Plans for my JK
08-22-2014, 10:14 AM
#11
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A shorter lift and flat flares will run 37's, so that is an option if you get talked out of the 3.5". But, if you want the 3.5", get the 3.5". Just be aware of the issues and what will be wanted/needed to correct them.
You can run without the flip and trackbar raise brackets, then add them later if you don't like the way it handles. I was at 4" for a few years before finally getting around to it.
Auto or manual? They have different gearing needs. Depending on current needs and setup, you may be better off gearing for the 37's now (if you 'know' you will end up with them) and living with higher rpm's for a while. Sure beats kicking yourself in the ass for under-gearing, or paying for it a second time.
As noted above, some early 07's came with d35 rear axles (build dates prior to Feb 07, I believe). 4.10 gears were an option for non-rubicon models in 07, as were rubicon axles/e-lockers. If you can, verify specifically what axles and what gears it has. If it has 3.21 gears, you will also need to replace the carrier in the front d30.
When you re-gear, consider adding lockers/limiteds at the same time. It saves a second labor charge since the axles are already ripped apart. (Truetracs are a very good price vs performance option if you don't need full lockers)
If you need to save money, you could try holding off on the front driveshaft until it is slinging grease. (Assuming you have flexed and checked that it isn't smacking into the corner of the tranny pan or exhaust or anything.) Also no issues with driving around without the front driveshaft installed if you won't be going offroad for a while.
Many people like trusses more than sleeves. Worth looking in to and comparing. You will also want to price alloy shafts and hd ball joints for if/when.
You can run without the flip and trackbar raise brackets, then add them later if you don't like the way it handles. I was at 4" for a few years before finally getting around to it.
Auto or manual? They have different gearing needs. Depending on current needs and setup, you may be better off gearing for the 37's now (if you 'know' you will end up with them) and living with higher rpm's for a while. Sure beats kicking yourself in the ass for under-gearing, or paying for it a second time.
As noted above, some early 07's came with d35 rear axles (build dates prior to Feb 07, I believe). 4.10 gears were an option for non-rubicon models in 07, as were rubicon axles/e-lockers. If you can, verify specifically what axles and what gears it has. If it has 3.21 gears, you will also need to replace the carrier in the front d30.
When you re-gear, consider adding lockers/limiteds at the same time. It saves a second labor charge since the axles are already ripped apart. (Truetracs are a very good price vs performance option if you don't need full lockers)
If you need to save money, you could try holding off on the front driveshaft until it is slinging grease. (Assuming you have flexed and checked that it isn't smacking into the corner of the tranny pan or exhaust or anything.) Also no issues with driving around without the front driveshaft installed if you won't be going offroad for a while.
Many people like trusses more than sleeves. Worth looking in to and comparing. You will also want to price alloy shafts and hd ball joints for if/when.
Last edited by nthinuf; 08-22-2014 at 10:20 AM.
08-22-2014, 10:41 AM
#12
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A shorter lift and flat flares will run 37's, so that is an option if you get talked out of the 3.5". But, if you want the 3.5", get the 3.5". Just be aware of the issues and what will be wanted/needed to correct them.
You can run without the flip and trackbar raise brackets, then add them later if you don't like the way it handles. I was at 4" for a few years before finally getting around to it.
Auto or manual? They have different gearing needs. Depending on current needs and setup, you may be better off gearing for the 37's now (if you 'know' you will end up with them) and living with higher rpm's for a while. Sure beats kicking yourself in the ass for under-gearing, or paying for it a second time.
As noted above, some early 07's came with d35 rear axles (build dates prior to Feb 07, I believe). 4.10 gears were an option for non-rubicon models in 07, as were rubicon axles/e-lockers. If you can, verify specifically what axles and what gears it has. If it has 3.21 gears, you will also need to replace the carrier in the front d30.
When you re-gear, consider adding lockers/limiteds at the same time. It saves a second labor charge since the axles are already ripped apart. (Truetracs are a very good price vs performance option if you don't need full lockers)
If you need to save money, you could try holding off on the front driveshaft until it is slinging grease. (Assuming you have flexed and checked that it isn't smacking into the corner of the tranny pan or exhaust or anything.) Also no issues with driving around without the front driveshaft installed if you won't be going offroad for a while.
Many people like trusses more than sleeves. Worth looking in to and comparing. You will also want to price alloy shafts and hd ball joints for if/when.
You can run without the flip and trackbar raise brackets, then add them later if you don't like the way it handles. I was at 4" for a few years before finally getting around to it.
Auto or manual? They have different gearing needs. Depending on current needs and setup, you may be better off gearing for the 37's now (if you 'know' you will end up with them) and living with higher rpm's for a while. Sure beats kicking yourself in the ass for under-gearing, or paying for it a second time.
