people talk about bumpsteer from the steep angles. That was not my experience, though. I drove around for several years with about 4 inches of actual lift height and no flip. No bumpsteer, no looseness. What I noticed after flipping was a less jarring ride. I attributed it to bumps that had been travelling up the steeply angled bars, sort of like what people say about control arm brackets flattening those angles. |
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