doba

Yeah. I think if I'm going to spend money I'm going to upgrade a bit. While I like the yeti xd DL I'm not big on the price nor the point that the knuckle side end isn't replaceable. I think I'm going to go with the synergy part. I'm a bit hesitant though cause I'm worried that I'm missing something.

doba

Whelp I pulled the trigger and installed the synergy DL. Nice solid part but unfortunately didn't fix my DW problem.

Gonna run through the checklist but as previously mentioned my tie rod end seem suspect. BJs seem tight.

Has anyone successfully replaced both TRE on a factory tie rod? I realize the alternatives are much better but I'm trying to minimize costs a bit and save the upgrade for later.

doba

Looks like I'm gonna have to throw in the towel and go to my local offroad shop. Everything is tight and while the tie rod ends look like they have some play I'm not convinced that's it.

I also learned that the new Yeti track bars are not compatible with the AEV high steer bracket. Have some minor contact but I can tell that when I hit the trails it's gonna be worse. Also having some contact with the SS and the new Synergy drag link too.

Hopefully the shop can make quick work and I'll report back in the results.

kjeeper10

Whats the compatibility issue?

doba

The back plate of the trackbar bracket isn't enough of an angle to clear the trackbar without making contact. Essentially when you compare a yeti or synergy bracket to an AEV one you can see that the back plate doesn't taper down at a "sharp" enough angle and since the end of the track bar flares out it doesn't clear.

The other is is the SS mount in the bracket allows the drag link to make contact with the mounting bolt. Looking around though i think I saw there are other mount locations for this. Or I might be mistaken.

I think the first issue could be resolved by cutting or clearancing the bracket a bit to allow the track bar to fit. The second issue may be resolved by utilizing an alternate mount location if possible.

kjeeper10

Thanks

doba

Ok, well I wasn't able to get it into the local ORV shop but had my local mechanic look at it.

Now before you guys go blasting my Mechanic, he drives a modified earlier model Rubicon. Not that parts justify the knowledge but from what I can tell, he's running 37's, RCV front axles, TEN rear axles, has a nice Warn Zeon winch on a short front bumper, CB radio, eVO sliders, synergy tie rod, and it has enough scratches to give any hummer owner a heart attack. (sorry on the last part, just sounded good). Again, not that the accessories or condition merit the guy any Rig cred, but given his ASE cert along with the modded rig it's gotta be worth something, right?

Anyway I digress. He went over everything and found no loose steering joint ends, no loose ball joints, no loose bolts, nor any awkward movement or shifting of the track bar as an indication of a wallowed hole. Nothing out of the norm. And THANKFULLY he didn't point at the steering stabilizer. As a matter of fact he pointed out that he isn't even running one right now. The only thing he couldn't do is stick it on his alignment machine to check caster and toe. He did air up my tires from 28 psi to 40 psi and asked that I give that a shot and call him in a week to schedule my State Inspection cause it's due in Oct. (this was last Friday so it was still Sept at the time) and at that time he'll ensure his alignment rack is open and it'll give me some time to test out the air pressure change.

Well what i've found from the air pressure change is that the DW has pretty much subsided. Where I'd get a case of it daily, especially on known bumps, I haven't been able to get it to replicate it at all since. Sure the ride is a bit more harsh than before and I can see where the steering has the tendency to do it, but it doesn't. I'm not saying that it's been fixed, but rather proposing that airing up the tires may be a temporary band aid until the solution can be found for some people. Can't explain why it might work other than the firmer tire transfer a different harmonic wave through the suspension which doesn't resonate causing DW?

Anyway, thought i'd pop in and report my findings, i'm not done with the issue but can live with things the way they are a bit longer while we troubleshoot different things. I plan to schedule that inspection alignment in the next two weeks to see if that may be a root cause, but for now I'm in a better place.

Oh yeah, forgot to mention, my Mechanic had it for almost a full day (not to say he looked at it THAT long) but when I picked it up, i asked what i owed him. He just responded, give what we did a test ride and schedule up that inspection, otherwise don't worry about it. So even if he didn't find the smoking gun, it didn't cost me anything and he gave me a bandaid for it for free! Bet my local ORV shop wouldn't have done that! Not saying they're bad guys but not too often you can get a freebee these days!

Dudarj

I had the same wobble on my 2015 with 5k miles and AEV 3.5". It is my 7th Wrangler, had different setups every time, BB, Procomp, RE, RK, and now AEV. I spent 3 months with this problem. First thing I did was to check everything as Planmans video. I felt some slack on my DL and replaced with a Synergy one. Nothing. Then Balanced the tires and alignment. Still wobbled. Changed all bolts to 9/16. Nada. Changed my TB to a Teraflex Monster. Nada. Did another tire balancing and checked again all balljoints and other joints. Nothing. Took the SS out and the things got worse. DW all the time. I did almost everything possible, tires are 37 BFG KO2's and like new...to end the story, I did what I'm not supposed to. I changed the AEV SS (ome) back the stock one and it was gone. No more DW. It was very hard for me to accept this SS solution, BUT, I did every single thing. I bought another SS after and it felt even better.
My brother bought a bone stock 2014 JKU with 14k miles. First trip and a series of DW. His SS was bent. We replaced it and solved.

Before this, I was the first one saying that a SS was just a band aid to a more serious problem. Now I think frequency dampening should be addressed as well when diagnosing wobble.

NatteyB

Hey Doba,

I dont have any valuable information to add but my situation is extremely similar to yours. Still getting DW after replacing TB and TREs. Going to have an alignment done tomorrow which may help. I have not yet tried airing up to 40psi so I will also see what that does for the dampening of the harmonic resonance (sounds beautiful - feels like death)...next things for me woulds be to replace the Drag Link. Keep me posted on how things turn out and I'll do the same. Good luck!

doba

I ended up getting the alignment and everything checked out ok. So my mechanic tried to drop the control arms to the lowest holes in the bracket for the 4.5" lift. He checked the alignment again and while the numbers changed they were within spec or close. He said to give that a try and if it didn't work we'd try the upper holes. Well the lower holes made it worse so I moved it to the upper 2.5" lift holes and it's so much better. I'm back to the infrequent slight shimmy but have not had full on DW since. The shimmy is so infrequent that I don't mind it at all. Steering may be a bit more sensitive but I really haven't noticed it.

I'm gonna call this fixed for now. I now have 29k miles on my tires and will be due for a new set in 5k -10k mikes and I'm gonna change from the MT MTZs to BFG KO2s. Hopefully that helps and doesn't hurt my current condition.

Let me know if you find anything else cause if there's a better solution I'm all ears.