My thoughts on lifts
11-09-2017, 07:43 AM
#652
JK Newbie
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: WI
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Dirtman has some really good info here.
I'd contribute an example:
With flat flares and minimal trimming of the rear fender well pinch seam, 35" tires can be run on 4.5" or less backspaced wheels with stock front bumpstops and about 2" rear extended bumpstops. So, you could run shocks that measure up to about 15" collapsed in the front and about 17.5" collapsed in the rear without bottoming them out. To gain more than stock articulation (flex), you'd run as long a shock as your springs would permit, as long as the collapsed length of the shock was at or less than the 15"/17.5".
With the same flat flares and rear pinch seam trimming, 37" tires can be run with 1.25" front and 2.5" rear extended bumpstops.
So, as an example for someone wanting more articulation (flex) with a mild lift of 2.5"-3":
You can run OME 11.5" travel shocks (16" collapsed and 27.5" extended) with 1.25" front extended bumpstops and longer front brakelines--and longer front swaybar links if you run them off road with a Rubi disconnect system.
You can run EVO RockStar (or similar) rear skids/shock relocation brackets that raise the rear lower shock and swaybar link mounting points about 1.5" with 11.5" travel OME shocks (16.5" collapsed and 28" extended), 2.5" rear extended bumpstops, longer brakelines, and longer swaybar links.
With this setup, you would need springs that can handle 11.5" travel without unseating. The rear coils would need lower coil retainers. OME HD springs can handle it. Metalcloak and Rock Krawler 2.5" springs should be able to handle it.
With 11.5" travel at the shock, you will want a flex joint (spherical joint) at atleast one end of at least the lower control arms. The front axle side upper control arm bushings in the axle will last longer if the front upper arms have a joint at the frame side instead of a bushing.
That setup, with appropriate adjustable trackbars, will RTI 1000 on a 2 dr JK with close to stock wheelbase.
The setup significantly increases articulation (flex) over stock because the combination of shock lengths and rear mounting points, extended bumpstops, longer brakelines, longer swaybar links, longer uncompressed spring lengths, etc. allows the full use of 11.5" travel shocks.
I haven't ever measured the actual usable shock travel with the stock setup, but I would be surprised if more than 7"-8" shock travel is useable.
I'd contribute an example:
With flat flares and minimal trimming of the rear fender well pinch seam, 35" tires can be run on 4.5" or less backspaced wheels with stock front bumpstops and about 2" rear extended bumpstops. So, you could run shocks that measure up to about 15" collapsed in the front and about 17.5" collapsed in the rear without bottoming them out. To gain more than stock articulation (flex), you'd run as long a shock as your springs would permit, as long as the collapsed length of the shock was at or less than the 15"/17.5".
With the same flat flares and rear pinch seam trimming, 37" tires can be run with 1.25" front and 2.5" rear extended bumpstops.
So, as an example for someone wanting more articulation (flex) with a mild lift of 2.5"-3":
You can run OME 11.5" travel shocks (16" collapsed and 27.5" extended) with 1.25" front extended bumpstops and longer front brakelines--and longer front swaybar links if you run them off road with a Rubi disconnect system.
You can run EVO RockStar (or similar) rear skids/shock relocation brackets that raise the rear lower shock and swaybar link mounting points about 1.5" with 11.5" travel OME shocks (16.5" collapsed and 28" extended), 2.5" rear extended bumpstops, longer brakelines, and longer swaybar links.
With this setup, you would need springs that can handle 11.5" travel without unseating. The rear coils would need lower coil retainers. OME HD springs can handle it. Metalcloak and Rock Krawler 2.5" springs should be able to handle it.
With 11.5" travel at the shock, you will want a flex joint (spherical joint) at atleast one end of at least the lower control arms. The front axle side upper control arm bushings in the axle will last longer if the front upper arms have a joint at the frame side instead of a bushing.
That setup, with appropriate adjustable trackbars, will RTI 1000 on a 2 dr JK with close to stock wheelbase.
The setup significantly increases articulation (flex) over stock because the combination of shock lengths and rear mounting points, extended bumpstops, longer brakelines, longer swaybar links, longer uncompressed spring lengths, etc. allows the full use of 11.5" travel shocks.
I haven't ever measured the actual usable shock travel with the stock setup, but I would be surprised if more than 7"-8" shock travel is useable.
11-12-2017, 11:07 AM
#655
JK Freak
When people ask about lifts I doubt they are really asking "Which is the best lift for how I off road" They are really asking "which is the best lift to get me the most high fives".
