Ryan_AustinJKU

Anyone have any great idea on how to get a broken bolt out of a differential. Installing poison spider bombshells and torque wrench was set on 25 never clicked and snapped a bolt. Of course it’s one right by the tie rod so it’s impossible to drill strait without taking that off. Bolt extractor isn’t working. Thinking about using all the rest of the bolts and just filling that hole with silicon to prevent leaks already running lube locker on that dif. What’s y’all opinion I know others have broken bolts I just can’t get that damn bolt out. Worse case scenario I’ll drop the tie rod and drill it all out then use a helion or whatever to rethread it. Definitely not trusting a ft/lb torque wrench ever again for low range specs.

tjkamp

My guess is the bolt bottomed out, same thing happened on mine (adding a rough country skid). I put it together and tried it, it ended up weeping pretty bad. I tried to drill it myself, couldn't make it go straight. Broke down and took it in to a shop. They charged me more for the diff-fluid to re-fill it than they did for the work.

Ryan_AustinJKU

Yea it’s kinda off centered because of the tie rod. Waiting till tomorrow to figure out my plan, it’s my daily driver and need to drive tomorrow evening so may try to weld a nut onto the broken part. Never welded before so should he interesting. No good jeep shops near me. Plus would have to waste oil to get it to a shop but what’s 30$.

resharp001

I've broken one there before and was able to retrieve it with an easy out. Especially if you were just putting it in, it shouldn't be difficult to back out if you can just get an easy out to bite on it. I would take the time to get the TR out of the way if you can't get to the bolt straight on with it installed.

Ryan_AustinJKU

Yea I’m trying to wack the tie rod out now with a rubber mallet. Letting some wd40 do its work at the moment. Went ahead and bought a m8 removal bit and tap so worse case Scenario gonna still the whole nut out and retap it. Hopefully that does the trick because I really don’t wanna take the “walk of shame” to a shop and let them do it.

jadmt

use a 3 or 4lb hammer on the tie rod. put the nut back on part way so you dont bugger the threads. also hit the side of the knuckle where the tie rod goes in and most of the time that will pop it loose. rubber mallets generally just absorb the impact so won't knock something tight loose.

Ryan_AustinJKU

What I’m about to do, appreciate it! Hope a regular wood working hammer works or else I’m back to the hardware store for the 3rd time.

jadmt

also make the nut flush with the stud so you don't screw up the nut threads.

Ryan_AustinJKU

Got that on already. Last thing I need is to damage or break another bolt/ threads

Ryan_AustinJKU

Here’s my outcome for anyone else who checks out this thread. Couldn’t get the bolt out after hours of messing with it, dropped tie rod to drill strainer etc. decided to seal it up, shouldn’t be a issue with 9/10 bolts and a little extra RVT silicon in the broken part (7-8:00 position) tightening all the others down with a 3/8 drive since torque wrench failed me last time (probably because it’s a low measurement. Is tekton brand) on the 1:00 position but it kept spinning feels not yet hand tight and snap. Broke another. So far no leaks have silicon in jeep along with diff oil in case a small leak forms, no idea if I’ll hit any trails before the “problems” fixed. Am definitely emailing poison spyders costumer service because bolts shouldn’t break that easily, may just call it a loss and have a out side shop check it out. Curious if anyone else has had an issue like this and continued to wheel until it’s fixed, I’ve never smacked a Dif Cover yet but first time for everything, why I bought the bombshells.