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My 2 cents on 35's

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Old Jun 2, 2009 | 10:14 AM
  #21  
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For most uses I would say the 4.88 or 4.56 gears for a 6-speed and 35s.
But if I was going to change from the 4.10s, I'd definitely do the 5.13s.

Sure, may not want to cruise at 80mph taching up to 3400 rpm, but 75 at 3100 isn't too bad, and truthfully 75+ in a lifted 2 door Jeep on 35" mud tires is probably pushing your luck anyway. I do a 40 mile commute a couple of times a week, and here lately I've been using the interstate because of some road construction, but usually I run the secondary roads at 65mph because I prefer them, especially in a Jeep.

If you are going to make long interstate stretches in your Jeep, and have to go faster than 75mph, well 5.13 gears probably aren't for you. However, the owner of the 2 door 6-speed with 5.13s and 35" Toyos (he's one of those below the radar survivalist type guys) I test drove does it all the time, gas mileage sucks, but it will at 80mph with any gears. He's logged many a mile at 3.5K on the tach, and his Jeep runs great and uses no oil at all.
If there is a real downside, I'm not sure what it is. He said his mileage decreased almost 2.0 mpg from the 4.10s. And he had to have one of his driveshafts re-balanced.

And in town, you really can skip 1st, even on hills. I found I could start in and wind 2cnd to 3K, then drop it in 4th or even 5th. Or go 1st to 3rd, then 6th.
It's very pleasant around town, no lack of power anywhere.

Offroad, 4-HI is much better, and 4-LO is what it should be. With the Rubicon 4:1 transfer case descending hills isn't much drama, especially if you have good aired down mud tires.
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Old Jun 2, 2009 | 10:16 AM
  #22  
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For you guys planning a re-gear, I would highly recommend adding lockers if you don't already have them. I recently went from 3.21's to 4.88's and went ahead and added lockers. The gears made wheeling easier, no doubt....but the lockers by far made the most difference.
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Old Jun 2, 2009 | 10:32 AM
  #23  
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IMHO, the quest for Big Meats oftentimes overshadows more important modifications (or at least the logical chronological order of those mods):
  1. traction (good -not necessarily big- tires; lockers)
  2. recovery (winches; shackles; tow hooks)
  3. ground clearance via lifts and tires
Ever heard of Ber Knight? He's a retired fellow in his 70s who has conquered every trail in Moab with a 4-cylinder '86 CJ-7 sporting 33" tires and a infrequently used 3,500 pound winch.

So... when I get to the point I can outdrive my JK (a superior off-road platform compared to the CJ), I guess I'll stick with a rear locker, 3" suspension, 33s and a 9,500 pound Warn ... and I probably have more than I really need.
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Old Jun 2, 2009 | 10:43 AM
  #24  
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The highest ranking "performance" mod on my wish list is 34" or 35" tires.
I'm not so worried about onroad, but offroad, with 3.73 gears and a non-Rubi t-case, I might be struggling.

I wouldn't want something much wider than what I have in the 255/75-17 rubi tire, but just tire height to gain an inch or so of ground clearance for the diff and axle.

An LōD front stubby is still tops on the "armor" wish list.
I may rethink that and go for some diff and/or oilpan protection first, though.
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Old Jun 2, 2009 | 10:55 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by opdsgt
IMHO, the quest for Big Meats oftentimes overshadows more important modifications (or at least the logical chronological order of those mods):
  1. traction (good -not necessarily big- tires; lockers)
  2. recovery (winches; shackles; tow hooks)
  3. ground clearance via lifts and tires
Ever heard of Ber Knight? He's a retired fellow in his 70s who has conquered every trail in Moab with a 4-cylinder '86 CJ-7 sporting 33" tires and a infrequently used 3,500 pound winch.

So... when I get to the point I can outdrive my JK (a superior off-road platform compared to the CJ), I guess I'll stick with a rear locker, 3" suspension, 33s and a 9,500 pound Warn ... and I probably have more than I really need.
Not to be the Bearer of bad news. but it also comes down down to how well you handle your rig. My JK is totally stock. and yet i still drive circles around jeeps that have lockers and 2" lifts with 33"s. it all comes down to how you drive and how big your balls are sometimes. (or just how stupid you are at that time) i have no locker and 29" stock tires from the factory. i know what i can and cant do. most people dont realize just how capable the JK really is.

there are things that i have done in my JK that i though it should not do. everytime i wheel i learn something new about my JK. and increase my knowlage about wheeling!
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Old Jun 2, 2009 | 11:01 AM
  #26  
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i plan on getting lockers but those i can't add on top of gears right just too much $$ i have enough to get the gears and get them installed.
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Old Jun 2, 2009 | 11:23 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by greenamphibious
4.10, auto, and 35s here.... no problems.... but I will regear to 5.13s one day
Running 5.13's with 33's right now and it's suprisingly a nice setup. Get the 35's in less than 2 weeks
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Old Jun 2, 2009 | 01:02 PM
  #28  
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I just put a 3" TF lift and run 35's on my automatic Unlimited with 4.10 gears. I was dreading the loss of power but I am surprised! After all the horror stories I have read on here it really doesn't feel that bad at all. Now I am torn between getting new gears or just a Procal instead...

Sure I want that gas milage back but can I get it with just the procal? Maybe a little more power too would be nice....
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Old Jun 4, 2009 | 11:32 PM
  #29  
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That guy said "y'all"
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Old Jun 5, 2009 | 03:13 AM
  #30  
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It's nice to see so many people with 6 speeds not feeling the immediate need to re-gear as has been my experience. Certainly I'd like some steeper gears than the 3.73s I have with my 35s but I still have a useable 6th gear on the highway flats and I'm still rolling out in 2nd a fair amount of the time.

My experience has led me to believe that I'd be better off taking a hard look at 37s before doing gears as I believe without adding a bunch of additional weight I could roll just fine on 4.88s.
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