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New drag link and ball joints
Hey guys, I believe I blew out the ball joints on my last trip. I have upward travel on my drag link. I was going to replace just the ball joint but should I go ahead and buy a new "stronger" one? Synergy sells one for 250 is that a good deal?
Thanks! |
If you blew out your stock draglink, then yes. The Synergy has 2 greasable tres that last a helluva lot longer than Maintaince Free Teflon plastic joints. I have a Synergy and it's one of the best deals out there.
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Only joint i would install now is Rare parts. Contact Fusion4x4, i warn you they are pricey but the last joint you will ever buy.
Drag link, pick your poison. Synergy is popular, SteerSmarts, prob overkill for most people but massive. |
Originally Posted by blamb0830
(Post 4200484)
Hey guys, I believe I blew out the ball joints on my last trip. I have upward travel on my drag link. I was going to replace just the ball joint but should I go ahead and buy a new "stronger" one? Synergy sells one for 250 is that a good deal? Thanks!
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I Have a Brand New Synergy Drag Link if you are interested? I haven't even opened the box yet.
Paid $225 for it, make me a offer. |
Originally Posted by PsychoCupcake
(Post 4200491)
A lot of talk on the forum these days about drag links, tie rods, and ball joints. I would strongly recommend checking out Fusion 4x4 (fusion 4x4). I believe they offer a discount for forum members. I'm currently running their 2.5 ton setup and couldn't be happier. As they say... their steering components will be the last you ever buy. Check them out.
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Plenty of people do it, but I can't speak directly to this as I did not flip my drag link. The 2.5 ton kit has the same taper as your stock JK, so it didn't require drilling it out like 1 ton ends do.
So currently mine are mounted in the stock configuration and I have a set of Reid knuckles that will go on at a later date (changing my suspension, so I'm waiting until that is complete to install the knuckles). The Reid's flip the drag link but maintain the stock taper, so again, no drilling out required. |
Originally Posted by Compliant
(Post 4200680)
Is there any concerns when you drill out the knuckle for the Fusion top mount draglink? Drilling does loose some of the safety factor the Jeep Engineering built into the mounting boss of the knuckle. Lifted Jeeps with large tires adds a lot of stress to these weaken boss areas.
Yes, drilling is not perfect when done at home. However, that is why we use a tapered sleeve with a relief cut. Even if the hole is drilled too large, the taper goes in further and forces a tight mechanical fit. Someone in this thread will cross over from the dark side soon, just give kjeeper time. |
Originally Posted by Fusion 4x4
(Post 4200692)
No offense to people running the Yeti flipped drag link. We went round and round with our engineers and the engineers from a large steering component company. Neither will make a stud for a flipped JK drag link that doesn't require drilling. The math was done every way possible and it was determined that in the use case of a JK (assumes people run 35,37,40 inch tires and take jeep into varying offroad situations) that the diameter used for no drilling is not sufficient. Long story short, we can't even get them made of we wanted to. Yes, drilling is not perfect when done at home. However, that is why we use a tapered sleeve with a relief cut. Even if the hole is drilled too large, the taper goes in further and forces a tight mechanical fit. Someone in this thread will cross over from the dark side soon, just give kjeeper time.
Hold up ... SteerSmarts IS s a "large steering component company" ;) |
Originally Posted by Compliant
(Post 4200680)
Is there any concerns when you drill out the knuckle for the Fusion top mount draglink? Drilling does loose some of the safety factor the Jeep Engineering built into the mounting boss of the knuckle. Lifted Jeeps with large tires adds a lot of stress to these weaken boss areas.
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