Next phase for my JK - EVO double throw down w/Lever system, but long or short arm?
08-01-2017, 10:54 PM
#21
JK Junkie
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Location: CT
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Update on the jeeps were are working on. One has run the double throw down with the rear lever on 37's for around 40,000 miles and is getting the xd60/D80 axle swap. We have the brackets tacked and the axles mounted and the set up is a disappointment. We didn't do anything with the factory set up as far as cycling as we did not do that install but with the front high steer set up things don't line up right and look like you are going to have to run quite a bit of lift to make it work, The new set up is with 40" trail grapplers and the customer wants to notch the frame but the tie rod and drag link hit each other at the point where the track bar bracket hits the bottom of the frame. We also only have about an inch of up travel on the driver side before the the rod hits the pitman arm. We had to push the axle forward about 1.5" in order to clear the frame side track bar bracket. With all these clearance issues we still have a good 2" of shaft showing on the 12" travel shocks using the EVO shock brackets. Without notching the frame and track bar in contact with the frame the tire makes contact with the bumper and ride height and full lock. We make contact with the fender and bumper at full articulation/lock on the passenger side so notching the frame will only make it worse. To make things work well it looks like we need to raise the lower mounds up at least 2" and run a pretty good amount of lift. I would say we are going to be in the 6"+ range to allow the shocks to work properly and clear the 40's. Cycling the rear lever set up show a crazy amount of rear steer. At full stuff/droop down tire moves forward 7" and the up side tire moves 3" backward. With a 40" tire on, it looks crazy and requires trimming to the tubes on the fenders. The shocks are not fully utilized either and I would say there is roughly an inch each side of articulation in the shocks not being used. I am looking for anyone running this set up to give me some dimensions of what your set up is at. It would be helpful to have a ground to bottom of frame measurement along with how much shock shaft you have showing at ride height. A photo of the passenger wheel stuffed while the driver side is fully drooped out that shows the tie rod and drag link at the frame. Thanks for any info I can get as we are scratching our heads as how people run this set up while fully using the shock travel.
08-02-2017, 06:41 AM
#22
JK Jedi
Thats the problem, the customer reads the bullshit on that forum and wants us to do something that is impossible. He wants to run 40' with 3.5" of lift (eddie runs 3.5" or so he says) and be able to run fast in the bumps without bottoming out with no bump stops up front.
08-03-2017, 11:29 AM
#23
JK Enthusiast
I'm looking through pics and trying to find what you're looking for. I'm on 40's and can tuck all the way around with no issues. It's not cranked up as typically I'm told Evo likes to run more droop than rebound. I can get whatever measurements you need as well. I'll keep going through pics.
08-03-2017, 11:39 AM
#24
JK Enthusiast
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: San Diego, CA
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Update on the jeeps were are working on. One has run the double throw down with the rear lever on 37's for around 40,000 miles and is getting the xd60/D80 axle swap. We have the brackets tacked and the axles mounted and the set up is a disappointment. We didn't do anything with the factory set up as far as cycling as we did not do that install but with the front high steer set up things don't line up right and look like you are going to have to run quite a bit of lift to make it work, The new set up is with 40" trail grapplers and the customer wants to notch the frame but the tie rod and drag link hit each other at the point where the track bar bracket hits the bottom of the frame. We also only have about an inch of up travel on the driver side before the the rod hits the pitman arm. We had to push the axle forward about 1.5" in order to clear the frame side track bar bracket. With all these clearance issues we still have a good 2" of shaft showing on the 12" travel shocks using the EVO shock brackets. Without notching the frame and track bar in contact with the frame the tire makes contact with the bumper and ride height and full lock. We make contact with the fender and bumper at full articulation/lock on the passenger side so notching the frame will only make it worse. To make things work well it looks like we need to raise the lower mounds up at least 2" and run a pretty good amount of lift. I would say we are going to be in the 6"+ range to allow the shocks to work properly and clear the 40's. Cycling the rear lever set up show a crazy amount of rear steer. At full stuff/droop down tire moves forward 7" and the up side tire moves 3" backward. With a 40" tire on, it looks crazy and requires trimming to the tubes on the fenders. The shocks are not fully utilized either and I would say there is roughly an inch each side of articulation in the shocks not being used.
I am looking for anyone running this set up to give me some dimensions of what your set up is at. It would be helpful to have a ground to bottom of frame measurement along with how much shock shaft you have showing at ride height. A photo of the passenger wheel stuffed while the driver side is fully drooped out that shows the tie rod and drag link at the frame.
Thanks for any info I can get as we are scratching our heads as how people run this set up while fully using the shock travel.
I am looking for anyone running this set up to give me some dimensions of what your set up is at. It would be helpful to have a ground to bottom of frame measurement along with how much shock shaft you have showing at ride height. A photo of the passenger wheel stuffed while the driver side is fully drooped out that shows the tie rod and drag link at the frame.
Thanks for any info I can get as we are scratching our heads as how people run this set up while fully using the shock travel.
08-03-2017, 09:46 PM
#25
JK Jedi
Yes the high steer kit with Dynatrac XD60 front. Finally talked to off road evolution today and they basically said it works good enough because the people that run it don't know what they are doing. it gets them coil overs and bypasses at a LCOG who cares if it works right or not. We made some changes to some brackets so the track bar is not the bump stop on the passenger side frame and will use all of the available shock travel. We still have a tie rod that hits the frame side track bar bracket at about 1/2 steering at stuff. It even hits the track bar bracket at ride height while turning. We were trying to set it up correctly using all available travel and no conflicts anywhere. We ended up setting the ride height so we have 4" of up travel and the drag link and track bar are not parallel as per instructions from ORE. We pulled the axle as far in as we can with the control arms and set the caster with the upper arm. We had to cut 1.75" out of the center of the axle side shock mount so we could get the bypass and the coil over to full bump 1/8" before the track bar hit the frame. We are going to use the factory drag link and have to fab up a skinny frame side track bar mount to clear the tie rod. Once we resolve that then we can fully articulate it out before pulling the axles for hard welding. At ride height we have 10" between the top of tire and bottom of the flat fenders and should clear the front bumper at full stuff/lock. We are 81" to top of roof.
Last edited by TheDirtman; 08-04-2017 at 07:12 AM.