11-22-2017, 11:23 AM
#657
JK Enthusiast
I'm new to lifted Jeeps, so I want to make sure I understand what I'm reading. I just purchased a 2015 JKU Sport that has 33x12.5 tires and a Teraflex budget boost. It seems a little top heavy, which may be due to not having a raised rear track bar bracket (which I'm about to install) or a camber that's incorrect and can't be adjusted w/o adjustable control arms.
If I were to change out the fenders, I could remove the lift and get back the factory handling characteristics? The larger tires get some additional ground clearance on the axles, but I would loose a little on the breakover angle because the belly of the Jeep would be dropped back by 2+ inches. I have Sahara 7-spoke wheels. Does the backspace matter in any way on these as to whether or not I can remove the lift?
If I were to change out the fenders, I could remove the lift and get back the factory handling characteristics? The larger tires get some additional ground clearance on the axles, but I would loose a little on the breakover angle because the belly of the Jeep would be dropped back by 2+ inches. I have Sahara 7-spoke wheels. Does the backspace matter in any way on these as to whether or not I can remove the lift?
11-22-2017, 04:21 PM
#658
JK Jedi
Thread Starter
Since the tires are 12.5" wide it is recommended to run a wheel with less back space or some wheel adapters to push the factory wheel out a bit. Everything else you said looks to be correct.
12-10-2017, 09:34 PM
#659
JK Newbie
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Barrington
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Hey guys. I've read up as much as I can and just want to double check before I place my order.
I have a 2012 JKU with the 6spd and 3.73 w/LSD.
I dont really ever offroad, I just use it as my DD. I have 40k Miles on my stockers and finally need new tires so its time to finally put something meatier on. I dont need or want anything crazy so here was what I was thinking.
Teraflex leveling kit w/o shocks
A 16x8 wheel in the procomp series 69 or level 8 tracker style with 4.5" backspacing. (I cant seem to find this in stock anywhere, any help?)
BFG A/T K02 in 285/75r16 or 305/70r16, I'd like the look of the wider tire if it fits well, if not 285 it is. I live in the NW suburbs of Chicagoland so I need something that will work in the snow/winter, and I think these tires should be do well. My brother has the 285/75r16 on his FJ Cruiser and they work pretty well.
If I cant do the 16x8 I guess I can up it to a 17x9 with the 305/70r17, or something else in a 17. I have not looked too much into 17s yet.
It seems like a good basic setup that I can get done in under 2k for the leveling kit, 5 wheels/tires and not cause much headache.
Thanks in advance.
I have a 2012 JKU with the 6spd and 3.73 w/LSD.
I dont really ever offroad, I just use it as my DD. I have 40k Miles on my stockers and finally need new tires so its time to finally put something meatier on. I dont need or want anything crazy so here was what I was thinking.
Teraflex leveling kit w/o shocks
A 16x8 wheel in the procomp series 69 or level 8 tracker style with 4.5" backspacing. (I cant seem to find this in stock anywhere, any help?)
BFG A/T K02 in 285/75r16 or 305/70r16, I'd like the look of the wider tire if it fits well, if not 285 it is. I live in the NW suburbs of Chicagoland so I need something that will work in the snow/winter, and I think these tires should be do well. My brother has the 285/75r16 on his FJ Cruiser and they work pretty well.
If I cant do the 16x8 I guess I can up it to a 17x9 with the 305/70r17, or something else in a 17. I have not looked too much into 17s yet.
It seems like a good basic setup that I can get done in under 2k for the leveling kit, 5 wheels/tires and not cause much headache.
Thanks in advance.
Last edited by Anjunafan; 12-10-2017 at 09:56 PM.
12-13-2017, 03:45 PM
#660
JK Super Freak
Hey guys. I've read up as much as I can and just want to double check before I place my order. I have a 2012 JKU with the 6spd and 3.73 w/LSD. I dont really ever offroad, I just use it as my DD. I have 40k Miles on my stockers and finally need new tires so its time to finally put something meatier on. I dont need or want anything crazy so here was what I was thinking. Teraflex leveling kit w/o shocks A 16x8 wheel in the procomp series 69 or level 8 tracker style with 4.5" backspacing. (I cant seem to find this in stock anywhere, any help?) BFG A/T K02 in 285/75r16 or 305/70r16, I'd like the look of the wider tire if it fits well, if not 285 it is. I live in the NW suburbs of Chicagoland so I need something that will work in the snow/winter, and I think these tires should be do well. My brother has the 285/75r16 on his FJ Cruiser and they work pretty well. If I cant do the 16x8 I guess I can up it to a 17x9 with the 305/70r17, or something else in a 17. I have not looked too much into 17s yet. It seems like a good basic setup that I can get done in under 2k for the leveling kit, 5 wheels/tires and not cause much headache. Thanks in advance.