As noted above, some early 07's came with d35 rear axles (build dates prior to Feb 07, I believe). 4.10 gears were an option for non-rubicon models in 07, as were rubicon axles/e-lockers. If you can, verify specifically what axles and what gears it has. If it has 3.21 gears, you will also need to replace the carrier in the front d30.
When you re-gear, consider adding lockers/limiteds at the same time. It saves a second labor charge since the axles are already ripped apart. (Truetracs are a very good price vs performance option if you don't need full lockers)
If you need to save money, you could try holding off on the front driveshaft until it is slinging grease. (Assuming you have flexed and checked that it isn't smacking into the corner of the tranny pan or exhaust or anything.) Also no issues with driving around without the front driveshaft installed if you won't be going offroad for a while.
Many people like trusses more than sleeves. Worth looking in to and comparing. You will also want to price alloy shafts and hd ball joints for if/when.
Thanks for the detailed reply!
It is an auto. And that's what I was thinking about when I mentioned running 5.13's with the thought that if I can get the power back to stock now, then that should be suitable for 37's maybe a couple years down the road. And I think the 315/75R16 will be good for me as my jeep will be mostly a DD. I don't wanna do 37's just yet. I'm sure I will the moment I put 35's on but for practicality purposes and price and performance all considered I think that size duratrac is going to be a good option for me. And I do know about the carrier. The kit I'm looking at comes with front and rear and a carrier and master install kit, due to the fact that my jeep will be arriving to me used. And I also thought about holding off on the driveshaft to save money. Might be worth it. Would holding off on the DS and getting trusses or gussets and sleeves be a better option? Thanks for all the replies!
08-22-2014, 11:06 AM
#13
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16" rims can limit future options for steering components and brake kits., And for 37" tires, there is a very limited selection compared to 17". (ask me how I know...) Just something to keep in mind.
For a 3.8 auto with plans for 37's, definitely go 5.13. If you somehow end up with a d44 front axle, consider 5.38's.
The d30 carrier is only needed if the axle currently has 3.21 gears. It will be wasted money if it has 3.73 or 4.10 gears. It will also be wasted money if you choose to add a full case locker/limited.
Gussets/sleeves/truss are things that you will never know if you actually need until after something is already bent. Flip a coin and decide if the money is better spent on them than a driveshaft. Personally, I have little respect for the stoutness of these front housings, but many people have beat the snot out of them and been fine. You also need to take in to account your planned usage, and add up all of the costs going in to that d30. You might find that you would be better off not putting a dime into it and just saving for a front 44 replacement.
Or, you might end up way ahead if you re-think the situation and find a rubicon instead. It would still need the same strength upgrades you are considering for the d30, but you would be starting with better d44 front axle internals and factory lockers, and a tcase with a better ratio.
For a 3.8 auto with plans for 37's, definitely go 5.13. If you somehow end up with a d44 front axle, consider 5.38's.
The d30 carrier is only needed if the axle currently has 3.21 gears. It will be wasted money if it has 3.73 or 4.10 gears. It will also be wasted money if you choose to add a full case locker/limited.
Gussets/sleeves/truss are things that you will never know if you actually need until after something is already bent. Flip a coin and decide if the money is better spent on them than a driveshaft. Personally, I have little respect for the stoutness of these front housings, but many people have beat the snot out of them and been fine. You also need to take in to account your planned usage, and add up all of the costs going in to that d30. You might find that you would be better off not putting a dime into it and just saving for a front 44 replacement.
Or, you might end up way ahead if you re-think the situation and find a rubicon instead. It would still need the same strength upgrades you are considering for the d30, but you would be starting with better d44 front axle internals and factory lockers, and a tcase with a better ratio.
Last edited by nthinuf; 08-22-2014 at 11:09 AM.
08-22-2014, 11:36 AM
#14
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16" rims can limit future options for steering components and brake kits., And for 37" tires, there is a very limited selection compared to 17". (ask me how I know...) Just something to keep in mind.
For a 3.8 auto with plans for 37's, definitely go 5.13. If you somehow end up with a d44 front axle, consider 5.38's.
The d30 carrier is only needed if the axle currently has 3.21 gears. It will be wasted money if it has 3.73 or 4.10 gears. It will also be wasted money if you choose to add a full case locker/limited.
Gussets/sleeves/truss are things that you will never know if you actually need until after something is already bent. Flip a coin and decide if the money is better spent on them than a driveshaft. Personally, I have little respect for the stoutness of these front housings, but many people have beat the snot out of them and been fine. You also need to take in to account your planned usage, and add up all of the costs going in to that d30. You might find that you would be better off not putting a dime into it and just saving for a front 44 replacement.
Or, you might end up way ahead if you re-think the situation and find a rubicon instead. It would still need the same strength upgrades you are considering for the d30, but you would be starting with better d44 front axle internals and factory lockers, and a tcase with a better ratio.
