smellytuna

Hi guys, I have some parts from previous 2011 JKU 6speed and would like to reuse them on my new/used 2013 JKUR/10A automatic with 65000 km. Found i have 3.73 gears in my rubicon after I bought it..

Jeep set-up: stock for now

Intented use: daily driver, don't do highway that often but go sometimes like at 5-6 hours in vacation with kids or go fishing, to wheel once a month (moderate to intermediate wood/mountain trails, mud sometimes, a bit of rock crawling nothing to freak and there is not too much to do here.. it's common to have a little of everything in the same trail

Armor/weight: front/rear 10A bumper, 10A sliders. Already have from last jeep a PSC brawler lite with brawler bar, warn M8000, a full Teraflex HD hinged carrier, hi-lift, to install this spring. In the near future I would like to install diff covers, rocker skins, oil pan, evap and tranny skids, so will probably be on the heavy side, I believe..

Tires: like new 315/75r16 GY Duratrac studded for winter on black rocks 16x8 D window steel rims. Have to buy some new 35" tires & 17" wheels for this summer. Will probably go 37 once both sets will be worn out in like 3 years... of course with some flat fenders at that time to accommodate those 37 with a regear but not for now..

So based on this information, I'm looking for 3.5" suspension lift.

Suspension/steering parts I have on hand:
2 Teraflex front lower adj ca (used but in good condition)
2 Rusty rear lower adj ca (used but in good condition)
2 Rusty rear upper adj ca (used but in good condition)
Teraflex front/rear monster adj trackbar (both new never installed)
Synergy Highsteer kit (with flip adapter) (new never installed)
Synergy 3"+ rear raised TB bracket (new never installed)
Synergy steering stabilizer tie-rod clamp (new never installed)
Teraflex hd steering stabilizer (new never installed)
EVO c-gussets/front lower ca skids (new to be weld on the stock d44)
aev provcal ( I hope it covers 2012+ I have to validate..)

Missing components:
4 springs and shocks (would like to go metalcloak, Evo mfg or Synergy mfg to complete what I have on hand, probably fox 2.0 for shocks)
Front upper adjustable ca
bumpstops
ss brake lines
front driveshaft
Longer axle breather hoses
What about rear spring retainer/alignment correction?
What about crossmember and exhaust spacer/mods on automatic 2012+

Or should I sell everything and buy a complete kit of one brand?

Please feel free to give some input related to the 2012+ auto jku with lift that i maybe didn't tought. Thanks guys!

karls10jk

Definitely build off of the parts you already have. The best builds are the ones where people have pulled from different companies. Obviously give all of your joints a good shakedown to ensure you don't have unnecessary play but certainly no reason to start back at square one.

resharp001

I agree with Karl. There is nothing wrong with having mismatched parts at all. Work with what you have and can re-use. My jeep has been built over a couple years, and by addressing and upgrading over time. I have a pretty good mashup of various manufacturers products and it doesn't bother me one bit. My jeep almost got renamed Mixed Up Misfit.

Regarding a couple specifics you asked about.....if you're pushing the rear axle back a bit, the RK spring correction wedges are handy to have. I use those and then just a large hose clamp to hold the spring to the perch. It's not as sexy as some of the nice retainers, but it works. Also, if you're worried about the exhaust, you might want to look at something like the AFE y-pipe to re-route that to behind the cross member instead of in front. That would be a better solution than spacers. If you're going to replace the front drive shaft anyhow, you might do that first as doing so will give you additional clearance. You might decide you don't need to address the exhaust after all. I have the y-pipe and worked great for me. It does run a little closer to gas lines than I'd prefer, so I have a ton of extra heat shield wrapped around em.

Rednroll

Looks like a good plan. Definitely don't start over, just to have matching parts, especially since your control arms are adjustable. If you're replacing the front drive shaft you likely won't need the exhaust spacers. It's usually one or the other that needs to be done, with the drive shaft replacement being the better option. Depending on the drive shaft you get, they're usually a smaller diameter as the stock and therefore meant to not cause the typical exhaust interference on the 2012+ models.

smellytuna

Thanks for replying guys! It's exactly what i wanted to know. And looks like i forgot about the swaybar links. Since i have the rubi e- disconnect, can i swap the back ones for front one and buy new longer links for the back??

jadmt

yes as long as you are not going to high. with e-disco you have to make sure your sway bar is at least horizontal if not pointing up a bit. I run JKS front adjustable disco so I can disco completely which I prefer sometimes over e-disco depends on the conditions and rear jks ajd on mine as stock rears are a bit short. Jks makes a nice rear adjustable link as well.

smellytuna

Good info!! Thanks