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Prep work for welding in Evo gussets?

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Old Jul 6, 2010 | 10:39 AM
  #11  
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Default Re: Prep work for welding in Evo gussets?

the spring sits on the upper gusset yes, causes no noise or problems.

I would ask your buddy who builds cages to come over and do it right, it would be a pain taking them off and doing it again. I am not a welder my buddy is and he didnt want to do it with his 110, we used my work shop and there new welders.
Ok thanks. I test fit mine the other day and could clearly see it would hit the spring. Thanks for making me feel better. Maybe the smart logical thing to do is have a pro do it. 110 should be fine for the front lca skids though correct??


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Old Jul 6, 2010 | 10:46 AM
  #12  
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Wow OK wants 395.00$$ to weld em!!! I almost fainted...

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Old Jul 6, 2010 | 11:18 AM
  #13  
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wow thats quite a bit of cash, go rent a 220 and plug it into your dryer outlet
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Old Jul 6, 2010 | 11:21 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by john smack
wow thats quite a bit of cash, go rent a 220 and plug it into your dryer outlet
yea ur tellin me... thats a good idea... idk what to do. i rather do it myself, but i dont want to doit twice..
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Old Jul 6, 2010 | 11:27 AM
  #15  
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Take the 110 and do some test on some 3/16 and see how the penetration is. Not all 110's are created equal.

with that said we only do it with a 220 welder. But if you have a 110 and know how to weld then I say go for it.

David
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Old Jul 6, 2010 | 11:34 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by Northridge4x4
Take the 110 and do some test on some 3/16 and see how the penetration is. Not all 110's are created equal.

with that said we only do it with a 220 welder. But if you have a 110 and know how to weld then I say go for it.

David
thanks dave..
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Old Jul 6, 2010 | 11:38 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Northridge4x4
Take the 110 and do some test on some 3/16 and see how the penetration is. Not all 110's are created equal.

with that said we only do it with a 220 welder. But if you have a 110 and know how to weld then I say go for it.

David
x2

I did mine 6 months ago with my 110 and they turned out fine. It has plenty of penetration to hold these on.

Take your time and weld slow just stay in the puddle longer you will be fine.

I key tip I got from Mel was to weld the front of the upper ball joint and then hit the back tab with a hammer when its hot. This folds that tab down and then it touches the upper C. I have checked a few other on the trails and mine were the only ones done this way.
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Old Jul 6, 2010 | 11:47 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by Wings fan
x2

I did mine 6 months ago with my 110 and they turned out fine. It has plenty of penetration to hold these on.

Take your time and weld slow just stay in the puddle longer you will be fine.

I key tip I got from Mel was to weld the front of the upper ball joint and then hit the back tab with a hammer when its hot. This folds that tab down and then it touches the upper C. I have checked a few other on the trails and mine were the only ones done this way.
i read this a while ago and have been keeping it in my head... so when u say hit the back tab u mean hit the area where the etch is?? or do u mean the actual back side of the bracket???
so the inside of the bracket will contact the c.
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Old Jul 6, 2010 | 12:14 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by rinkishJK
i read this a while ago and have been keeping it in my head... so when u say hit the back tab u mean hit the area where the etch is?? or do u mean the actual back side of the bracket???
so the inside of the bracket will contact the c.
I guess this would be alot easier to explain with a picture. Or I'll shoot you a PM and you can call be I can explain better on the phone than typing.
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Old Jul 6, 2010 | 12:19 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by Wings fan
I guess this would be alot easier to explain with a picture. Or I'll shoot you a PM and you can call be I can explain better on the phone than typing.
ur pm inbox is full... shoot me a pm.
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