I'm running the same suspension set up and so far couldn't be happier though i have yet to really put it through its paces. I have a few rubbing issues i need to resolve in the rear (tires rub on the rear bumper and fender liner/flare) as well as the front (front bumper). My jeep is my daily driver and i am really happy with how it handles on the road. The pictures below probably do not do this set up justice but they are the best i have right now.

 

The thing about a 2-live axle, control arm set up, is that it's all about geometry, and weight transfer.
What I mean by this is, just because a system has the most flex, doesn't mean that it has the best traction. And traction is the key, which is ultimately, how much of the weight of the vehicle can you move with the available contact points. What I'm trying to say is, if you have a rig that has poor geometry, but great articulation means that you're placing full load on less contact points. Meaning, just cause it's touching, doesn't mean it matters.

I'm not going to give you my opinion on what the best lift is out of fear of plugging some else's company, I just wanted you to know, you have to research and discern on your own

 

you'll forgive me but... what you're saying make absolutely no sense at all. keeping all 4 on the floor WILL give you traction as well as stability and big flex will allow you to do just that. a LACK of flex will cause you to hang tires and a tire in the air won't do jack for you.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p2h-qBU5Xhg i just wanted you to know - you have to research and discern on your own

 

NICE PICS!

 

Great video.

It wasn't me really wanting a company plugged but more trying to figure out what attributes to a good suspension setup. I'd rather piece together a kit I think is the best then buy a pre made kit, unless it really is that much better. I'm new to suspension stuff, but I'm pretty 'mechanically inclined' I guess you could say. More than just beating shit with a hammer till it works. Haha. But.. From what I've read a long arm won't gain me as much as someone with a 5+ in lift would.. Its not off the table but I'm considering everything. And the only reason I was wondering about moving the axle back was it looked a little forward, gotta trim anyway for the 37s but it just looked off.

 

i think, an correct me if i'm wrong, that the best way to go is a coil over kit. you can agjust your ride hight to give you the low COG, but it should flex the same whether it is setup for the most height or the least. correct?

The ORE kt gives something like 3-6 inches of lift, so it it was set up for 3 inches, is should still flex the same as if it was set up of 6 inches right, just less upward wheel travel but the opposite wheel would droop forever!

 

i'm not sure where you read that but at 4" of lift or more on a 2-door and running 37's, a long arm kit is the way to go if you can afford it. among other things, long arms will help restore your control arms geometry to being closer to stock and your ride will be much better. you can do it with factory length arms but the quality of your ride will be diminished.

as far as moving your axle back goes, there's only so much you can push it back (very little in fact especially on a 2-door) as doing so will cause your coils to hit the track bar.

 

there are a lot of factors that can limit flex but ultimately, your biggest limiting factor in flex is shock length. coil overs will allow you to have the most flex but they are also the most expensive and modification intensive solution.

 

afdude87,

Consider the OME Long Travel Suspension with HD Coils.

I have a bunch of pictures on my Two Door running 35's.

I have gone out a few times since installing the kit and I have never once flexed it out to the max, since I'm not disconnecting sway bars at this point in time.

 

but you can have both the flex and the low cog with coil overs right?