New TF HD tie rod and drag link steering question
11-04-2017, 01:28 PM
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New TF HD tie rod and drag link steering question
I just got back from getting my wheels balanced and aligned at Firestone. Last night I installed the Teraflex HD tie rod and Falcon 2.3 adjustable steering stabilizer.
What I’m noticing is that the new steering stabilizer is doing a great job removing any of the bump steering that happened before. I think it’s a great upgrade, but I feel my system has some more dialing that needs to occur.
Here is my alignment paperwork that Firestone gave me: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1Jv...meRaIQtHrKYEc4
What I am noticing is that my steering feels firm when turning the wheel. Would it be correct to assume that this is due to the ball joints on the tie rod and drag link being ‘very firm’ during my install? Or could this just be a break in period? I pumped them with grease after the install to help, maybe they need more?
Open to any suggestions or thoughts. Thanks!
I should also note that I have an adjustable control arm kit installed. Looking at my camber numbers it seems left to right is not the same. Maybe this could cause some steering issues and I should look to adjust those arms?
What I’m noticing is that the new steering stabilizer is doing a great job removing any of the bump steering that happened before. I think it’s a great upgrade, but I feel my system has some more dialing that needs to occur.
Here is my alignment paperwork that Firestone gave me: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1Jv...meRaIQtHrKYEc4
What I am noticing is that my steering feels firm when turning the wheel. Would it be correct to assume that this is due to the ball joints on the tie rod and drag link being ‘very firm’ during my install? Or could this just be a break in period? I pumped them with grease after the install to help, maybe they need more?
Open to any suggestions or thoughts. Thanks!
I should also note that I have an adjustable control arm kit installed. Looking at my camber numbers it seems left to right is not the same. Maybe this could cause some steering issues and I should look to adjust those arms?
Last edited by BradleyC; 11-04-2017 at 02:01 PM.
11-04-2017, 02:28 PM
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Your steering stabilizer is what you feel making your steering stiff. To be sure, remove the stabilizer and go for a ride and see how that feels.
PS if your steering is set up properly there is no need at all for the steering stabilizer.
PS if your steering is set up properly there is no need at all for the steering stabilizer.
11-05-2017, 07:16 PM
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Took her out this weekend. The steering seems to have broke in and is feeling good now. My buddy and I took notice that my steering box may need adjusting, or a rebuild. Going to dive deeper in to that later this week.
11-07-2017, 09:43 AM
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JK Jedi
Dang Falcon SS is the new FOX....smh....I'll never understand why everyone thinks they need a flashy $230+ SS, but whatevs.
11-07-2017, 06:05 PM
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Was the bumpsteer previously caused by worn TR and DL joints? I'm curious since you say the SS is now doing a great job "removing any of the bump steering that happened before". If it was caused by worn joints, then replacing the components is what has corrected it. If anything, a SS just covers that stuff up.....it doesn't fix the problem. Curious how much lift you have since it's not in your profile.
Dang Falcon SS is the new FOX....smh....I'll never understand why everyone thinks they need a flashy $230+ SS, but whatevs.
Dang Falcon SS is the new FOX....smh....I'll never understand why everyone thinks they need a flashy $230+ SS, but whatevs.
Anyways, I have the TF 3” Outback lift. Alpine short arms, and 35”(ish) BFG KM2’s.
Curious if anyone took a look at my alignments numbers. I hate having someone else work on my Jeep as I hate not knowing what someone is doing to it. Curious if they just glossed over something to get me riding decent enough to fork over the cash.
The difference in toe angles from L to R has me wondering if that’s why it is pulling to the left slightly. Overall there are some differing angles that involved curious if at correctable. Is there a site where I can punch these numbers in and see a graphical representation of what’s going on with the angles?
Last edited by BradleyC; 11-07-2017 at 06:08 PM.
11-07-2017, 06:37 PM
#7
JK Jedi
I was mainly focused on your bumpsteer issue as that should be correctable, and just making sure you weren't just trying to cover it up with SS. Was curious about lift hight just to see if you had flipped the DL or if that might be an option to help with bump steer. You're just verging on that threshold depending on how much actual lift you're netting. I drove a couple years with 3.5"+ lift without flipping. It wasn't bad, but I would experience some bump steer. It was a fairly stark difference to me once I finally flipped. One of those......"oh, this is what it's supposed to be like" things.