For a 3.8 auto with plans for 37's, definitely go 5.13. If you somehow end up with a d44 front axle, consider 5.38's.
The d30 carrier is only needed if the axle currently has 3.21 gears. It will be wasted money if it has 3.73 or 4.10 gears. It will also be wasted money if you choose to add a full case locker/limited.
Gussets/sleeves/truss are things that you will never know if you actually need until after something is already bent. Flip a coin and decide if the money is better spent on them than a driveshaft. Personally, I have little respect for the stoutness of these front housings, but many people have beat the snot out of them and been fine. You also need to take in to account your planned usage, and add up all of the costs going in to that d30. You might find that you would be better off not putting a dime into it and just saving for a front 44 replacement.
Or, you might end up way ahead if you re-think the situation and find a rubicon instead. It would still need the same strength upgrades you are considering for the d30, but you would be starting with better d44 front axle internals and factory lockers, and a tcase with a better ratio.
I think the idea of weighing the option of a driveshaft vs the gusset/sleeve/trusses kits is good. Maybe I'll just hold off on it. Most of my driving is going to be on the road. I don't plan on any extreme wheeling. I definitely think 5.13's are the way to go. And as for wheels and tires it all comes down to the fact I want something that'll be good on the road and off the road in winter and summer. Kind of an all season option and duratracs seem to be great. I live in the suburbs of Chicago so our winters can sometimes be nasty. For me it's all about the best bang for buck when it comes to tire options. And I think a D44 replacement is a little out of my price range for now.
08-22-2014, 04:13 PM
#16
JK Enthusiast
Your planned gearing would be just fine for 35s, but you mention going to 37s. You woupd then be undergeared. If you plan on 35s, 5.13 with the 3.8 is perfect. But 3.5 inches of lift will be too high. Do one or the other, but getting ready for something at one end and not at the other, is not logic. Do a 2 inch lift and 35s with 5.13, and if you ever decide that 37s are a must, maybe 1 inch coil spacers and/or trimmed fenders will allow the upsize. You'll still have 5.13, but hey. I am sure you would be very satisfied with 2 inch lift, 35 inch tires and 5.13s.
08-22-2014, 04:22 PM
#17
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Your planned gearing would be just fine for 35s, but you mention going to 37s. You woupd then be undergeared. If you plan on 35s, 5.13 with the 3.8 is perfect. But 3.5 inches of lift will be too high. Do one or the other, but getting ready for something at one end and not at the other, is not logic. Do a 2 inch lift and 35s with 5.13, and if you ever decide that 37s are a must, maybe 1 inch coil spacers and/or trimmed fenders will allow the upsize. You'll still have 5.13, but hey. I am sure you would be very satisfied with 2 inch lift, 35 inch tires and 5.13s.
The more and more I think about it. I think 37's are just too pricey and just aren't practical for a DD. 35's are about the top of the spectrum. So I think I'll stay with 35's for quite a while. Luckily the practical side of my head is working when it comes to the tires side of things. I still think I want that 3.5 of lift though. I really don't want to have to worry about rubbing when it's flexing or any of the other things that come with a shorter lift. I feel like if I have the 3.5 from RK it would allow me that extra room and also that ability to upgrade to any of the other RK kits. That being said...I know they have a 2.5 kit and I WAS considering it, but that extra inch really has my mind stuck on the 3.5. I mean, might as well get it now and have it, than want it in the future. Would there be any serious, I mean really serious, downsides to getting the 3.5 instead of a 2.5?
08-22-2014, 04:31 PM
#18
JK Enthusiast
Others will chime in for the 3.5, but lookwise, it will look wrong with too much space in the fenders. Why don't you do the 2.5 with 1 inch coil spacers. That way you get the height you want, and can fix the ugly by removing them when you see what I mean by overlift.
But it is your jeep..
But it is your jeep..
08-22-2014, 04:57 PM
#19
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I say get the 3.5" of lift. I love my height. These guys on here say it looks weird with the room, but I love the look of my Jeep.
I've got RC 4" springs (2 door), they netted me ~3" after winch and heavy bumpers. I also have a 1.25" BL. AND under all that I am running stock tires XD
I had 35" MTR/K tires for awhile. Loved them, but replaced with the stocks because I have a 50 mile commute (each way) every day. I had all the flex I needed.
I've got RC 4" springs (2 door), they netted me ~3" after winch and heavy bumpers. I also have a 1.25" BL. AND under all that I am running stock tires XD
I had 35" MTR/K tires for awhile. Loved them, but replaced with the stocks because I have a 50 mile commute (each way) every day. I had all the flex I needed.
08-22-2014, 04:59 PM
#20
JK Enthusiast
If you get the 2.5 kit and run 35s, you can always get the 3.5 springs later if you do decide to go to 37s. I have the 3.5 with 37s with flat fenders and IMO think its too much lift for 35s.