Yep, that's what I'm thinking. I ordered the 2.5 GC yesterday.

 

Yeah - maybe 1/2" additional clearance. Mine measure out to 35.5 - most 37’s that I've measured are somewhere around 36.5" with squish so that only gives you 1/2".

I'll be going with the coopers on the next set though.

 

Thanks guys...Not sure how companies continue to be able to get away with advertising tire sizes that never meet the advertised specs...pretty annoying if you ask me.

Chris

 

Before we started developing suspension products, we ran Cloak 3 (our 4-door) with just our Overline Fenders (front/rear) and 37" Goodyear MTRs.... and skid plates... It can easily do the Rubicon in that configuration.

Later we added 2" coils and extended the rear control arms (cut and weld job) for testing. Then we got into suspension and put the 3.5" Game-Changer 6Pak kit on it and never looked back. With our Overline Fenders, we could run 40's and the 3.5" lift (there are customers out there with that exact configuration) but that DOES limit uptravel, so we prefer 37's.

That's correct, our rated numbers are for a fully loaded Jeep. So a full stock Jeep will measure an inch taller.... 2.5" will be 3.5", etc. But fully loaded with aftermarket bumpers, larger spare tire, winch, skid plates, roll cage, aftermarket steel fenders and rockers, etc... you will sit at the advertised lift height.

 

Thanks for the clarification. When you ran just the overline fenders and no lift, can you tell me what your wheel configuration was...specifically backspacing, offset, width, etc?

On a different note, we're planning to buy a 2018 diesel JLU as soon as they come out. Do manufacturers like you receive units ahead of customer delivery schedules to do your design/testing on your new products so aftermarket product delivery corresponds with vehicle delivery dates, by chance? I know it happens in powersports, but I wasn't sure about in the vehicle market. Thanks again for the help,

Chris

 

Did my research. I've wasted too much time already... I'm trying to figure out torque specs for my new Game Changer ARB 3.5" lift. Control arms, track bars, sway links, shocks, etc. I'm assuming they are the same as factory specs, but I just want to be sure before I start tearing down my rig.

Also, is the Harbor Freight torque wrench acceptable, or should I go get a better one?

 

Yes torque specs are the same because you generally reuse stock hardware.

 

I picked up a set of new bolts from Northridge 4x4 to get rid of my non-shouldered factory bolts on the control arms.

 

That doesn't change the torque spec. There's a lot more that goes into it than my oversimplification, but if it's the same size bolt and nut, just use the same torque spec. If you really wanted to go crazy about it, Google is your friend and can look up the suggest torque specs for the new hardware if it is a different grade or has a different thread pitch. Chances are, it's all probably in the noise when you take into consideration everything from grade to coating to thread pitch to torque wrench accuracy. Use factory torque recommendations unless the northridge hardware comes with some specific directions otherwise.

 

Thank ya!!! Guess I shoulda googled that, but since I had u on the horn, thought I'd just ask.