Looking at the alignment specs, your total toe looks acceptable, but .6* of difference between left and right caster seems like a decent margin to me, especially for having adjustable arms to dial it in. I'd pop underneath there and measure em to see if they are different lengths. Measure from middle of frame bolt to middle of axle bolt. I have had mine at different lengths before testing something.....and it was also the one time that it threw camber out of spec too. Since you have having a pulling issue, I'd focus on those arms. The lower arms are placing your axle.....so outside of having some bent bracketry or some other "X" factory, those arms should be the same length. You upper arms are adjusting the caster. Assuming your lower arms are the same length.....it would seem to me that your passenger side upper arm needs to be shortened just a bit in order to raise the passenger side caster more inline with the driver's side of 4.7*.
Looking at the alignment specs, your total toe looks acceptable, but .6* of difference between left and right caster seems like a decent margin to me, especially for having adjustable arms to dial it in. I'd pop underneath there and measure em to see if they are different lengths. Measure from middle of frame bolt to middle of axle bolt. I have had mine at different lengths before testing something.....and it was also the one time that it threw camber out of spec too. Since you have having a pulling issue, I'd focus on those arms. The lower arms are placing your axle.....so outside of having some bent bracketry or some other "X" factory, those arms should be the same length. You upper arms are adjusting the caster. Assuming your lower arms are the same length.....it would seem to me that your passenger side upper arm needs to be shortened just a bit in order to raise the passenger side caster more inline with the driver's side of 4.7*.
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11-08-2017, 12:53 PM
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I was mainly focused on your bumpsteer issue as that should be correctable, and just making sure you weren't just trying to cover it up with SS. Was curious about lift hight just to see if you had flipped the DL or if that might be an option to help with bump steer. You're just verging on that threshold depending on how much actual lift you're netting. I drove a couple years with 3.5"+ lift without flipping. It wasn't bad, but I would experience some bump steer. It was a fairly stark difference to me once I finally flipped. One of those......"oh, this is what it's supposed to be like" things.
Looking at the alignment specs, your total toe looks acceptable, but .6* of difference between left and right caster seems like a decent margin to me, especially for having adjustable arms to dial it in. I'd pop underneath there and measure em to see if they are different lengths. Measure from middle of frame bolt to middle of axle bolt. I have had mine at different lengths before testing something.....and it was also the one time that it threw camber out of spec too. Since you have having a pulling issue, I'd focus on those arms. The lower arms are placing your axle.....so outside of having some bent bracketry or some other "X" factory, those arms should be the same length. You upper arms are adjusting the caster. Assuming your lower arms are the same length.....it would seem to me that your passenger side upper arm needs to be shortened just a bit in order to raise the passenger side caster more inline with the driver's side of 4.7*.
Looking at the alignment specs, your total toe looks acceptable, but .6* of difference between left and right caster seems like a decent margin to me, especially for having adjustable arms to dial it in. I'd pop underneath there and measure em to see if they are different lengths. Measure from middle of frame bolt to middle of axle bolt. I have had mine at different lengths before testing something.....and it was also the one time that it threw camber out of spec too. Since you have having a pulling issue, I'd focus on those arms. The lower arms are placing your axle.....so outside of having some bent bracketry or some other "X" factory, those arms should be the same length. You upper arms are adjusting the caster. Assuming your lower arms are the same length.....it would seem to me that your passenger side upper arm needs to be shortened just a bit in order to raise the passenger side caster more inline with the driver's side of 4.7*.
Than you!
11-28-2017, 10:10 PM
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Updated my profile with my build specs.
I got under the jeep today and it seemed like the lower arms were the same length, bolt center to bolt. I’ll double check again tomorrow since the rain is gone now.
Thanks again for the help. If anyone else has any input that would be great.
A buddy and I were checking my steering the other day, and it seems that there may be some slip in my box. Going to need to check in to that a bit more.
I got under the jeep today and it seemed like the lower arms were the same length, bolt center to bolt. I’ll double check again tomorrow since the rain is gone now.
Thanks again for the help. If anyone else has any input that would be great.
A buddy and I were checking my steering the other day, and it seems that there may be some slip in my box. Going to need to check in to that a bit more.
11-29-2017, 05:40 AM
#10
JK Jedi
Since those lowers appear to be the same length, it would seem your right upper arm needs to be shortened a bit (raising caster on that side). This may not have an effect on what you're experiencing, but it's a starting point at least and would bring your cross caster more in-line.