Originally Posted by TheDirtman (Post 4307766)

Your thinking is correct.

Originally Posted by planman (Post 3706253)

Dirtman has some really good info here.

I'd contribute an example:

With flat flares and minimal trimming of the rear fender well pinch seam, 35" tires can be run on 4.5" or less backspaced wheels with stock front bumpstops and about 2" rear extended bumpstops. So, you could run shocks that measure up to about 15" collapsed in the front and about 17.5" collapsed in the rear without bottoming them out. To gain more than stock articulation (flex), you'd run as long a shock as your springs would permit, as long as the collapsed length of the shock was at or less than the 15"/17.5".

With the same flat flares and rear pinch seam trimming, 37" tires can be run with 1.25" front and 2.5" rear extended bumpstops.

So, as an example for someone wanting more articulation (flex) with a mild lift of 2.5"-3":

You can run OME 11.5" travel shocks (16" collapsed and 27.5" extended) with 1.25" front extended bumpstops and longer front brakelines--and longer front swaybar links if you run them off road with a Rubi disconnect system.

You can run EVO RockStar (or similar) rear skids/shock relocation brackets that raise the rear lower shock and swaybar link mounting points about 1.5" with 11.5" travel OME shocks (16.5" collapsed and 28" extended), 2.5" rear extended bumpstops, longer brakelines, and longer swaybar links.

With this setup, you would need springs that can handle 11.5" travel without unseating. The rear coils would need lower coil retainers. OME HD springs can handle it. Metalcloak and Rock Krawler 2.5" springs should be able to handle it.

With 11.5" travel at the shock, you will want a flex joint (spherical joint) at atleast one end of at least the lower control arms. The front axle side upper control arm bushings in the axle will last longer if the front upper arms have a joint at the frame side instead of a bushing.

That setup, with appropriate adjustable trackbars, will RTI 1000 on a 2 dr JK with close to stock wheelbase.

The setup significantly increases articulation (flex) over stock because the combination of shock lengths and rear mounting points, extended bumpstops, longer brakelines, longer swaybar links, longer uncompressed spring lengths, etc. allows the full use of 11.5" travel shocks.

I haven't ever measured the actual usable shock travel with the stock setup, but I would be surprised if more than 7"-8" shock travel is useable.

Originally Posted by Jman78 (Post 4307906)

Would this also apply to a 4 door?

Originally Posted by planman (Post 4308065)

Yes. It would be the same.

Originally Posted by Anjunafan (Post 4309641)

Hey guys. I've read up as much as I can and just want to double check before I place my order. I have a 2012 JKU with the 6spd and 3.73 w/LSD. I dont really ever offroad, I just use it as my DD. I have 40k Miles on my stockers and finally need new tires so its time to finally put something meatier on. I dont need or want anything crazy so here was what I was thinking. Teraflex leveling kit w/o shocks A 16x8 wheel in the procomp series 69 or level 8 tracker style with 4.5" backspacing. (I cant seem to find this in stock anywhere, any help?) BFG A/T K02 in 285/75r16 or 305/70r16, I'd like the look of the wider tire if it fits well, if not 285 it is. I live in the NW suburbs of Chicagoland so I need something that will work in the snow/winter, and I think these tires should be do well. My brother has the 285/75r16 on his FJ Cruiser and they work pretty well. If I cant do the 16x8 I guess I can up it to a 17x9 with the 305/70r17, or something else in a 17. I have not looked too much into 17s yet. It seems like a good basic setup that I can get done in under 2k for the leveling kit, 5 wheels/tires and not cause much headache. Thanks in advance.