Metalcloak Thread
The air dam is already removed. Its definitely the fenders, I can see where the plastic is worn off/skidded. The rubbing only happens during articulation over rocks, not during turns.
Cheapest route in order would likely be...
1, Add more bump stops
2, 2.5" lift. Budget boost is all you need
3, MetalCloak fenders, or cut your factory fenders if they aren't already and that's also free.
Highly interested in the 2.5 Duroflex kit for my 2014 JKU Sport. Question for guys running MC for some time. What exactly is the gold color, a paint, anodizing, powdercoat, or something else, how long does it hold that color for? I'm in SoCal, so I don't have a real harsh climate to contend with, but wondering how stout that gold color is. I also really like the idea behind the duroflex joint especially as a DD, for noise and dampening, can anyone tell me otherwise, why I would not want MC and go with my first choice since doing my homework of RK?
It's a zinc coating and it's tough stuff. It's the only product I've had that didn't rust. Even after getting rock rash.
I ran the full Game Changer and prior to that, several other lifts. I'm doing a full custom build now and using the Duroflex joints on my control arms. Still an opinion, so take it for what's worth. It's good stuff.
I ran the full Game Changer and prior to that, several other lifts. I'm doing a full custom build now and using the Duroflex joints on my control arms. Still an opinion, so take it for what's worth. It's good stuff.
It has held up in the high humidity, Gulf town world of FL just fine for about a year now. Still looks new. The factory frame paint already looks flat and oxidized, so it's definitely tougher than that.
This is the only lift I have run so can't say how it compares to RC.
This is the only lift I have run so can't say how it compares to RC.


